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Author Topic: Power Hacksaw (1/16th)  (Read 30924 times)
Malachi Constant
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« Reply #30 on: November 14, 2012, 04:17:19 PM »

Oooh! Shocked  Neat hinge-n-latch action ... nice contours on that base too!  -- Dallas
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-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
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finescalerr
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« Reply #31 on: November 15, 2012, 02:29:39 AM »

You know I hate it when you start with the metalwork. It always looks great ... and mocks my lack of skill. -- Russ
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lab-dad
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« Reply #32 on: November 15, 2012, 05:28:59 PM »



The feed raises and lowers the saw,
just like its supposed to.

Mj
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     Martin G. Jones Photography
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #33 on: November 15, 2012, 06:06:37 PM »

it's neat to see how this worked-I had never considered it.
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Malachi Constant
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« Reply #34 on: November 16, 2012, 12:30:34 PM »

Well, crap, that's nifty, clever & nutty all together!  Wink  -- Dallas
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SandiaPaul
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« Reply #35 on: November 17, 2012, 07:26:58 AM »

Hey and it's an upside down drill press too! Wink

Nice metal work!

Paul
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Paul
lab-dad
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« Reply #36 on: November 17, 2012, 05:00:57 PM »

Lol
I wondered who was gonna mention my drill
Or my prescision 9/32 pin.
Marty
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Scratchman
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« Reply #37 on: November 17, 2012, 08:23:11 PM »

Very nice work, Marty Jones.

Gordon Birrell

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NE Brownstone
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« Reply #38 on: November 21, 2012, 03:14:19 PM »

Lol
I wondered who was gonna mention my drill
Or my prescision 9/32 pin.
Marty

Christ.  Don't tell me you made that too!  Wink

I'm waiting for Marty to show us a picture of the engine he builds from his tiny machine tools.

On a side note, I used to own an old Hendy universal milling machine with a swiveling table that could be set up to make drill bits.  You needed a geared dividing head that would connect to the table's lead screw on the right hand side where the hand crank was located.  I never had that type of dividing head so I never got to try to make a drill bit.  Not like I really wanted to.  Cool thing about that mill was that All of the table's movements, including up and down were mechanically power fed complete with automatic stops.  Not just the horizontal table travel.  Pretty sweet for a machine that was built around 1920.  It was almost if not a dead ringer for Sierra West's milling machine.  It was a beast.  Even had a backgear for super slow hogging.  Alas, I no longer have it.
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Russ
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lab-dad
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« Reply #39 on: November 23, 2012, 12:41:27 PM »

Thanks Russ,
You had some great tools!
I just recently obtained a No. 0 hand operated
drill press. In the process of restoring it.
I would loce to have a few flat belt machines (1:1) someday.
Someday.....
Marty
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lab-dad
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« Reply #40 on: November 27, 2012, 03:55:11 PM »


Nothing earth shattering but did manage to finish the vice.



Works like it should, of course  Grin
More complex to solder up than I expected.

Now on to the handle!
Marty
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #41 on: November 27, 2012, 04:00:27 PM »

What do you use for soldering? torch, iron etc.
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lab-dad
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« Reply #42 on: November 27, 2012, 05:26:31 PM »

Chuck,
I usually "tin" with a gun then use a micro torch
to do the final joint.
I also have a pencil for finer work.
I really need to save up for a resistance rig (or build one)
but continue to make do.
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Lawton Maner
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« Reply #43 on: November 27, 2012, 08:49:06 PM »

After seeing the latest Modeler's Annual, I want the dental spot welder used to make the V&T Passenger Car handrails. 

You can make a resistance soldering center with a 12 volt car battery and a couple of carbon rods from the local welding shop.  I suspect I might be able to do the same with a couple of copper rods and a foot switch.

Maybe one of the mechanical wizards on the forum could lead the way.

We once "smoke tested" the controls on a friend's model railroad with a 12 volt car battery and burned up most of the cheap,yard sale push buttons he was using to control it's turnouts.  There is more then enough power in one to power a resistance unit or spot welder.
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lab-dad
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« Reply #44 on: December 02, 2012, 12:03:52 PM »

Construction is finished............sort of.



I see i forgot the bolts to hold it to the floor.
Also the pulley has been bothering me since I started.
I hope to find the right size raw material to make a new one in brass.
I'm thinking a 3/4" compression ferrule would be a good start.

-Marty

BTW; working on the big a$$ walls but going a lot slower.
Mj
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