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Author Topic: 19th Century Cornish Stable  (Read 74731 times)
granitechops
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« Reply #180 on: October 06, 2012, 04:39:14 AM »

#1 rest of boards now laid, these I only cut part through to simulate the end on joints

#2 nail holes impressed with a tool fashioned out of a jewellers screwdriver ground into a V shape as floor would have been nailed originally with cut nails as opposed to round heads, and a thin black wash applied to colour in holes

#3 barely noticeable from a distance, but that is the effect I wanted


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Don in sunny Devon, England
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« Reply #181 on: October 06, 2012, 12:27:51 PM »

Looking good!
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Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

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« Reply #182 on: October 06, 2012, 04:47:10 PM »

Glad to see this one is back.
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Ian Hodgkiss
The Steamy Pudding - an English Gentleman's Whimsy in 1:24 scale Gn15 (in progress)
On the Slate and Narrow - in 1:12 scale (coming soon)
Brisbane, Australia
granitechops
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« Reply #183 on: October 07, 2012, 11:45:17 AM »

I mentioned the unfortunate event with the broken window frame.  I usually try to make advantage of such miss-hapenings.
In this case, the scenario is as follows.
When the stable was built the upstairs was for storage of fodder & the stableboy/groom/mine apprentice's accomodation. As such he would rarely be using the upstairs in the middle part of the day, so it was felt by his master that ventilation by having opening windows, was a luxury not befitting his station, when needed ventilation would be acheived by opening the door to the steps. But that was some hundred & fifty years ago, somewhere in between then & now  an opening part was made to fit in the space of 2 panes to improve ventilation for those with greater expectations.

In the model this was done by using styrene 3mm square bar to fabricate the opening, this was exactly the same size as the original glazing bars.





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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #184 on: October 07, 2012, 11:50:46 AM »

I used mainly 3mm solid square bar, but had a bit of 3mm hollow square styrene that I used for the hinge stave, thus a bit of copper cooker wire could be used as the hinge.
All I have to do now is work out how to drill the main frame in that short space & keep the hole vertical





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« Last Edit: October 08, 2012, 12:54:41 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #185 on: October 07, 2012, 11:58:10 AM »

I mentioned that I could not slide the upper floor out, as you can see the slots that the floor joists fit into preclude that, also the floor extends to the side in behind the main carcase corner fillets. So it has to slide out upwards, that of course raises another challenge, as I want to have the roof with all its beams & rafters as a separate unit

Edit, although that front floor joist is not prototypical, being close up to where the front wall will be, it is neccessary for structural integrity of the main carcase


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« Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 07:25:50 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #186 on: October 08, 2012, 01:56:01 AM »

Similarly the larger (bottom) of the two apex beams is neccessary to maintain shape of gables, the top smaller "beam" will be the apex of the removable roof unit.

you may also notice the gap between the upper & lower modules to represent the thickness of the stone wall, without adding too much weight, which would be the case with a solid wall in this scale


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« Last Edit: October 15, 2012, 01:59:03 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
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« Reply #187 on: October 08, 2012, 02:11:31 AM »

This has turned into a fairly complex model, hasn't it? -- Russ
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granitechops
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« Reply #188 on: October 08, 2012, 02:48:08 AM »

The challenges involved make it all the more interesting.

I always take more pics than I need, scanning through I found this one that epitomises what I remember as a kid, the lack of window & light is just as it was


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #189 on: October 08, 2012, 05:49:54 AM »

By using a pin drill, I managed to make two holes for the hinge pins,

I then realised that one piece of wire would be too long to feed in from top end without kinking, so had to resort to two separate bits

#1  shown here dry run.

 this gave a problem with the top pin, if I put it in from the top it might just drop straight down inside frame, and if I laid it on its side instead I might still have a problem with the super glue wicking into the hinge joint & the whole lot seizing up
so I formed a crook in the end of the pin so as to have it locate into a side hole in the main window frame

#2 close up of top pin ( which kills two birds with one stone as the mullion to frame butt joint here is a bit weak or poor workmanship!)


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« Last Edit: October 09, 2012, 03:04:50 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #190 on: October 08, 2012, 06:05:20 AM »

So bottom pin was glued in place & allowed to dry thoroughly, then casement placed & top crooked pin inserted & carefully one drop of super glue in the hole to locate the crook securely

#1  open window

#2  Now with working window catch

MUST REMEMBER to close window BEFORE lifting top floor section out or opening casement will get ripped off   Embarrassed

Edit; may replace that window catch, looks a little coarse


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« Last Edit: October 08, 2012, 06:18:44 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #191 on: October 08, 2012, 01:21:02 PM »

#1 new shape window catch, you see the shape better while still in copper

#2 & painted black

#3 Tried to 'tool' the floor joists to show ancient, more rustic timber
dont think I have quite achieved what I had in mind


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #192 on: October 10, 2012, 04:42:27 AM »

Started on the floor section in the far back corner by the brick chimney.
Interesting exercise, includes trapdoor & shaping around chimney stack to carry joists


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #193 on: October 10, 2012, 06:40:23 AM »

Idly playing with camera after debris from working built up on model


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« Last Edit: October 10, 2012, 06:41:59 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #194 on: October 14, 2012, 01:45:12 PM »

#1   View of floor sub unit from underneath

#2  sub unit in place,
 bow saw permanantly fixed to wall,

was also going to have this section removable, but decided it was not neccessary
will make it easier to place removable roof unit


loft ladder made up but not yet fixed




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Don in sunny Devon, England
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