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Author Topic: My new 1/32 layout  (Read 33846 times)
Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #30 on: July 28, 2013, 05:40:21 PM »

I was shocked to read that Kim would take a hammer to his diorama Shocked
Well from it ashes mine will rise up: as I continue, as always with me, I'm always starting new projects before I finish with one. Yes I am still building turnouts, but as part of my proposed downtown scene I need bricks and cobble stones, window ledgers and curbs, manhole covers, and drains and covers. I bought one of each of Diorama's Debris molds for 1/35 stones and bricks. I was enamored with the brick columns mold, but as of yet I can't get them out of the mold without braking them. I was not able to buy the correct hard plaster and I am adding glue to my Hydrocal in an attempt to make it stronger. Here are some results, How many bricks did Nick use? I can only mold 124 at a time, I'll be doing this for a while,..........
Gil   


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Gil Flores
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« Reply #31 on: July 28, 2013, 08:15:03 PM »

Why not use dental plaster?  You can get a 25 lb. box on eBay fairly cheap.
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Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #32 on: July 28, 2013, 09:17:07 PM »

that was my next avenue, the single bricks and cobblestones are no problem, but the grates and brick columns are. I'll have to go looking for some, any ideas? My dentist? he's a great guy! anywhere else
Gil
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Gil Flores
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« Reply #33 on: July 28, 2013, 11:09:36 PM »

I use casting plaster. Not sure of its strength but it has been working well casting bricks for the last three years. Your best bet for stronger materials are the building or mining industries.
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Ian Hodgkiss
The Steamy Pudding - an English Gentleman's Whimsy in 1:24 scale Gn15 (in progress)
On the Slate and Narrow - in 1:12 scale (coming soon)
Brisbane, Australia
lab-dad
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« Reply #34 on: July 29, 2013, 05:59:14 AM »

I have been using the regular plaster of paris from Home Depo in the large bag.
I dont find it brittle at all, but then again I',m working in a slightly bigger size.
-Mj
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finescalerr
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« Reply #35 on: July 29, 2013, 12:03:13 PM »

Does it have to be plaster at all? Remember that article by Jerry Kitts in one of my rags about using white modeling clay? -- Russ
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Gordon Ferguson
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« Reply #36 on: July 29, 2013, 12:30:53 PM »

I used resin for casting the DD gratings, if you have some iron powder you could mix that in with the resin .... When set drop into some salty water over night and real rust appears.

Although I used standard  polyurethane resin as I had some , you could use the standard two part epoxy glue or some polyester car filler  ........ Resins will shorten the life of those DD moulds but doubt if you will be casting 100's
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Gordon
Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #37 on: July 29, 2013, 03:50:25 PM »

Thanks everyone, Ian, MJ, Unc, and Gordo:
first I have found a place to buy cheep Dental Plaster, it says up to 2000PSI! It drys in 10-12 minuets. but it does need vibration.
Yea Gordo, I plan only a few, Resin is the answer for these very delicate molds, they are very detailed!
Unc, no I do not remember this Elder (Jerry Kitts) article on white modeling clay? I'll have to look for it?Huh
On to building walls and streets!
MPH
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Gil Flores
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Hi, I'm Kim.


« Reply #38 on: July 29, 2013, 05:39:36 PM »

mate
for this project you need a few brickies labours.great bricks.
kind regards kim
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Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #39 on: July 29, 2013, 07:03:19 PM »

I was just playing around with them, the heck with the laborers
I need my brain examined!  Cry Cry
How set the bar this high?
Damn Nick Angry
MPH
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Gil Flores
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« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2013, 01:33:30 AM »

Thanks everyone, Ian, MJ, Unc, and Gordo:
first I have found a place to buy cheep Dental Plaster, it says up to 2000PSI! It drys in 10-12 minuets. but it does need vibration.
Yea Gordo, I plan only a few, Resin is the answer for these very delicate molds, they are very detailed!
Unc, no I do not remember this Elder (Jerry Kitts) article on white modeling clay? I'll have to look for it?Huh
On to building walls and streets!
MPH

  MPH ,

  I use casting plaster that is 9000psi , which is what is needed when casting Spanish barrel roof tile and pantiles , but as you are not doing those then what you have should be good enough . You will find out when you start casting the brick strips . It should be perfectly possible to get them all out whole , if you are careful .

   You don't need great sacks of plaster . You would be better buying 1kg of top quality casting plaster than a whole sack of cheapo stuff . 

  I have successfully cast manhole covers using casting plaster . I haven't tried the drain grates yet . If you have resin then use that .

  Make sure you have read all they say on their website as it has lots of useful information .


  Yeah , and I love you too , Gil !

  Nick

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Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #41 on: July 30, 2013, 09:03:53 AM »

Thanks for the love!
I spoke to my son last night who's a Dentist, and he is sending me some samples, before I buy 38 pounds (10-12 kilos)
I have no problem with the stones curbs and single bricks, it's rows of bricks that I can't get out with out breaking, I've just been using regular Hydroacal from scenery express I got from my LHS. I'll try something harder and see what happens, as far as the grates go yes resin in the answer
Thanks
MPH
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Gil Flores
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« Reply #42 on: July 31, 2013, 05:19:26 AM »

Does it have to be plaster at all? Remember that article by Jerry Kitts in one of my rags about using white modeling clay? -- Russ

Russ,

I doubt that the DAS will work, and likely a good chance you will damage the mold or deform the bricks, trying to get the stuff into the corners of the individual bricks. The other issue with the DAS (or sim PaperClay or Celuclay type products) is that they have a very definite fierous texture...maybe less when pressed afainst a smooth mold surface. I can see that it works well for JK's rock molds, because you can flex press and manipulate those a lot, working the softened clay into the details....not so much with the small brick sized openings at 1/32 scale. Smiley  ....the other issue is trimming the exposed surface of the DAS....unlike with plaster, one can't easily scrape across the mold with a spaula or slick, to remocve the excess...because the DAS is Fiberous, and the way it dries, you pretty much have to cut it, and doing so you likely risk damaging the mold.
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I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

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M-Works
Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #43 on: July 31, 2013, 04:51:10 PM »

If Unc was referring to DAS than yes it would not work well with these molds.  I have used it with more flexible and shallower molds  and they come out great, but the way these are designed, pouring in would work better. I will have my dental plaster soon and see how it works.
Nick says 9000psi Woo
we'll see
MPH
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Gil Flores
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« Reply #44 on: July 31, 2013, 06:13:21 PM »

Nick is thick as brick....pay him no mind. Grin Grin
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M-Works
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