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Author Topic: Two-seat vault privy in 1:16 scale  (Read 35773 times)
Scratchman
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« on: November 17, 2007, 02:14:06 PM »

Two-seat vault privy in 1:16 scale

The information for this model came from the book, The Vanishing American Outhouse, by Ronald S. Barlow. 

Base
The diorama base has three layers; the top layer (A) is made from 3/4" particle board 10 inches square. I laid out the footprint of the privy and cut out a hole for the vault. The middle layer (B) is made up of 1 1/2" strips of 3/4" particle board and the bottom layer (C) of 1/4" hard board 10 inches square. I glued and nailed the layers together and cleaned up the edges with my 10-inch disk sander, I painted the top edge of the top layer Engine Black and added a frame of barn wood (D) 3/8" by 1 1/2" to the sides.


Photo #1
Shows the top layer (A) of the base and the footprints of the privy (Note how it is not centered on the base)


Photo #2
Shows a cross section of the base

A . Particle board 3/4" X 10" X 10"
B . Particle board 3/4" X 1 1/2" X 10" border
C . Hard board 1/4" X 10" X 10"
D . Barn wood 3/8" X 1 1/2" X (2 - 10") (2 -10 3/4")
E . Basswood 1 1/6" X 3/4" (to go around the vault)

Also photo #1 is showing a cross section and top view of the vault. (The two side walls are made up of four separate parts each (e, f, g, h), and the front wall is made up of three separate parts (b, d, j).

a. Wood 1/8" X 3 5/8" X 2 5/8"
b. Wood 1/4" X 3 5/8" X 2 7/8"
c. Wood 1/4" X 2 7/8" X 1 3/4"
d. Wood 1/8" X 3 5/8" X 1 5/8"
e. Wood 3/8" X 1/8" X 2 7/8"
f. Wood 3/8" X 1/2" X 2 1/4"
g. Wood 3/8" X 3/8" X 2 7/8"
h. Wood 3/8" X 1 1/4" X 2 3/4" (cut top on angle)
i. Styrene .040" X 2 7/8" X 3" (cut to fit)
j. Wood 1/8" X 1/4" X 2 7/8" (spacer)


Vault
The vault is made out of basswood 1/8" stock for the bottom 3/8" for the sides and 1/4" for the front and back with 1/8" to add thickness to the front wall to form a ledge for the plates and a 1/8" to add height to the front wall to set on and finish up with a .030" thick sheet of styrene to form up the curved bottom of the vault.  I then used a disk sander to smooth up the four sides. When I cut the hole for the vault it was cut a little larger and then I lined the vault up on the layout lines and added (E) 1/16" stock to fill over to the vault leaving just enough room so it can slide in and out but stay true to the layout lines. Now I added spacers (j) to the bottom to get it to the correct elevation as it sets on the bottom layer of the base.


Photo # 3
After sanding, I primed with Mr. Surface 1000 out of the can then I did a  layer of Mr. Surface 500 using a small pallet knife and painted with Floquil Concrete thinned down with Floquil air brush thinner.  On the interior face I dabbed on a frisket and painted refer white and then removed the frisket.

Plans
I drew up a full size floor plan and cross sections for both front-to-back and side-to-side and a drawing of all four walls showing the size and layout of the siding. I also did a drawing for both doors. These six drawings are done on four-quad paper. Keep the width of the two side walls the same as the framing and add two times the thickness of the siding on the front and back walls.

Framing
With the finish vault setting in the base I started by pre-painting and cutting all the framing parts. Then I put together the parts for the Floor assembly (A, B,C, D, E, F, G, H).  Part (E) is the bottom girth for the front wall and the connecting point for the front wall assembly (I, J) the two corner posts (I) are squared on graft paper and the top girth (J) added. The next two assemblies are the seat and the back wall. For the seat assembly (L, M, N and the seat boards) back wall assembly two posts (O) and two girths (P) need to be laid out and squared on graft paper.  Part (N) is the bottom girth for the back wall and the connecting point for the back wall assembly. With the floor and seat assembly glued on the vault the two walls are added. The corner posts sit on the bottom plates (A, L) and to the side of the girth (E, N).  As the two walls are added the parts for the side walls (Q ,U).are added. On the front wall add the two door jambs out of 1? x 4?that goes between the top and bottom girths. I made up the three sets of rafters and this finishes the framing part.

Framing parts
A- 2- plates 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2"
B- 2- rims 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 5/8"
C- 2- rims 1/8" x 1/4" x 1 1/8"
D- 2- concrete posts 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8"
E- 1- girth 1/16" x 1/2" x 3 5/8"
F- 1- spacer 1/8" x 1/4" x 3"
G- 2- steps 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 1/16"
H- 4- steps 1/8" x 1/4" 11/16"
I- 2- front corner posts 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"
J- 1- step 1/8" x 5/8" x 2 1/2"
K-1- girth 1/16" x 3/8" x 3 1/2"
L- 2- plates 1/8" x 3/8" x 1 1/4"
M- 1- spacer 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"
N- 1- bottom back wall girth 1/6" x 1/2" x 3 5/8"
O- 2- back corner posts 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"
P- 2- back wall girths 1/16" x 3/8" x 3 1/2"
Q- 2- side wall top plates 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"
U- 4- side wall girths 1/16" x 3/8" x 2 7/8"
V- 6- rafters 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"


Photo #4
Shows the framing parts and some of the basic dimension

One piece siding
14- Floor boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 1 1/2"
7- Seat boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 3 5/8"
24- Roof boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 3 3/4' or 4"

Vault vent
1- 1/4" x 1/4" x 5"
2- 1/16" x 1/4" x 5 9/16"
2- 1/16" x 3/8" x 5 9/16"
The top of the vent has two end walls   
2- Vent roof boards 1/16" x 3/4" x 1 1/2"
Boards for top of vent 1/16" x 1/4" and 3/8" stock
The screen is fine brass screen, I think I got it from Kemtron. (P. S. Co.)

Interior trim
1- Trim under seat 1/32" x 3/16"x 3 5/8"
1- 1/4 round trim on floor small x 3 5/8"
 Lids 1/16" x 1/4" stock (add wood handle and hinges)



Photo #5 and #6
Show the finish framing

Siding
The prototype used 1" x 4" T&G flooring.  To simulate this on the roofs, floor boards and the seat, I used 1/16" x 1/4" basswood. On the four walls and the two doors I used my three-layer system with a center layer of .010" clear styrene and an outside and inside layer of 1/32" x 1/4" pre-painted basswood.  I cut the clear styrene for the four walls and the two doors using the drawings for size and shape. Now with the piece of styrene lined up on the drawing, I start adding the interior siding using the quad lines on the drawing to keep the siding straight and true. Turn the piece over and add the exterior siding using the back of the interior siding to keep straight and true. The siding is tongue and groove so you don?t want to see light coming though the joints. Try to keep the joints tight. If you don?t add corner trim on the corners you well need to cut in a piece of trim to cover up the three layers of the wall.


Photo # 7
Shows the four siding walls

Finish work
Add 1/16" x 1/4" trim to the door and windows.
Add 1/16" x 1/8" trim around the under side of the roof boards.
The prototype used prepared roofing. I used a 1/2" scale corrugated paper on my model (On this forum see thread peeling paint on corrugated paper).
The two doors used doll house hinges.  The door handles are scratch-built.
The privy was painted with Floquil Reefer White and Caboose Red out of a rattle can.

Ground work
It starts with a thick coat of white glue on the base, then I add a layer of coarse sand and add Woodland Scenics fine and coarse ballast and fine ground foam (both soil and earth colors).   For the flora, I used moss, clumps out of a brush and dead sagebrush trigs. The fence has a wood frame with the corrugated paper.





Photo #8, 9,10, and 11
Completed model.


Gordon Birrell   Scratchman
 
       
« Last Edit: December 24, 2010, 10:15:04 AM by Scratchman » Logged
marc_reusser
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« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2007, 03:31:34 PM »

What a great project. Beutifully built and weathered, And I really enjoyed and appreciated the way you did the SBS (step-by-step)...lot's of very good and useful info...I particularly like the effect/finish you acheived on the concrete vault.


Marc
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M-Works
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« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2007, 01:00:01 AM »

Thanks Marc,

All the concrete I have modeled before now has looked like painted wood. The Mr. surface 500 gives some texture and takes the paint better than the plain primed wood. I have bases,vaults and framing parts for three more dioramas. I'm going to build at least one more now with white board and batten siding and  red or green tar paper on the roof. I'm going to be driving to Portland next year and will have plenty of room for model and will probably bring both.

Gordon Birrell Scratchman  http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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finescalerr
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« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2007, 02:11:27 AM »

In the photos, the model could pass for 1:1 scale! Remarkable work. -- Russ
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« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2007, 04:26:19 AM »

Great! I look forward t seeing them in person. Will you be bringing the large modular diorama also?

Did you use chalks or additional paint washes/colors over the "Aged Concrete" to get the mottled and nicely weathered finish/effect.

Marc
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« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2007, 08:13:16 AM »

Finally!
I had been peeking at your flikr site and was wonderin' when/if we would see the whole shebang.
Like Marc I love the step by step; great for someone just getting started in 1:16 <grin>
You and Younger sure have a love of the back houses!
-Marty
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« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2007, 11:46:00 AM »

That is really an outstanding model its so real unbelievable.
I will have to visit your site you are doing some remarkle work.
Portland should be very interesting indeed.

Jerry
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George Carlin
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« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2007, 10:38:08 PM »

Thanks guys,

Marc
1. I did some sanding before painting
2. Painting with Floquil concrete thinned down 1:3 with Floquil thinner 2-3 coats
3. oil wash- raw umber Artists' Oil Color thinned with Model Masters air brush cleaner
4. The wash may have been laid over a coat Dull Coat
5. I'm also into my first bottle of Silverwood, and I think some of it may have been brushed on
6. I finished with a coat of Dull Coat

No 3/4" diorama will be coming to Portland, the Wife's car's not quite big enough, but I will be bringing at least two outhouses, and I'm just starting  a 1918 Doane, Model HP, Low-Bed, 6-Ton Truck. I've already modeled this truck, so a lot of the modeling work has already been figured out, giving me time to add detail and apply new weathering techniques.

Marty
This 1:16 scale  can become addicting.

The following two pics are of the second vault, right before painting, I wasn't as heavy with the Mr. Surface 500. I'll have pics of the painting in a day or so.

Gordon Birrell Scratchman
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« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2007, 10:41:39 PM »




Gordon Birrell Scratchman
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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« Reply #9 on: November 20, 2007, 04:06:44 AM »

Thanks Gordon. The second one looks goodso far. How did you do the board form lines?

Look forward to the truck model.


Marc
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« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2007, 09:58:21 PM »

The following three pics are of vault #2 after the painting is complete.

1- Paint as above # 2(this step I use a brush)
2- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)
3- Oil wash as above #3(this step I use a brush)
4- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)
5- I did some streaking with silver wood stain
6- Oil wash right after the silver wood stain (flooded over all surfaces (with a large eye dropper wiping off with a paper towel)
7- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)

The interior wall was painted as above photo #3. The masking tape is temporary blocking the unfinished lower part of the vault to better see the finish.

Marc
I?m working on the Mr. Surface 500 part on vault #3(more to come)

Gordon Birrell Scratchman






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« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2007, 11:51:18 PM »

Thanks for the pics and explanation...beutiful.

Marc
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« Reply #12 on: December 27, 2007, 07:27:49 PM »

Concrete form lines

After a good coat or two of Mr. Surfacer 500 in the bottle applied with a pallet knife let dry will before moving on. Now add a layer of masking tape I did three layers for my large scale. Out of the can spray a good coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 up against the tape. Before the paint has dried mold the line with a straight flat tool when moving around the piece keep previous work cover.



Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2007, 01:54:31 AM »

Great! Thanks...the board line was the piece of the steps I was unsure about how you acheived it.

Are you still ending up with a slight woodgrain board pattern in areas of concrete when it's all said and dione?

Marc
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jay_imok
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« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2007, 04:51:54 AM »

Holy Sh**
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