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1/35 Paper Structure Vignette

Started by marc_reusser, May 23, 2011, 04:39:30 PM

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Mr Potato Head

Marc
My only criticism is,.........................................................
O.K. the penny's to shinny ::)
Great job
MPH
Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho

marc_reusser

Thanks Paul,Russ Gil. and Andi, for the knd words.

Andi...most overwhelmed...and at a loss for what to say. Thanks.

Yesterday it was time to work on "the back forty"..... more to go.




Today was "start the doors day" (image shpwsthem just loosely set in place). Not reLly happy with the result, but it wil have to do....hopefully the coming details on them will help.

Wood is Balsa strips, cut to needed size from a sheet. Knot holes were done with cut toothpicks.
Wood graining done with a wire pencil, fiber-glass pencil, and 400-grit sandpaper.
Wood staining was done "working wet..." with Tamiya acrylics, and Tamiya lacquer thinner.
Blue paint is Ranger crackle paint, applied over the wood sealed with Dullcoat, then dampened with Turpentine. Once the paint is applied, hair dryer is used to spped drying and increase crackling, then peeled with Tamiya masking tape.
Additional staining done with a mix of AK "Winter Streaking Grime", and "Dark Mud", additional staining at cracks, edges, and to accentuate crackles was done with ABT502 "Starship Filth" oil color.

I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Alexandre

Fantastic door.
I wonder, is this shade of blue from Ranger out of the jar or did you mix it with another classic color.
It's been a while since I've ordered mines, but at this time there wasn't a so nice blue in the catalogue.
My ranger Crackle Blue is really ugly, and yours shows nice grey/pale blue tones.
Or is it the result of the filters and dull coat and weathering?


marc_reusser

Alex,

The color is straight from the bottle..nothing added to it. I was thinking of doing this, but decided not to in the end, because I thought the latex content from most acrylic paints would likely cause the crackle not to work, or work well.

It was ugly and pale, when it came out of the bottle, but after drying and peeling I added an overall and random thinned wash of the AK "Winter Streaking Grime"  (the incorrect bottle one) to each board, and aside from accentuating the cracks and wood grain, it also darken the blue tone of the color, and gave it the shift towards the grey-blue tone.

I have in the past gone in and done oil color filters for more color as well as fading using a sponge and LifeColor  TSC212 "White Oxide".....you just need to make sure you dont get any on the wood, or cause chips to fall off. I find that once I amdone peeling and post-staining, a coat of DullCoat works pretty god to help hold the chips.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Mr Potato Head

Marc
This could be some of your best work!   :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models  ::) ::) ::)
MPH
Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho

Chuck Doan

I would have thought balsa to soft to work with. Seems to have worked here!
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

finescalerr

Yeah, I'd be pretty disappointed, too -- no matter what the other guys say. -- Rus

Arno Boudoiron

Beautiful!   :o
need to try soon something like that  :)

shropshire lad

Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
Marc
This could be some of your best work!   :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models  ::) ::) ::)
MPH

  Better idea . Parcel them up and send them to me and I'll build a nice concrete block and brick loco shed around them !

  Nick

TRAINS1941

Quote from: shropshire lad on July 08, 2013, 01:27:05 PM
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
Marc
This could be some of your best work!   :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models  ::) ::) ::)
MPH

  Better idea . Parcel them up and send them to me and I'll build a nice concrete block and brick loco shed around them !

  Nick

I really like them Marc.  Beautiful job.  Send them to me an save the postage.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

marc_reusser

Gil;
Thanks, appreciate the morale boost...though probably not hard to be "best ever", if it is only the the diorama one has ever built  ;D ...and "diorama" is stretching it...more like square peanut butter lid.  ;D Door is getting more details. I was at one point considering a metal door, as it would have been quicker and easier, but the original sheds I am using as a rough guideline, had wood doors, and I like the interplay/inclusion of wood as another material, and paint finish/texture....besides, once its in the closet or rubbish bin, I won't be able to see it anyway.  ;D  (actually this one probably wont end up in the bin..it will be saved so it can be stripped for parts when needed for some future project). BTW. not building this for a contest...this is just for a small sidebar article on "Moss" in the upcoming TWM "Vegetation" issue.....but hmm could bring it to the NNGC Just for fun. :)

Arno;
Thank you. I am sure that with your scratchbuilding skills, whatever you build would be quite spectacular.

Chuck,
The balsa has some real pro's and con's; the softness, making it easy to break, and lack of greater size variety being among the cons. The other negative points which can cause issues are the softness when cutting (say cros grain cuts), it easily deforms/compresses, so one needs to use a very sharp blade, and even then it is most advisable/necessary to sand it a bit to it's final length (even more so on thick pieces)...and also an issue, when painting, the red grain/checking in the wood...these areas do not accept stain well at all, so one needs to be selective in the wood pieces, and experiment with getting these areas to have some/enoughcolor, or be placed where it wont be an issue. On the plus side, I do like how easy and fast the wood is to work with, and it does take/absorb the Tamiya stain coloring far better than the Basswood. Gordon and I did a number of tests for wood satning and coloring about 6 months back, and the Balsa took the coloring in a far superior manner over the Basswood, and did not leave that semi transparent wood surface/depth that one often see's on stained baswood (I know that your technique makes it very nice and opaque, but at the time we were trying to figure out a way of doing it for modelers that do not have access to Silverwod, or heavy duty Acetone.) I do also like the ease in which the Balsa can be grainesd and worn.....really nice when one needs to work fast, and just get the idea/effect across....though because it is so soft, it is easy to quickly overdo it.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Chuck Doan

Thanks for the info. Your results certainly look good and don't give anything away regarding materials used.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Ray Dunakin

Sweet!

What are the dimensions of the base?

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

marc_reusser

Thanks Chuck and Ray.

Ray; The base is 4x6 (10x15cm).
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

mad gerald

#179
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
This could be some of your best work!   :o :o :o
... um well, at least one of his best ...  ;) ... anyhoo ... I second Gil, already looks the part ...

Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
... I always suspected you still have your focus on this ...  ;D

Quote from: marc_reusser on May 25, 2011, 03:30:34 PM

... may be, I'll give your technique representing and designing concrete a try too ... eventually this could help to finalize my own attempt of  making plaster look like concrete some time ago (feels it could be years by now) ...  :-\

Cheers