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Author Topic: 19th Century Cornish Stable  (Read 74736 times)
granitechops
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« Reply #165 on: May 05, 2012, 02:58:55 PM »

Marry the 2 together
 times 4


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #166 on: May 05, 2012, 04:04:34 PM »

Add various sizes of styrene tube,
plus a brass bezel from a ship fitting
glue & paint


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #167 on: May 05, 2012, 04:11:08 PM »

fit into block,
at first it did not look right
& then I realised normally the distributor seems further down when the cylinder head & the rocker cover are in place
probably adds another 9-10 ins to the height
down the right side are the studs to hold the petrol pump
still a work in progress,
pics show the need for tydying up joints & faces plus more details


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Don in sunny Devon, England
Malachi Constant
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« Reply #168 on: May 06, 2012, 12:41:22 PM »

Neat!  I like the approach to building the open cylinder block.  -- Dallas
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-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com
granitechops
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« Reply #169 on: May 07, 2012, 03:26:03 AM »

Neat!  I like the approach to building the open cylinder block.  -- Dallas
Thanks, yes much easier & neater than drilling holes in a solid ( well, with my resources)

I found this enlightening

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LauE0W2UZe4

( Simplified explanation!!!!! )
Build sand castles, group them together & pour molten metal around them
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Don in sunny Devon, England
Gordon Ferguson
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« Reply #170 on: May 07, 2012, 05:43:39 AM »

Don, neat........ But and you will hate me for this, you need 5 leads for the distributor, 4 to the plugs and 1 HT lead to coil
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Gordon
granitechops
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« Reply #171 on: May 07, 2012, 07:11:30 AM »

Don, neat........ But and you will hate me for this, you need 5 leads for the distributor, 4 to the plugs and 1 HT lead to coil
Not at all Gordon, there is also the LT lead, and the disc on the side, Diapragm?? adjuster?
I was vaguely trying to do an engine for an Austin A35, but the sump is a different shape, and the distributor cap on that had the HT leads coming out sideways,
I think going from memory the one I did was more like the Ford transit ones, that I had many more years experience with, having driven them from the very first pickup they made
This may end up under the bench as clutter as a generic anonymous breed!!
At least I have learnt something along the way, enjoyably so.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2012, 07:13:53 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #172 on: May 08, 2012, 01:40:56 PM »

Coil- distibutor lead added, plus plug tops on end of leads, you can just see the LT lead coiled up, surface joints filled & painted, needs weathering, could really do with more casting webs etc, & disributor needs finishing


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #173 on: October 06, 2012, 03:05:56 AM »

After a "summer" of inside modelling inactivity, I finally got back to the Cornish Stable. As mentioned previously I want to maintain easy access to the ground floor for scene setting/ workshop photo shoots, but because the upper floor( 1st floor UK speak) has the floor beams exposed with no ceiling below it, could not see how to acheive that as it would not slide into position, but more about that later.

Joists in place in slots cut in top of support wall



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« Last Edit: October 06, 2012, 03:17:07 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #174 on: October 06, 2012, 03:16:23 AM »

So I first concentrated on laying the floorboards, 

#1 boards for comparison as cut on table saw, and after a wash with very dilute acrylic black with a touch of red brown earth


#2 which when turned over gave this effect from creepage, but this will add variation when the top side is washed with a touch more brown in it


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #175 on: October 06, 2012, 03:28:08 AM »

After gluing in place & lightly sanding, with 144th scale stable for comparison

initially cutting some to normally usable lengths as individual planks, the chippy using up all usable offcuts, this was an economy build originally.

So economy, that when someone cut two planks too thin
( thinner than two thick planks, obviously  Grin )
 they too got pressed into use


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« Last Edit: October 06, 2012, 03:44:23 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #176 on: October 06, 2012, 03:42:36 AM »

With some of the floorboards glued in place the whole floor could be lifted out of the main building, & the end INTERIOR gable wall fitted in place being glued to a fillet of wood ripped out of a piece of unused parquet flooring that I had had kept back for 42 years, well seasoned, a very dark red/brown colour, the gable being a lamination of hardboard & strong card from a jigsaw puzzle box

then back into place to align window openings in back walls, inside being wider than outside to acheive splayed angle for max light entry


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #177 on: October 06, 2012, 04:06:12 AM »

#1   Back wall with strip framing, & window fabricated out of ex dolls house mullions ( glazing bars) with outside frame cut out of surplus doorframe, dolls house again,

#2 close up of framing  to save cutting a wider piece for the angle, I chose to use pieces of all same width, skin of inside wall would cover it.

#3 framing on ouside of inside wall, joints very casual butt ones, jigsaw puzzle box card again, must be nearly 2mm thick


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Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #178 on: October 06, 2012, 04:14:48 AM »

#1 gluing inside skin of INSIDE wall into place
you are keeping up arent you?  Cheesy

#2 card filler for inside window wall seat?

#3  and in place



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« Last Edit: October 06, 2012, 04:17:00 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
granitechops
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« Reply #179 on: October 06, 2012, 04:29:06 AM »

#1  while giving a coat of colour to walls, my clumsy fingers eliminated a glazing bar   Roll Eyes
  so now that changes the buildings history, but more later

#2  fitting side trims to outside of OUTSIDE wall on main stucture
 and window cill ( cill in styrene as wood might split with rough handling)

#3  Stone lintel over this window needs altering, which will get done when final outside finish is applied here, which will also cover wood side trims to simulate stone



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« Last Edit: October 06, 2012, 04:40:48 AM by granitechops » Logged

Don in sunny Devon, England
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