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mad gerald
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« Reply #135 on: May 08, 2012, 04:50:03 AM » |
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I've never used it but maybe Photoshop Elements would allow you to do one or two of those things ...
... I suspect PSE can do a lot of this; ... As my Photoshop is not compatible with my actual OS anymore, I gave Photoshop Elements a try ... IMHO (I'm not a professional PS user) PSE is basically similar to PS and I would recommend it ... HTH Cheers |
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lab-dad
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« Reply #136 on: May 08, 2012, 06:00:27 AM » |
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I use PSE for my images (the ones you see on my website). It does not do as much as the regular PS but as far as I am concerned does more than enough! Then again I try to take good images  -Marty |
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chester
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« Reply #137 on: May 08, 2012, 07:17:18 PM » |
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Wonderful work on the light and sign Chuck. And thanks for the sbs, there's a lot of us techno cavemen out here. You've proven that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #138 on: May 09, 2012, 08:02:12 AM » |
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Thanks Chester! I have done all those things in PSE now that I think it over. Maybe next time. A modeller named Bill Gill contacted me and sent a link to some possibly better tape to use: http://www.thelibrarystore.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C85415%7C142914&id=4776I have had no issues with the Scotch Magic tape, but you never know. This kind of tape seems purpose made for what I am doing. |
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finescalerr
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« Reply #139 on: May 09, 2012, 12:55:04 PM » |
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The problem with most tapes is deterioration. They are okay for a few years, then dry out, shrink, and lose adhesion. Some 3M tapes, like the 467 double sided stuff better laser kit manufacturers use, seem to be relatively permanent; I have fifteen year old kits showing no sign of deterioration. I don't know how Magic Tape holds up. I used 3M Carpet Tape on a test piece a year ago but heard it may last only about five years.
I hope some of that info will be helpful to one or two of you.
Russ
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TRAINS1941
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« Reply #140 on: May 09, 2012, 01:24:18 PM » |
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Just goes to show. Don't out live your tape!!!!  Jerry |
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Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin
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marc_reusser
Curmudgeon
Administrator
Hero Member
Posts: 3885
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« Reply #141 on: May 09, 2012, 09:09:46 PM » |
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Well that is just awe-inspiring! But then that is the norm for you. As a side not re the question on siding. To adegree it depends on what period and local you are representing (and vernacular/stylistic variations), and what siding style/pattern/profile you are representing...but on the general norm, clapboard and shiplap sidings, or lap sidings, tended to be from 3/4" to 1" at their thickest. However, certain sidings/profiles have a rabbet detail at the bottom, which will accept the top edge of the board below...this rabbet/edge, is typically around 3/8 to 1/2" thick, thus leaving a around 3/8 to 1/2 inch bottom edge "exposed to weather". M |
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I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.In the corners of my mind there is a circus....M-Works
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #142 on: May 29, 2012, 08:53:51 AM » |
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Thanks for the info Marc! I haven't become crazy enough to try tapering the clapboards (yet). The annual orgy of auto racing provided some good modeling time this weekend. I added another sign and a sealed electric meter socket to the right side. The sign was made the same way as the previous one with the exception of a wood frame this time. The Coke portion was another mostly weathered web find. I only needed to do a little more rusting and it was done.   The meter socket was turned from .156 O.D. brass tubing. A slug of turned clear sprue was used to make the plastic cover used to seal unused meters. These often crazed thus obscuring the interior details (or in this case the lack of them). The top and bottom connectors were turned from .04 styrene hex stock. The conduit is .015 brass wire with clamps made from aluminum foil. The same thick paint N pick method I used on my Groveland Garage worked here for the ratty conduit covering. The weatherhead (power inlet) was made from styrene shapes with brass wires for the disconnected power feeds. I used a Flickr search to find examples of the meter, conduit and weatherhead.  |
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« Last Edit: June 12, 2012, 11:25:11 AM by Chuck Doan »
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lab-dad
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« Reply #143 on: May 29, 2012, 09:18:53 AM » |
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Your starting to get the hang of this little 1:48 stuff! Really pretty! are you using a macro lens, or just a basic?  ? -Mj |
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finescalerr
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« Reply #144 on: May 29, 2012, 01:27:48 PM » |
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The execution belies the scale. Satisfactory. -- Russ
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #145 on: May 29, 2012, 03:42:07 PM » |
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Thanks! Marty my camera has two macro settings (no interchangeable lenses  ). I used the first one for the top shot taken about 8" away. The bottom shot was on the second setting taken about 3" away. I can get as close a 1/2” but the second setting shots are almost always distorted requiring a fix in Photoshop. I pretty much only use macro mode for my model shots. My Fuji-san is getting pretty tired at 7 years old! |
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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #146 on: May 29, 2012, 10:23:13 PM » |
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Holy carp! That looks SO real! This would be top-notch work in 1/24th -- the fact that it's just 1/48th is mind-blowing.
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TRAINS1941
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« Reply #147 on: May 30, 2012, 07:32:37 AM » |
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That is just so unbelievable. With the extra detail it brings out the under the clapboard detail that I took for granted last pictures.
Just a "Master" doing his thing!!!
Jerry
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Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin
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chester
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« Reply #148 on: May 30, 2012, 07:50:22 AM » |
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I'll give the usual 'fantastic work!' to everything coming from Mr. Doan. It looks just too real to say "unreal!"
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Barney
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« Reply #149 on: May 30, 2012, 10:16:36 AM » |
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Superb workmanship and attention to detail it definitely keeps us on our toes not to omit even the smallest of detail and get my rivets in the wright place!!
Fantastic stuff Mr Chuck I have learnt a lot.
Thanks Barney
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