Kingfisher a gaff rig pilot cutter

[marc_reusser]

Just lovely. Brings me a smile and warm feeling when I look at it.

Marc

[gfadvance]

Looking superb Michael !!!

Wish my workshop, well actually "bench" looked half as tidy..........and it's only 5% of the size of yours.

Really glad you started the other side, as even with the strength of the ribs you fitted was starting to worry that the hull may get pulled out of shape.

Oh and I like the 1/2 hull above the window as well

[finescalerr]

Utterly disgusting. -- Russ

[granitechops]

Well, Michael, you certainly got a project thats going to need dedication ( & focus ) to see through to completion!!

looking GOOD

Perhaps I missed it, but what is the length over all??

[michael mott]

Hi Marc, thanks for the encouragement. By the way how is your own maritime model coming along?I hope you haven't given up on it.

Gordon, I am really working hard at keeping things tidy, old habits die hard and I am a slob to be honest, that said there is a lot of merit to being able to find the right tool right when you need it instead of the (now where did I put that tool, bubble over my head) frantic search for it under a pile of assorted detritus that seems to accumulate as we build.

Russ I totally agree!! absolutely disgusting I don't even know why I continue with this charade called modelbuilding!  When I could be hard at work greeting folks at the Walmart door

Don, yes it does seem to get bigger by the day. Don over all the hull will be 63 inches with a additional 24 inches for the bowsprit. The mast will be 80 plus inches. By the way the last time I was in the UK Judy and I spent some wonderful days on the north coast of Devon. When I was a kid we used to go to North Devon for our summer holidays, Linton and Lynmouth, Coombe Martin, Poorlock hill with its 1 in 4 grade always gave my Dad the willies, probably something to do with an old 1939 Ford 10 cwt van with poor brakes. and thanks for the compliment on the boat.

Anyway back to the boat.

the planking continues and while waiting for the glue to dry I have started to make the planking for the second layer, this will be pine and 1/16 inch thick. the first Cedar layer is a bit higgledy piggledy with plans that are all aver the map as far as consistency goes regarding the widths. The second layer will be more clean and will be more prototypical regading the widths and overall appearance.
 


I cut up some 1x8 pine into 24 inch lengths and then stripped it up into 1/16 thick planks one 24 inch length yielded 100 lineal feet of planking.



I cut a few other offcuts into some thinner planks for some other projects down the road while I was at it.



I did a little test with some tiny model aircraft rivets just to see how it would look.



and the difference between the # 68 drill in the pin vice and the dental pick was negligible as far as preparing the wood for the rivets.



so this is where we are at regarding the cedar on the hull.





I'm off to Jasper national Park for the Libraries conference tomorrow so no work on the boat for a couple of days, just communing with the mountains and doing a bit of poetry and watercolour painting.

Michael

 

[michael mott]

The Libraries conference was wonderful.

It was held in this environment, well not exactly here but very close by.



The picture is looking toward the original site of "Jasper House" a trading post in the 1800's

Anyway back to the boat, I was asked to explain how I went about making the planks. I hope that this helps to explain the steps. I must premise by saying that I make the saw inserts from MDF and bring the blade up through the insert to create a zero tolerance gap.



First I set up the saw to make the first cut on the plank. This creates the first clean edge on the store bought board.



I am using a hollow ground finishing blade with a zero set on the teeth, I set it about 1/16th above the thickness of the wood.and take a first cut to remove the commercial edge of the plank.



After the first cut, I have indexed the plank over so that the next cut will produce the planks for the model, to the thickness that I want. This might take a couple of cuts to get just the right thickness.



Next I mark the insert along the edge of the board with a hard pencil to have a line to move the board to. the indexing of the board each time, might at first seem like a lot of work, however with a little practice it is the only way that I have found to produce consistent results safely.


The wood is then pushed through and the plank falls away

Index over to the line and repeat until the board is down to about 1/2 inch, I use push sticks while pushing the board through.I hope this answers the question.

Michael

 


   

[marc_reusser]

That is some patience and dedication. thanks for the SBS.

Question though, instead of the pencil mark, why not clamp a stop to the table at the front edge...before the blade, tha you can just then push the wood to be cut, up against?  Looks like you could even just screw or fasten one to the MDF insert.

[lab-dad]

I was going to suggest a removable "pin" as you would not want to saw with something in place.
-Marty

[W.P. Rayner]

Looks like it's working well for you Michael. The removable registry pin or stop is an excellent idea, put it in place long enough to set your fence then remove it before cutting. You definitely don't want a fixed stop, or you risk being speared on kickback. After cutting, do you then run the planks through a planer for final sizing?

Paul

[michael mott]

Marc, Marty, Paul, thanks for the feedback, regarding some form of indexing stop, For the reason that Paul articulated kickbacks are something i have some nervousness about. Some years ago I was cutting some maple strips the section was approx 5/8 x 1/4" it kicked back I was standing just to the side enough that the wood passed me and landed on the table behind me, the sick was stopped by a gallon paint can I went to pick up the stick and found that it had penetrated the paint can right though and was leaking paint now on the opposite side.

My saw is an old one and the fence is a little finicky but I am used to it now. The eye is a wonderful measuring tool with a little practice.

Paul to answer your question, no The thickness is within a few thousands mostly and the odd one that is either too thick or thin goes into the odd pile. once the planks are glued they will need a little fairing anyway so I am not too worried about a few thou on this one. the blade leaves a smoother finish on the side of the large plank(which becomes the outside of the thin cut plank) and a slightly rougher finish on the blade side of the thin cut plank. I think it is most likely due to the more flexible nature of the thin planks.

Michael 

[W.P. Rayner]

Sounds good Mike. Looking at your cut stock, they all looked very clean, so you obviously know what you're doing with a table saw.

Yes there's nothing like a cut off coming at you at several hundred feet per second to get your attention. Kickback is something to be avoided at all costs, even on the miniature saws, it can do some damage.

Paul

[Belg]

Micheal, thanks so much for posting the how to. I found a video on you tube which is really very close to a couple of the suggestions and think I will give it a try. Pat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM

[michael mott]

Haven't done much lately Still waiting for Carpel Tunnel Surgery. Waking up with pain in hands and middle finger on left had numb all the time, when things improve I will get back to the last two planks before moving on to the pine planks after the black cotton coating. I did get out sailing this evening and we came in second in the pursuit race. I was on the sheets, low wind so it was not too difficult.

Michael

[lab-dad]

Michael,
I have had CT surgery done 3 times on different spots.
I never wait anymore, do it as soon as I can schedule it!
You'll be back to working in less than a week!
Cant wait to see her finished!
-Marty

[michael mott]

Hi Marty, that is encouraging. I hope that I don't need more than one though. My surgery happens on the leFt hand on October 18th and on the right hand on November 15th.
In the meantime I have managed to do a little bit on the boat.



I did finish the planking of the cedar, I was originally going to do a second layer of planking. I have changed my mind and am pursuing a plan that will see the hull finished with a few layers of enamel to make it waterproof.



I will be using multiple layers of enamel to make the hull fair alternating between dark blue and white and using automotive spot filler as needed







Michael