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Author Topic: Painting advice  (Read 4310 times)
Hauk
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« on: October 10, 2011, 01:21:22 PM »

Some of you might remember my boxcab electric from another thread (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=493.0).

The last big hurdle is painting the tincan. I have startet to experiment with paints and primers, and I will ofcourse post my findings eventually.

But I would also like inputs on how to paint and weather.

Here is an image of almost exactly the paintscheme and condition I want to replicate:



So the question is, how would you best tackle this finish?

Best regards,
Haavard H.
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Regards, Hauk
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”Yet for better or for worse we do love things that bear the marks of grime, soot, and weather, and we love the colors and the sheen that call to mind the past that made them”  -Junichiro Tanizaki

Remembrance Of Trains Past
marc_reusser
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« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2011, 02:19:15 PM »

Can we assume that you will be wanting to handle and operate the loc, so it will need a durable paint finish?

The more sublte finishes and textures such as the scuff marks and wear areas in the "chalky" dust/rainwashed finish will be slightly harder to achieve, though not impossible, as the above need, will pretty much require at least a satin sealer coat when painting is done.

What brand/type of paints do you see yourself, or prefer using for the painting? This is important, because of the type..oil or acrylic...each behaves differently and could require different subsequent layers.

My first impression on doing this would be using Humbrol oils for the base colors [including panel fading, CM..or a variation thereof for panel differentiation, etc.], satin acrylic sealer coat, Humbrol oil paints, or some pre made finishes, for rain marks, pin washes, dust, rust and grime (may possibly need a sealer coat between one or several of these, depending on your technique/application method), then a clear satin or low sheen sealer coat (almost matte would be better, but that depends on your concerns about handling).

The loco is pretty clean and well maintained...only shows regular wear and exposure to the dust and grime, using pigments for such things as dust and rust  could be kept at a minimum...most could be done with an AB or paint brush.

Marc
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M-Works
Hauk
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« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2011, 02:40:50 PM »

I have experimented with Tamiya Gloss paint thinned with laquer thinner. My plan is to apply this over an etch primer that have been reccomended for use on brass models. So I have to work out a formula for the blue and red that can serve as the base coats.

By the way, Tamiya goes through the airbrush like a charm when thinned with laquer thinner, and it levels out really nice.

As for the state of the engine, the blue is quite faded, and if you look closely you can see rain streaks quite clearly. The blue is also somewhat uneven in tone, so modulation or fading with oils might be the way to go. And I certainly want to err on the dirty side!

As you write, getting a durable finish is part of the challenge. The engine will not receive rough handling, but It will be operated and moved around a bit. And brass is not the easiest metal to get paint to stick to.

The thing I am really wondering about is the wisdom of using a blackening solution as a "primer". Martyn Welch, an extremly talented british modeller advocates this, and he should certainly know what he is doing. Check out mr. Welch´s work, you will not regret it: http://www.martynwelch.com/

Yesterday I blackened my pantographs, and by using a very diluted solution (around 1 part of Birchwood Casey brass blackening to 8 parts of water) and brushing on several coats I avoided the black powdery stuff that oftens form on the surface of the metal. This was  a really slow technique, but it seems to have paid off.

So I have to do some tests with Tamyia over primer vs. Tamia over blackened metal. Hopefully, I will also get my blaster setup going soon, I feel that blastering some of the brass components might be the way to go.

I´ll keep you posted!


« Last Edit: October 10, 2011, 02:42:44 PM by Hauk » Logged

Regards, Hauk
--
”Yet for better or for worse we do love things that bear the marks of grime, soot, and weather, and we love the colors and the sheen that call to mind the past that made them”  -Junichiro Tanizaki

Remembrance Of Trains Past
marc_reusser
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« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2011, 03:08:47 PM »

IMO the fact that you are wanting/willing to use Tamiya makes the whole process far and steps far easier to do.

The chalky fading effect, and slightly varied panel tones, is easily done during the inital paint steps, and then can be accentuated/enhanced/adjusted using artists oil filters, and artist oil panel fading/shading. Rain streaking can then be done using acrylics or oils (depends whose which method you feel more comfortable with, and what material you used in the previous painting/weathering step. Dust and grime can be done with a mix of paint from the AB, and pigments.

Now it just comes down to what "tricks"/techniques  (IE: pre-shading, post, shading, CM, etc.) or combination thereof you want to employ, and then sequencing them properly, in order to get the look you're after.

I don't know anything about prepping brass for paint (other than some PE pieces)...but in those instances where I have used 'blackener' for small brass parts, I have had issues with primer/paint adherence, and regretted using it. This blackening though was likely far different from the etching type you are doing.


Marc
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I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works
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