Westlake Publishing Forums
December 05, 2019, 09:36:23 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:     REGARDING MEMBERSHIP ON THIS FORUM: Due to spam, our server has disabled the forum software to gain membership. The only way to become a new member is for you to send me a private e-mail with your preferred screen name (we prefer you use your real name, or some variant there-of), and email adress you would like to have associated with the account.  -- Send the information to:  Russ at finescalerr@msn.com
   Home   Help Search Login  
Pages: [1]
Author Topic: Seeking advice on metal primers  (Read 4242 times)
Jim Kottkamp
Offline Offline

Posts: 32

« on: October 15, 2012, 09:31:38 AM »

I primarily work with brass and would like recommendations for the best primer available to result in a scratch resistant finish coat.  I primarily use Scalecoat paints, if that makes any difference.
Hero Member
Offline Offline

Posts: 2083

« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2012, 12:24:06 PM »

For me media blasting the brass parts seems to provide the best "tooth" for primer.
I have never really had an issue with primer or paint adhesion but I dont treat the finished parts roughly.

For blasting I use an air eraser (air brush sized blaster) all the way up to a hand held canister blaster.
I usually use baking soda as the media but sometimes the stuff that came with the air eraser (aluminum oxide??).

Once blasted I blow the parts off and avoid handling them.

Hope this helps,

     Martin G. Jones Photography
    Go not where the path leads
Go instead, where there is no path,
           And leave a trail
Hero Member
Offline Offline

Posts: 714


« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2012, 02:13:11 PM »

Painting instructions for brass parts

After painting of brass parts, I always had the problem that the paint really should be permanently adhered to the brass. The presented method of me does a truly lasting connection between brass and varnish.

I paint often brass and make the following dimensions.

It is important that the parts are cleaned.
This example is clean with liquid cream cleaner and hot water. I own a blasting machine and ultrasonic cleaning bath, so of course this is less of a chore. For blasting I use aluminum oxide with grain 180, this roughens the brass on accordingly.

This box is cleaned after soldering.
Here's a picture after the scouring treatment, all flux residues are removed, but the parts are as polished and thus far too smooth for painting. I use the dishwasher to clean-up, in order to remove flux residues previously coarse, then it goes faster with the scouring. When I have worked with a brass brush and liquid scouring, it is clean and that is so clean that tap water does not bead up on it more, so it is also fat-free.

Of course, the brass are also roughed up.

I have a blast cabinet and when the parts are treated with compressed air and 180 grit aluminum oxide, I have nothing more to grind. Above all, the raised lettering are not damaged, and I come right to the corners.

My blasting cabinet.
There are a large and a small blast gun available. Top right, a vacuum cleaner is connected, which provides for low pressure in the cabin, when the lid is closed. Aluminum oxide with 180 grain is better than glass beads to prepare, because the brass is roughened by. Glass beads, however, are suitable as steel polishing agent.

This box is blasted finish in the beam system with aluminum oxide.
Then the parts are to be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath and all adherent abrasive particles.
Sun vorbereit I use the water dilutable Hammerite special primer that is reddish brown. It keeps so well that you can even scratch it, peel off without anything.
A primer for iron and is definitely not the most available primers are unfortunately only for iron. I mentioned the water dilutable Hammerite Special primer for zinc, aluminum and other non-ferrous metals is, in my experience really optimal. Take distilled water for dilution, perhaps it helps to add a drop of dish soap to the water is relaxed and spray thinner leaves.

Here I painted the mesh with the Hammerit-special primer.

Hammerite special primer allows optimum primer on bare non-ferrous metals such as zinc, aluminum, galvanized or stainless steel, brass and copper. This allows the adhesive base - so applied - use not only for brass.

In the final painting to my knowledge there are no restrictions or problems. I use 2 K colors, the are not a problem because the primer is water based.

My painting area with CANCELLING and additional breathing.
The compressor is in an adjacent room.

Here is a painted box
Commercial Model and Automobile paint should be use, without restrictions. The only exception that I have not tried it yet, could be pure nitro lacquers. But it's important to always work in thin layers.

Aged Box
Sun brand stay fresh boxes not. The models look more weathered and rusted from what I have modeled in this box.

Regards Helmut
the journey is the goal
Hero Member
Offline Offline

Posts: 5492

« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2012, 02:16:27 PM »

Excellent "clinic"! Thanks! -- Russ
Pages: [1]
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.13 | SMF © 2006-2011, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!