24 inch Engine Lathe in 1/16 (Finished!)

[lab-dad]

Well I have been sandbagging - as usual.
I like to get well into a project before I start a thread, just in case.
Anyway I have been working on this since the moment I finished my 1/35 adventure.

Next up is a lathe.
Specifically;
The 24 inch Eureka Engine Lathe
manufactured by Rahn-Mayer & Carpenter of Cincinnati, Ohio

I am using the C.H.B. Kit in 1:48 as my starting point.
The kit is available from Sierra West now.

When I looked at the 1:48 kit I was blown away by the detail Charlie had put in.
I think Charles H. Brommer was one of the FINEST model makers ever.
Anyway....Charlie's 1/48 kit had the faceplate threaded on to the drive!
It works so sweet! I had to do that. Mine is 3/8" 24 t.p.i.
I have no idea what the pitch is on the 1/48 scale model!

I had to keep up so I made the handle on the end of my tailstock move the tailstock in and out.
Just like a real lathe, hell it is almost as big as my Sherline I am using!!!
I'm not real happy about the handle on the tailstock, but it is a start.

Overall length is 10 5/8" (or just over 14 "scale"feet).



-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Well it's about time we saw some pictures.

I see your up to your usual standard of work.
And to make the parts movable excellent job there Mr. Jones.

Jerry

[Malachi Constant]

Good start!  Nice little handles on those lower cabinets. -- Dallas

[finescalerr]

No complaints yet from here in the peanut gallery. -- Russ

[mad gerald]

Marty,

Well I have been sandbagging - as usual.

... you're having us on ...  

Next up is a lathe.

... nice to see more of this big scale stuff, IMHO building in 1/16 scale is highly contagious ...  

[Chuck Doan]

Very nice. I agree with your comments about Mr. Brommer. I was also very impressed with the threaded spindle in that kit. 

[lab-dad]

Milling the face plate;


I was worried this would be much more difficult than it turned out to be.
Took about 20 minutes and some serious counting out loud to get the cuts the right length.
Also at 22.5 degrees apart for each slot .125" wide (the smaller slots @.100" 90 degrees apart done second)
Long ones are .800" long short ones are .500" long............



Unfortunately after doing some checking last night the whole thing is too tall.
Dont know how I buggered that up....I will be lowering the whole thing..........hopefully this is not the end.

-Marty

[Chuck Doan]

Do you mean the height of the head and tailstock? Many lathes were modified for a bigger swing so you might still be plausable.

[k27rgs]

I do a lot of lurking ( not in a perverted way    ) ..... on the WPF and blown over by all the projects.
Very much enjoying the machinery by this guy. 
The completed structure to house these items should be a doo-zee ( if I live long enough    )

tanks 

regards  "M"

[lab-dad]

Chuck
The overall height was the issue, thankfully it is a was now
Still dont know how I messed it up but the bed is now 18" lower, looks much better - pics soon.
Mario
Tanks! I hope I live long enough!

-Marty

[lab-dad]

OK
I wanted to make the "back gear" operable.
That is be able to pivot in and out of mesh with the gears on the main shaft.
This is how a "real" lathe works when you want to do threads and such.
Here are the gears arranged;


What I did for the shaft - to make it move.
Was solder a .093" tube inside the .187" shaft.
Then by using a .062" rod inside I can rotate the shaft to bring the back gears in and out of mesh.


Here is the issue;
How do I make the lever that normally moves it connect/work???
I just dont have the room (even in 1/16) to use the normal cam action.
The major problem is the shaft must rotate 180 degrees.
I'm thinking but hoping someone has an idea that might work.

Thanks!
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Excellent MJ!!!!!

But we heard you the 1st time

Jerry

[Malachi Constant]

Could the cam be a crescent attached to the edge of the sleeve around the inner shaft?  (IE, not necessarily have the donut that goes around the sleeve.  In other words, remove the donut from the cam and just use the lobe, if that makes any more sense?)  Sure you'll work it out ... damn cool project!  -- Dallas

[Junior]

Marty, when this is done what will the size be of the diorama inculding the loco etc.? Great work!

Anders

[SandiaPaul]

Marty,

Its hard to give an idea without seeing exactly how much room you have.  I can't see why the "real" mechanism would not work. It looks like you would have enough room to put an eccentric in there. Its just a disc(2, one per end) with 1 hole off center for the .062" rod you have. The disc rides in a hole you cut in the headstock "casting."  If you don't get it I can post a sketch.

A simpler solution is some lathes had a simple left to right sliding mechanism for the back gears. It may not be correct for the one you are making but it was done.

Nice work so far though!

Paul