Small Baldwin 0-4-0 tank loco in 1:16 scale

[Scratchman]

Thanks, Randy. Here's two photos of the cylinder block and the frame. I built a jig to hold the boiler up-side-down and the new work was fitted to the old. I will add as much detail as I can to the frame before I paint and add the painted wheels. The couplers are 0 scale brass castings from Kemtron.  I'm looking for detail on the oil fitting on the top of the steam chest, boiler checks and injectors.  

 



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Chuck Doan]

Excellent progress!

[Ken Hamilton]

I just love your scratchbuilding methods - especially the wheels.
Beautiful as always, Gordon.

[JohnP]

The last photos shows a good concept- instead of using a generic foam cradle you spent a few moments to make a practical fixture to hold the loco upside-down. Thanks for the idea.

John

[finescalerr]

I knew this one would be a gem. It's shaping up .... -- Russ

[michael mott]

Gordon I like the way you use ordinary materials that fit the function that you need, very creative thinking.

Michael

[Malachi Constant]

Following along ... enjoying ... thanks for posting notes, photos ... and inspiration!  -- Dallas

[TRAINS1941]

Gordon,

Another one of excellent work.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

..um....like...WOW!


M

[Ray Dunakin]

As usual, it's both informative and enjoyable to watch this model come together.

[Scratchman]

Thanks guys for your comments, here's a photo of the steam and sand domes.



The dome tops are wood turnings. I cut a 1/8 inch over-diameter sizes piece of hard wood dowel around six inches long, the same length of the tool rest on my lathe. Using the disk sander square up the ends. Mark the center using a center-finder and center punch the center. After the sides and top of the dome have been shaped (Don't cut all the way off tell the turning work on the bottom is finished). Mark the height of the dome and using the lathe cut off square. Shape the bottom to match the top of the water tank. I don't have a barrow-type sander so the shaping on the bottom is done by using sand paper wrapped around a piece of tubing pipe or wood dowel.



Here's a photo of the jig that holds the model up-side-down that I cut away the back leg so I would have room for the back-head detail.

The base for the domes are 040" styrene disk shaped and glued to the 015" styrene layer that is glued on to the top of the temporary core. This styrene layer is only glued at the bottom keep the area under the domes glue free. The temporary core has the same profile as the top of the water tank. For this I used the extra piece of tubing from the water tank core. I squared the section of tubing on the disk sander, and glued it to a wood block. The 015 styrene sheet is cut the same length as the temporary core and a little shorter on the sides. Before adding this layer to the temporary core mark a center line on top and with a compass draw a circle for both domes. Now I center and glue this onto the temporary core (only use glue at the bottom of the two sides). The 040" styrene disks are cut with a circle cutter before bending them to match the water tank mark a cross on the top. Now just using my finger bend them and glue them to the 015" styrene layer. Now the wood top can be fitted and glued on before removing from the core mark the four sides. Cut the 015" styrene around the domes and sand smooth.       

Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[finescalerr]

Excellent. -- Russ

[Scratchman]

Here's two photos of my progress.





Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Ray Dunakin]

Wow!!

Are the brass NBWs on the steam chests castings, or actual nuts/bolts?

[finescalerr]

Took you long enough! -- Russ