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Author Topic: Back to the Big  (Read 187086 times)
marc_reusser
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« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2012, 11:29:09 AM »

Thanks for sharing the set-up pics. Looks like they printed the whole thing laying sideways, instead of vertical, as you set it up.

Re. the hose,  you could also consider soft neprene cord...the stuff that is like that Berkshire Valley "EZ-Line"...it is matte on the outside, and very soft/flexible and it is hollow (at least at the larger dim). I had some tthat I believe was used for holding the tags to some outdoor gear that I bought, but I know I have seen it at either a craft or fabric store as well (such as Michaels or Diane's Fabrics). I used some for 1/24 scale radiator hoses. What dia and length do you need? If I have enough left and it works, or if I run across some, am glad to send it for you to play with.
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« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2012, 12:11:51 PM »

Thanks Marc, I have to check the dimensions-still getting used to the conversions. Shapeways dosen't give the option for direction. When I got a quote from Finelines, horizontal was about 275.00 and vertical was 900.00! I guess it's a lot more print time.
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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2012, 12:34:12 PM »

Just a thought for the hose .......... you will know about using solder , useful as its soft available in a variety of diameters  and can be draped convincingly  but I find using standard electrical  heat shrink tubing  shrunk over it provides a suitable "rubberised" surface texture.

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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2012, 04:23:24 PM »

If you decide to release this as a shared printable item I would also be willing to pay for a printing or two...in 1/35 of course. (as well as any stipend/percentage to the creator for allowing usage).   Marc

Me too!  Or, I guess that's at least three now.  And, I can say with absolute certainty that if you're willing to share what you've done to this point, there's absolutely no worry about making you work out the final bits!  Having those pieces would be a great start!  (ie, no need for a "complete kit")

So , Chuck , you'll be needing one of these then , http://www.dioramadebris.co.uk/116-scale-german-standard-size-bricks-mould-1160027-19-p.asp ! Please don't do your brickwork in boring stretcher bond . I've tried telling Dallas not to , but does he listen ? Does he heck .

  Looking forward to seeing the latest instalment of your shed/garage frontage series ,

  Nick

That Dallas bloke is "Thick as a Brick" (doot-doot-dee-doo-dee-dee-doot) ... but gradually these things sink in.  Since I'm going with the clay approach on the side wall, there's no reason not to make some other stampers and mix up the bond a bit ... which, of course, doesn't really matter in Chuck's thread here ... so:

Chuck -- Regarding those brick molds:  I'm likely to order a few for future projects (thanks, Nick!) ... the price of a 1/35 wall mold is about $12 or so and the shipping on ONE mold is $16.  Bummer!  But, there are at least four molds that I'd like, and the shipping for FOUR molds is just a buck or two more ...

So ... if you decide you want the 1/16 brick mold, let me know and you can piggyback there ...

Cheers,
Dallas
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« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2012, 06:09:07 AM »

Dallas,
I ordered the 1/16 standard brick mold.
Should be here shortly, I will post when I get it and the trial runs.
-Marty

sorry chuck
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« Reply #20 on: August 06, 2012, 07:38:56 AM »

Thanks for the offer Dallas, I need to decide if I will try printing my bricks again.

I started experimenting with some peeling paint for my 1/16th scale wall. I was originally going to use the same techniques as on my Groveland garage, but after seeing Dallas’s beautiful crackle door, I decided to see if the Ranger crackle paint would work for this project. So far it looks promising. Here are samples of various peeling tests. These were done over a base of Silverwood stain; no additional wood detailing yet. These boards are just under a ˝” wide.








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« Reply #21 on: August 06, 2012, 08:45:39 AM »

Chuck,

... These were done over a base of Silverwood stain ...

... I wonder why you don't have the effect of a surplus of stain at the end of the strips, making the ends darker than the surface of the wood ...  Huh ... do you cut the ends off - after having applied the wood stain? Or is it a special effect of that silverwood stain? Do you use a saw or a cutter?
When I apply wood stain on wood strips I always get darker ends because the ends of the strips are a little frayed out and get soaked with stain easily ...

Cheers
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« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2012, 09:21:05 AM »

Sometimes that happens to me, but if I brush it on evenly and let the board dry laying flat (not standing vertically and resting on the end) then I usually don't get it.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 10:47:41 AM by Chuck Doan » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: August 06, 2012, 09:53:58 AM »

Chuck

That's some really nice peeling paint.  I'll have to go back and look at Dallas thread to see how he did his.

Do you just do your two or three coats of Silverwood then paint the crackle on and let it dry??  Or do you have to pick at it???

Jerry
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« Reply #24 on: August 06, 2012, 12:05:21 PM »

I started experimenting with some peeling ... Here are samples of various peeling tests. These were done over a base of Silverwood stain; no additional wood detailing yet ....

Crackle effects look great!  On a critical level, I see two distinct "colors" or "items" or whatever:  white paint & stained wood, each essentially monochrome.  For the amount of wear & tear on that paint, there should be variations in tones there ... (Stop to point out the obvious:  Chuck said it's an experiment & he's NOT done yet) ... and likewise with the wood.  So, as "hinted" a moment ago, I'm sure you're going to address all this stuff, but thought it useful for folks who get geared up to go just from these pix!  Grin

That's some really nice peeling paint.  I'll have to go back and look at Dallas thread to see how he did his.

Do you just do your two or three coats of Silverwood then paint the crackle on and let it dry??  Or do you have to pick at it???

Basically, the Ranger / Tim Holtz Distress Crackle paint which has been discussed on the forum a few times ...

Only thing I did slightly different was to do two layers of crackle ...
-- First layer:  browns & grays ... smears of brown crackle paint ... and smears of black & white mixed together ... then knife and flake that a bit ... idea there is just to have a little more "old color" show thru where the top coat cracks.
-- Second layer:  white ... with some diluted acrylic inks for coloring ... (Chuck will uses gwoshes and ear plugs and make that come out better!)  Wink

After the paint has "tack" dried, you can lightly score it ... or pick at it ... or hit it with tape ... or combinations there of.

Looking forward to more "BIG" stuff ... still remembering a good bit from the red 1:16 shed ...

Cheers,
Dallas
« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 12:13:01 PM by Malachi Constant » Logged

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« Reply #25 on: August 06, 2012, 01:35:04 PM »

Dallas is right, there is more to be done now that I am getting happy with the basic peeling.


Here are the current steps (why be simple?):
•   Apply 2-3 coats of Silverwood stain to the basswood strips and let dry.

•   Give the board a couple of heavy coats of Dullcoat spray and let dry.

•   Apply a coat of Ranger Picket Fence with flat brush. Let dry (and crackle)

•   Apply a second coat of ranger paint and let dry (for a whiter white).
 
•   Now place the board face down into a pan of acetone (Think of the Dullcote as lacquer hairspray. Extra extra hold)

•   After a couple of minutes remove the board and air dry.  Depending on how long it is in the acetone, the paint will be loosened from the board as the Dullcoat dissolves. The crackle seems to be enhanced as well. I used tape and X-Acto knife scraping to remove the paint. I lifted some with a flat knife to accentuate the peelingosity.

•   Follow up with another coat or two of Dullcote to tack the looser peels in place. If the boards aren’t handled too roughly, the lifted peels can be retained.

The thickness of the Ranger applications will determine the lifting of the paint. Thin coats peel too, but with less lifting. A heavy coat may look too thick depending on the scale. However, crackled paint is often thick in real life, so it may just be a matter of preference.

You should be able to do the acetone dip even days after doing the paint, no hurry. But the amount of time in the acetone matters. Leave it too long and you’ll have a bare nekid board surrounded by crackle floaters.

Other than maybe some slight warping (perfect for me), the acetone does not affect the wood or raise the grain.

Work with the acetone and Dullcote outdoors or in a spray booth with good ventilation.

I think this is more for larger scales, but maybe not. I will continue refining this and experimenting with coloring the exposed wood.



« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 01:40:09 PM by Chuck Doan » Logged

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« Reply #26 on: August 06, 2012, 02:02:52 PM »

Chuck said "I lifted some with a flat knife to accentuate the peelingosity."

I think you might have created a new word with 'peelingosity.'  I love it!

I also really like your peeling experiments.

Bill Martinsen
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« Reply #27 on: August 06, 2012, 02:04:08 PM »

I used tape and X-Acto knife scraping to remove the paint. I lifted some with a flat knife to accentuate the peelingosity.

Peelingosity?  Congratulations!  That's tonight's SECRET WORD ... and here's the birdy ...


* Groucho-secret-word.jpg (22.18 KB, 312x256 - viewed 2274 times.)
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« Reply #28 on: August 06, 2012, 02:35:46 PM »

Let's combine your techniques into an article on how to create peeling paint for the 2013 (next year's) Modelers' Annual. Those who have tried it, please send me an outline of your method and some hi-res photos. At the end, if everybody agrees to a common process, we'll propose that as the current "state of the art". -- Russ
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« Reply #29 on: August 06, 2012, 02:46:51 PM »

Chuck's method involves huffing both dullcoat and acetone, so it should have the most recreational value.  Grin  -- Dallas
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