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Feldbahnmodule with ship

Started by fspg2, April 21, 2011, 12:42:16 AM

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Ray Dunakin

That turned out great! Can't even see the joint.
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

fspg2

#241
Uwe, a nice colleague of Buntbahn forum tendered to print some needed parts in 3D.

At this German forum he describes how he did it.


It was a great joy as I got a package from him recently.

I smoothed all parts with sandpaper (grain size1000) then the sandblaster was used. It tooks about 5 minutes per part.

Brueckenkopf_18 (fspg2)

top left = roughly smoothed with sandpaper 1000grain, top right = sandblasted addition, bottom right = unmachined casting


Brueckenkopf_17 (fspg2)


Next the parts will be primed gray, by the way larger pores will become sealed. I´ll see how they look like, possibly sandpaper and sandblasting gun will needed again.

Frithjof
Frithjof

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

1-32

hi friithjof.
are those stone cappings 3d printing.just very clean and convincing.
regards kim

fspg2

#244
Hi Kim,

those parts are castings. Uwe has printed two adverse half shells with his 3D printer.

The following pictures may demonstrate the processing method (taken by Uwe):

STL-file



two half shells for left and right capping



ready for casting



half shells with cast



castings before clean up


Frithjof

lab-dad

How do you fill the molds?
I can not see plaster flowing into the molds.
Marty

finescalerr

I love this blend of traditional and hi-tech and the results speak for themselves. -- Russ

1-32


3d printing to make the molds and you can use any material for the finish-nice

fspg2

#248
A little update again after a long time.

Many small riveted angles and profiles have to be made for the four connecting bridges.

Hubbruecke_Anschlussbruecken_ (fspg2)

Copyright: WSA-Lauenburg/Elbe


oestliche_Bruecken (fspg2)


Either I could
(a) drill all small profiles and fill them with genuine rivets or (a lot of work)
(b) press rivets or (The profiles must be annealed before!)
(c) build a master pattern and cast it or
(d) print a master pattern and cast them too.

For the crossbeam and lower shelf I requested a foundry. I hope that they can print and cast the partly only 0.4mm thick sections!


Knoten_A-Gussbaum-neu_001 (fspg2)



The blue selection indicates the finished part. The lateral parts will be cut off.


Knoten_A-Gussbaum-neu_002 (fspg2)



U-Profil_6x3x0_5_56_5mm_Gussbaum_002 (fspg2)



U-Profil_6x3x0_5_56_5mm_Gussbaum_003 (fspg2)



I had made the longitudinal beams and the mounting bracket for the wooden cross beams some time ago.
The drilled holes have a diameter of 1.0 mm. But the purchased 1.0 mm rivets have a diameter of 0.94 mm only.
After positioning the first angles with the rivets on the long beams, an exact alignment of the angles were not given. The tolerance in the holes was clearly noticeable.
Since I had purchased about 300 rivets, I will use them, especially as manufacturing new better rivets would take until early next year.


Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_01 (fspg2)



But now I want cause an exact result with minimal effort.
So, again a small gauge was drawn and machined.


Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_05 (fspg2)



Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_06 (fspg2)



Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_07 (fspg2)



Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_08 (fspg2)



Loetlehre_Winkel_oben_09 (fspg2)
Frithjof

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

fspg2

#250
Two weeks ago I was still assumed that I would use the existing rivets...
Quote... especially as manufacturing new better rivets would take until early next year.

Then I got good news by Manfred (a colleague at Buntbahn forum) that he was still able to make my desire rivets very quickly.

So, I have soldered the new custom-made rivets and the angle profiles with the first longitudinal beams.


The protude angle profiles should be sawn off with my BÖHLER saw, but...

Langtraeger_01 (fspg2)


the height-adjustable blade was not sufficient up (in despite highest position).

So I milled a gauge from beech wood where I could insert the longitudinal beams overhead.


Langtraeger_02 (fspg2)


At a guidance I pushed this gauge past the saw blade and separated the overhanging parts from both sides without hurting the long carrier with the saw blade.

Langtraeger_03 (fspg2)



Langtraeger_04 (fspg2)



I was not very happy with my sand blast cabinet. Continuously the compressor came on to generate the required pressure (ejector concept). In the long time the noise was very annoying.
At Buntbahn I saw a note on an alternate product from Austria: here

Now the complete air volume is used for the radiation and not 80% for the suction of the blasting media.
A pressure of approximately 2 atmospheres is sufficient for the purposes of our hobby!

As the package arrived yesterday, I immediately had to sandblast one part.

Langtraeger_05 (fspg2)


The silky shiny surface is achieved by glass beads.


Langtraeger_06 (fspg2)


My conclusion: Even if I must refill the reservoir with glass beads (or aluminium oxide) every 5 minutes, the result is much better than I had reached it with the old sand blasting cabinet.
But above all, I have less noise pollution now.
Through the use of glass beads I have an almost complete removal of solder residue with a lower pressure also.
I have not regretted the purchase... so far ;-)
Frithjof

Bill Gill


finescalerr


Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Chuck Doan

Hard to believe it could get better...but it did!
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/