19th Century Cornish Stable

[granitechops]

Marry the 2 together
times 4

[granitechops]

Add various sizes of styrene tube,
plus a brass bezel from a ship fitting
glue & paint

[granitechops]

fit into block,
at first it did not look right
& then I realised normally the distributor seems further down when the cylinder head & the rocker cover are in place
probably adds another 9-10 ins to the height
down the right side are the studs to hold the petrol pump
still a work in progress,
pics show the need for tydying up joints & faces plus more details

[Malachi Constant]

Neat!  I like the approach to building the open cylinder block.  -- Dallas

[granitechops]

Neat!  I like the approach to building the open cylinder block.  -- Dallas

Thanks, yes much easier & neater than drilling holes in a solid ( well, with my resources)

I found this enlightening

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LauE0W2UZe4

( Simplified explanation!!!!! )
Build sand castles, group them together & pour molten metal around them

[Gordon Ferguson]

Don, neat........ But and you will hate me for this, you need 5 leads for the distributor, 4 to the plugs and 1 HT lead to coil

[granitechops]

Don, neat........ But and you will hate me for this, you need 5 leads for the distributor, 4 to the plugs and 1 HT lead to coil

Not at all Gordon, there is also the LT lead, and the disc on the side, Diapragm?? adjuster?
I was vaguely trying to do an engine for an Austin A35, but the sump is a different shape, and the distributor cap on that had the HT leads coming out sideways,
I think going from memory the one I did was more like the Ford transit ones, that I had many more years experience with, having driven them from the very first pickup they made
This may end up under the bench as clutter as a generic anonymous breed!!
At least I have learnt something along the way, enjoyably so.

[granitechops]

Coil- distibutor lead added, plus plug tops on end of leads, you can just see the LT lead coiled up, surface joints filled & painted, needs weathering, could really do with more casting webs etc, & disributor needs finishing

[granitechops]

After a "summer" of inside modelling inactivity, I finally got back to the Cornish Stable. As mentioned previously I want to maintain easy access to the ground floor for scene setting/ workshop photo shoots, but because the upper floor( 1st floor UK speak) has the floor beams exposed with no ceiling below it, could not see how to acheive that as it would not slide into position, but more about that later.

Joists in place in slots cut in top of support wall

[granitechops]

So I first concentrated on laying the floorboards, 

#1 boards for comparison as cut on table saw, and after a wash with very dilute acrylic black with a touch of red brown earth


#2 which when turned over gave this effect from creepage, but this will add variation when the top side is washed with a touch more brown in it

[granitechops]

After gluing in place & lightly sanding, with 144th scale stable for comparison

initially cutting some to normally usable lengths as individual planks, the chippy using up all usable offcuts, this was an economy build originally.

So economy, that when someone cut two planks too thin
( thinner than two thick planks, obviously   )
they too got pressed into use

[granitechops]

With some of the floorboards glued in place the whole floor could be lifted out of the main building, & the end INTERIOR gable wall fitted in place being glued to a fillet of wood ripped out of a piece of unused parquet flooring that I had had kept back for 42 years, well seasoned, a very dark red/brown colour, the gable being a lamination of hardboard & strong card from a jigsaw puzzle box

then back into place to align window openings in back walls, inside being wider than outside to acheive splayed angle for max light entry

[granitechops]

#1   Back wall with strip framing, & window fabricated out of ex dolls house mullions ( glazing bars) with outside frame cut out of surplus doorframe, dolls house again,

#2 close up of framing  to save cutting a wider piece for the angle, I chose to use pieces of all same width, skin of inside wall would cover it.

#3 framing on ouside of inside wall, joints very casual butt ones, jigsaw puzzle box card again, must be nearly 2mm thick

[granitechops]

#1 gluing inside skin of INSIDE wall into place
you are keeping up arent you?  

#2 card filler for inside window wall seat?

#3  and in place

[granitechops]

#1  while giving a coat of colour to walls, my clumsy fingers eliminated a glazing bar  
 so now that changes the buildings history, but more later

#2  fitting side trims to outside of OUTSIDE wall on main stucture
and window cill ( cill in styrene as wood might split with rough handling)

#3  Stone lintel over this window needs altering, which will get done when final outside finish is applied here, which will also cover wood side trims to simulate stone