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Author Topic: Feldbahnmodule with ship  (Read 211797 times)
Bill Gill
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« Reply #450 on: June 25, 2019, 06:16:55 AM »

I can only come up with WOW!, this is terrific! which is woefully inadequate to describe your modeling.
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finescalerr
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« Reply #451 on: June 25, 2019, 12:18:25 PM »

Yeah, it's adequate. -- Russ
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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #452 on: June 27, 2019, 12:45:19 AM »

Holy cow! Marvelous work!
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #453 on: July 07, 2019, 05:17:57 PM »

Spectacular design and crafting!
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“They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details.” -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
fspg2
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« Reply #454 on: August 13, 2019, 01:29:51 AM »

So far, I had not finished the exhaust in my dust room.
It is still missing the suction shoe, which receives the chips directly at the spindle. The last stand is already almost 1 1/2 years back: klick
(Sorry, I only reported about it in the Buntbahnforum at that time).

So it was drawn again a little bit :

P1-Montage_128 (fspg2)



The gray drawn part is firmly connected to the movable spindle.

P1-Montage_129 (fspg2)


The yellow parts in the drawing are held with neodymium magnets and can be easily disassembled to change the milling cutter.


Initially I have milled a first test of 10.0mm MDF boards.

P1-Montage_130 (fspg2)



P1-Montage_131 (fspg2)



Firstly, I would like to see if the 5 provided magnets have too much holding power when changing. Maybe only three magnets are enough. Likewise it will show, whether the two intermediate layers with 20,0mm height are sufficient or if I pack another "slice" in between.


P1-Montage_132 (fspg2)


I have also ordered a round brush from the vacuum cleaner area. Maybe I can adapt them accordingly - and I do not have to stick them together with individual bristles.
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Frithjof
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« Reply #455 on: August 13, 2019, 09:05:21 AM »

I am sure you will come up with an elegant method of attaching the brush head to the assembly.  Just think about it while having a cold beverage before bedtime, place a pad and pencil on the night stand and sleep on it.  During the night there will be an AHA! moment, wake up take notes, and execute the remedy the next day.  Some of my best solutions to problems have come after sleeping on them.

Once finished the exhaust hood needs to have the edges eased and be painted to match the rest of the mill.   Grin

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finescalerr
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« Reply #456 on: August 13, 2019, 10:50:16 AM »

It probably is impossible to buy anything as good as what you build. -- Russ
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Franck Tavernier
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« Reply #457 on: August 14, 2019, 10:57:59 AM »

Awesome as always Frithjof!

Franck
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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #458 on: August 17, 2019, 11:09:43 PM »

Once again I am in awe of your clever creativity and skillful work!
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fspg2
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« Reply #459 on: August 27, 2019, 03:13:40 AM »

Thank you for the kind comments.

On vacation, I could continue with the suction shoe.

P1-Montage_133 (fspg2)


Such a milling dust should be a thing of the past in the future. Wink

P1-Montage_134 (fspg2)



From the individual 10mm thick discs, the suction shoe is aligned with the help of 3.0mm brass tubes and glued together with superglue.


P1-Montage_135 (fspg2)



P1-Montage_136 (fspg2)



P1-Montage_137 (fspg2)


.

P1-Montage_138 (fspg2)




The dark hard PVC part is removable to change the milling cutters.


P1-Montage_140 (fspg2)


Now only the round brush strip is missing.
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Frithjof
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« Reply #460 on: August 27, 2019, 12:55:08 PM »

I hope I am not the only person here reeling in stunned disbelief. -- Russ
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Design-HSB
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« Reply #461 on: August 27, 2019, 02:34:21 PM »

Yes Russ there is not only high-tech model making offered, but also the emergence of high-tech tools for this purpose is shown. Frithjof thank you very much for showing.
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Regards Helmut
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« Reply #462 on: August 28, 2019, 01:03:07 AM »

great Frithjof classy work.
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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #463 on: August 28, 2019, 11:35:53 AM »

You're not alone, Russ! It's amazing work!
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fspg2
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« Reply #464 on: February 07, 2020, 02:26:04 PM »

After a long time I built something in the workshop again at the last weekend.

I have already spent several hours on my Böhler circular saw in the past 20 years and have been able to saw out some parts for my projects.

Boehlerkreissaege_mit_Hilfsanschlag (fspg2)


The sliding carriage helped immensely!

The motor power with 12 volts and the "low" cutting height of only 15mm made me look for something bigger and stronger.
There is no overly large selection of circular saws suitable for model making.
After seeing some examples on Youtube, I made my choice.
Since I often want to saw congruent parts and do not want to start the CNC milling machine every time for a quick cut, a table saw sled should be built again.

The woodworkers have plenty of ideas online: click. Many are similar, so I was able to adapt some things for myself.

It was drawn first.

Schiebetisch_01 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_02 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_03 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_04 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_05 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_06 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_07 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_09 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_10 (fspg2)



12mm aluminum is no problem with the new saw Cheesy

With the help of the cross cut sled, the first parts for the adjustable stop were sawn.

Schiebetisch_11 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_12 (fspg2)



Schiebetisch_13 (fspg2)


The self-adhesive steel tape measure with center "0" has been ordered.

Then a few projects can continue  Wink


Why the effort with the sliding carriage:?:

Quite simply - for a number of parts that I still want to build for the lifting bridge module, I need very precise right-angled cuts in various materials (wood, plastic, brass, aluminum, ...
As already said, no problem with the milling machine ... with the saw some things go a little faster.

With the new circular saw I can cut 24.5mm high with an 85mm circular saw blade (with the Böhler it was 15.0mm).
So I can now quickly and individually adjust the remaining "limestones" to the masonry.



Recently I had found two nice little helpers for the circular saw on the web - or rather, I saw in videos how such parts can be made by myself.

A KERFMAKER is required for the production of exact grooves. There are plenty of examples: click

One post particularly appealed to me, so I built it last night, especially since I found all the parts I needed in my left-over boxes.


The beechwood board was provided with the necessary incisions on the router (14.0mm cutter).

Kerfmaker_01 (fspg2)


At the rip fence on the circular saw, the remnant board was sawn to the required width and for length I used the sliding carriage.

Kerfmaker_03 (fspg2)


The small screws for adjusting the saw blade thickness are still missing on the last photo.


In order to safely guide the wooden strip at the rip fence, I drew a FEATHERBORD that fits the saw in size.


There are also a number of examples: click


Featherboard_02 (fspg2)


Then two parts were milled together with a 2.0 mm one tooth cutter.

Featherboard_03 (fspg2)


With the cross cut sled I separated the two parts.

Featherboard_04 (fspg2)


The inserted 3.0 mm wooden strips ensured that the individual combs were not damaged when they were cut.

Featherboard_05 (fspg2)



Featherboard_06 (fspg2)


As desired, the comb now ensures a clean pressure on the bar.

Featherboard_07 (fspg2)



Featherboard_08 (fspg2)


Time required for drawing: approx. 30 minutes and around 40 minutes for milling.
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Frithjof
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