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Author Topic: Weathered Wood  (Read 34077 times)
marc_reusser
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« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2008, 01:47:51 PM »

Thanks for the support guys.  Will post if I have anything of value or possible interest. Will probably be more in regards to painting and finishing, or scenic (dio/display base type of stuff). It was a great relief to finally come to the conclusion...and it will save me the trip to Portland as well.

Marty....Hmm CHB......lets see now...a large mill/industrial boiler, a cat diesel engine, electrical generator , 2- Willamette Yarders, 1 Willamette loader, 1-2 AH&D two spool donkeys,.....some other stuff, and about 40-60 packets of detail parts (most logging related such as pulleys and sheaves, slackline carriages, and workshop tools, etc. etc.).......then theres boxes that I don't even remeber whats in them Grin........So do you think you can get that second mortgage on the house?  Wink Grin Grin .......I will probably hold on to this stuff, just in case in the future I get a hankerin' to build something using these (or parts from them).....especially since nobody will likely be making these again.


Marc
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« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2008, 03:05:19 PM »

 What about me  Shocked   
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Hmm CHB......lets see now...a large mill/industrial boiler, a cat diesel engine, electrical generator , 2- Willamette Yarders, 1 Willamette loader, 1-2 AH&D two spool donkeys,.....some other stuff, and about 40-60 packets of detail parts (most logging related such as pulleys and sheaves, slackline carriages, and workshop tools, etc. etc.

 Reading your decision is a bit of a shock while being away from home.  I long for my workshop, Friday home again.
I hope the discussion on the logging and lumber industry will not be stopped.

 regards  Jacq
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Belg
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« Reply #17 on: June 25, 2008, 03:17:20 PM »

Hey Marc, thanks so much for the detailed response. I did lightly prime both doors with a light tan color but I guess it was not opaque enough to get good coverage. The ideas for the coloring seem to make perfect sense once you know what they are. I really like the idea of pre-shading between the board but I think in HO that will be very though. I'll try a pin-wash after the wood has been painted.

This might be the time to break in the airbrush, and do some testing. What would you guys recommend as a good practice material that would give the same type of finish as styrene? I bought some styrene sheet the other day and that was not the cheapest thing in the world, maybe I'll try on some cereal box cardboard just to get my feet wet.

I to hope that you will post your modeling of choice right here as I always have appreciated your input and seeing your great work.
By the way Marc, I don't know if you have seen this link from Sierrawest about releasing the CHB line of machinery again.
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/machine.html
Thanks again,
Pat
« Last Edit: June 25, 2008, 03:22:28 PM by Belg » Logged
finescalerr
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« Reply #18 on: June 25, 2008, 08:59:54 PM »

The most readily available material for getting an airbrush finish comparable to styrene is laser printer paper. If you also want the same feel as styrene, try index cards.

Russ
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #19 on: June 25, 2008, 09:47:23 PM »

Pat,

For practicing the airbrush, you don't need styrene...plain old white poster board will do just fine for getting the hang of spraying different sized lines and different pressures. The only real difference is that on a porus surface yu are less likely to experience runs and such when shooting to wet or to heavy. zheck anything will work to practice on....many yogurt cups/ontainers for instance are a type of styrene.

To practice techniques for the doors, you could simply build a quick and rough sample door out of strips of 2-ply or 3-ply strathmore.....I would still primer it though...as this will help seal the strathmore...and give you a pretty sim base surface to work over with the paints.......another way to seal the strathmore prior to primer...is applying Grumbacher or sim. "Matte Varnish" (the type used by artists on their paintings; the turpentine clean-up stuff...not water)....this will/should effectively seal the strathmore from any later water based paints and washes.

Actually if you seal with varnish, you could for all intents and purposes build the test door out of a cereal box or "chip-board" (the type of board that the backs of pads of paper are made of).

Don't know if you recall, but all the paving stones and corrugated parts on my "out-of-the-box" project were painted cardboard and paper (the box the model came in, and the instruction sheet)


here's some pics of that:

Paper bucket


Paper Corrugated Roofing:


Paper coblestones, corrugated and other paper debris:




Jacq....No worries about the logging discussion and things, that will still go on. (BTW. there is a fantastic group of modelers...some of the best in europe and the world... that has regular (monthly?) open house/get-together in Arnheim. They are armor guys but that should not matter...techniques are techniques.....let me know if you are interested, and I can get you the info).


Marc
« Last Edit: June 25, 2008, 10:00:09 PM by marc_reusser » Logged

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Belg
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« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2008, 05:21:15 AM »

Marc, it took me a while to find that thread and all I can say is WOW, Shocked your WAY outside the box http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=62.30 and very far in front of me and most of us mortal humans with techniques that I never even heard of , no less tried. A wealth of quality information in that one thread alone, was this something that came about as a contest as you said they would have a problem with the putty being used? If you have time I would love to see more of these types of threads, were there many entries and do you have any pics of them?

I think the yogurt cup will be great practice, as my family eats thats stuff all the time. Is there a good book or reference material/primer/thread somewhere to read about airbrushing. I bought one book but not real happy with it as it dealt mostly with how to paint t-shirts. I keep meaning to buy some chipboard but my Michaels doesn't carry it, anybody know a place that would carry that and 3m 465 tape I would appreciate a link. Did the google search but keep coming up with places that will only sell you a case or charge $30 for a roll.

I have to say seeing that OOB thread has really opened my eyes to what Russ said in there, that as modelers we need to expand our thought process to include new and maybe strange techniques which might or might not work, but try and practice. I'm guilty of the copy the designers kits as a scratchbuilder and will try to do one in the near future which is from a real prototype and try to recreate all I see in the picture. I've seen SOOOO many times people say it takes so long to do this or that, what the rush its something you do for fun and relaxation, so to me the longer it lasts the better. Its not a race but a journey to get to a desired result.

Marc, I was on Mig forum this morning and have to say I love the content but just have a problem with the time things take to load (I have optimum online too/don't know how a dial up guy would fair)and for some reason on my computer some of the pics in the threads just don't show up. I have tried to go to my over ride features and let the forum post cookies and images but still no luck. Is there a really good IT guy out there that might be able to help me with this problem?? Sad

Is there a freeware out there for something like the cad program you mentioned, I'm just really interested in getting my feet wet and seeing if I have the ability to do this type of layout or will I have to resort to the pencil and invest in a large block of erasers.

If you guys haven't figured it out by now I have been revived  Grin to do some more modeling less BS'ing, and really appreciate any and all input, not just from Marc, so please feel free to post links and/or ideas, I know seeing the quality that Marc, Gordon, Chuck, Brian, Revelia and my buddy Karl Osolinki, just to name a few can be intimidating but we all have to start and learn somewhere. Thanks so much, Pat
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John McGuyer
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« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2008, 09:21:33 AM »

Marc,

Sorry to hear of your decision to diminish your participation in this forum. I have learned a great deal from your posts and want to thank you very much.

John
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chester
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« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2008, 05:46:08 PM »

Marc, I too am sorry to see such a wealth of information (and a great modeler) become less accessible to the forum. Please touch base from time to time.

I would like to recommend a source, especially in these coming days of election campaigning, many of the signs you will be seeing throughout our country will be made of styrene. A great opportunity to lessen the exposure of those you do not support and acquire some styrene sheets at the same time.
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« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2008, 06:35:43 PM »

Quote
I was on Mig forum this morning and have to say I love the content but just have a problem with the time things take to load (I have optimum online too/don't know how a dial up guy would fair)and for some reason on my computer some of the pics in the threads just don't show up. I have tried to go to my over ride features and let the forum post cookies and images but still no luck. Is there a really good IT guy out there that might be able to help me with this problem??

Pat

Sorry, I'm not the IT guy you're after, but FWIW the MIG forum does have problems with the number of users overwhelming the system. It works a whole lot better if you can manage to find a time when usage is lower. Many of the photos are linked from photo hosting sites and will disappear if the link changes. This is an ongoing annoyance with web forums – a good reason to save interesting threads when you see them.

Quote
I would like to recommend a source, especially in these coming days of election campaigning, many of the signs you will be seeing throughout our country will be made of styrene. A great opportunity to lessen the exposure of those you do not support and acquire some styrene sheets at the same time.

Trouble is, they're usually PVC rather than styrene. Solvent doesn't work so well on them, except to improve the signwriting.....
« Last Edit: June 26, 2008, 06:38:12 PM by Krusty » Logged

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marc_reusser
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« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2008, 03:17:46 AM »

Shucks...thanks for the concern Embarrassed Embarrassed...but I wasn't planning on quitting this forum.....just my modeling focus...and most all the other RR forums. Since it's Ok with Russ I will continue to post the new stuff...especially the techniques and finishing aspects.......it will just be up to the reader to look past the fact that it's not RR,m and decide where/how they could be implemented on RR stuff.

Pat....as krusty mentioned, there are server issues on the MIG forum. The forum has grown substantially over the years and With his proimary focus being his business, Mig is trying address the issue when possible.

Insofar as 2-D "freeware" drawing software I unfortunately can't say......for free 3-D drawing software with a really easy learning curve I would give Google "Sketchup" a try www.sketchup.com I use it for the 3D drawings that I used to show on RRl and that i have shown here. Printing to "scale" is a bit of an issue with it, as that feature is only available through a plug-in called "layout"...a feature of the "Pro" version....however with some forethought and messing with the print-out scaling on a copier or printer it is feasable.  The neat thing about the 3D software is that you get a good feel of what the building massing/proportions will look like.

Glad to see you getting backing in the modeling mood/spirit.....I always enjoyed your outlook, participation and work over on RRL.

Cheers,

Marc

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« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2008, 07:01:03 PM »

Marc

Now you tell us your not leaving the forum, after we all wrote you off Smiley
Thank God we sure would have missed all your humor and input.
Just kidding glad your going to still be with us, and after talking to Marty today he seems real happy that your staying!!

Jerry
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« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2008, 08:12:34 AM »

Marc, my son had  downloaded the sketch up program a while ago, I was trying to fool around with it and did not get very far. I'm thinking that I'll need to read some of the instructions/help pages and do some experimenting. Marc, I try to call a spade a spade if I don't like something I'm not going to stroke someone ego by saying it looks wonderful. I don't think people will get any better if you don't tell them so. This will only mean they will make more of the same quality since they were told it looked good. If its someone I feel comfortable with I will either email or PM them to try and help. Thanks again for your help. Pat

I don't know how many of you guys are familiar with Scotty Mason, and DVD series,  I  purchased his latest one with Brian Nolan as the instructor and he mentioned using graph paper to keep things aligned and build over but did not really elaborate, have any of you used a similar technique? I don't know how would you use it to build an interior stud wall and then make it disappear?? Pat
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Scratchman
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« Reply #27 on: June 28, 2008, 10:59:03 AM »

Pat
Graph paper is a great tool for model building. Tape down your graph paper wall layout to a flat surface, with a sheet of wax paper taped down over the top. Now you can glue the wall together and the glue will not stick to the wax paper. Use weights to hold down parts for gluing.T his will work in all scales and with most materials and glues.

Gordon Birrell 
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lab-dad
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« Reply #28 on: June 28, 2008, 07:17:40 PM »

Pat,
FWIW I do all my building on glass.
Nothing (really) sticks to it and I can place anything; plans, graph ect under it.

Brian Nolan?.....never heard of him.....

-Marty
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chester
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« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2008, 07:35:02 AM »

Pat,
FWIW I do all my building on glass.
Nothing (really) sticks to it and I can place anything; plans, graph ect under it.

-Marty

Ditto and when things are glued up, I place another piece of glass on top to weight things flat until dry but still see that I've kept the project square.
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