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Author Topic: Ranger Crackle Paints  (Read 46838 times)
Junior
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Anders "Junior"


« Reply #90 on: January 17, 2011, 02:35:05 AM »

I got a bottle of the white stuff, it has the consistency of pudding.  Is that normal or has it dried up a little in the bottle?    Also I don't really get a nice crackle effect unless its brushed on pretty thick.   Huh 

Does anyone know of an additive to make paint shrink and crack as it dries?  I'm thinking we could make our own crackle paints,  more suitable for scale model building.   This stuff seems a little too  "arts n' crafts."

Dave
I received one bottle that had dried up a bit - just add water and it will be fine. It seems that there are many different results on these pages and it´s really difficult to tell why. After MANY experiments I now have in my opinion excellent results on wood, paper and styrene. Dave, try and coat with one dilluted layer and then continue gradually with less water until you have the desired effect.

Anders Grin
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #91 on: January 17, 2011, 05:56:38 PM »

A nice mix of effects (view larger size)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/srichardimages/5339172382/in/pool-dwd
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http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
mrboyjrs
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« Reply #92 on: January 23, 2011, 11:28:01 PM »

I will have to experiment with the Rangle paints.
I have found that when using the hair spray chipped paint technique, if you go a little overboard with your initial hairspray application, wait 10 minutes and airbrush your acrylic color.
Then blowdry to speed up the drying of the paint, I get a fine crackle each time.

This is a pice of wood, covered with Gesso, sanded and carved up to be used as a foundation for an over hang. This is how it first looked when dry.  Once you mess it up some more it looks pretty convincing.


* Crocker-Bros-Build-087.jpg (89.54 KB, 800x600 - viewed 683 times.)
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Jimmy Simmons
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #93 on: October 21, 2011, 05:04:15 AM »

Also experimenting with some paint/detail effects for the project I have going. This is a bit less than a 12"/30cm wide board in 1/35 scale.

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Junior
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« Reply #94 on: October 23, 2011, 01:38:29 PM »

Again...just beautiful. Nice touch with the twisted piece of metal.

Anders  Grin
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Max Corey
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« Reply #95 on: September 18, 2013, 03:49:31 AM »

I usually model in the era, so most things are not heavily weathered.  The paint is fresh and the corrugated metal is only lightly rusty and dirty.  Some rust of course but crackling paint and putty?

But.... am currently building very old stone and wooden structures in 1/48 so need to figure out this crackling paint stuff.  I am not all that good at heavy weathering.  So I bought Martha Stewart crackle and fine crackle at Michaels but they are clear transparent and, after many tries on varying surfaces, have not gotten it to crackle barely/hardly at all, and it drys semi-glossy and clear.  The examples on line are of women painting it on doll and bird houses, jewelry chests, etc.

Perhaps the trick is to use this Ranger paint so another trip to Michaels in the scrapbooking supplies you say.

I have traditionally used rubber cement, sometimes thinned, dabbed and nearly dry brushed on wood and metal.  Then dry brushed paint over top.  Then a rubber cement pick-up, knife, wire brush, etc. to remove just some of it.  Then staining, although sometimes stain the wood before the rubber cement.  Leaves a peeling rather than crackling.  Many old and/or abandoned farm houses and barns, sheds, etc. around here for reference.

Max muddling madly in Michigan

The results of Chuck Doan are amazing and I wanna do it too. 
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Junior
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« Reply #96 on: September 19, 2013, 06:56:18 AM »

I´m not familiar with the Martha Stewart paints only the cook books  Grin! I think another trip to Michael´s would do it. The Ranger paints require a little practicing but gives good results in my opinion.

Anders
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Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #97 on: September 19, 2013, 02:22:50 PM »

thinning and one stroke work best in my opinion, two many strokes clumps up
Just try it! You'll like it :- )_)MPH
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« Reply #98 on: June 30, 2014, 02:30:51 PM »

I don't know if this has been discussed here but some non scale modellers use Elmer glue to make crackle paint, here's one example:

http://www.ehow.com/how_12049646_diy-crackle-paint-elmers-glue.html
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mspaw
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« Reply #99 on: November 08, 2016, 10:26:18 PM »

I'm sure this isn't news to anyone but in looking recently for the Ranger Crackle paints to experiment with it looks like they may be discontinued. If this is the case are there some alternatives that are giving the same fine detail?

Thanks

-Michael
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darrylhuffman
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« Reply #100 on: November 08, 2016, 10:32:55 PM »

Michael.

Lots of it on Amazon.com
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #101 on: February 20, 2017, 08:43:52 PM »

If you can't find a color that you are after, you can buy a color like linen, and then use a small amount of acrylic ink to tint it. Do not use too much ink, or you will change the chemical qualities of the crackle paint.

(Fence pickets are laser cut pieces from LSG Laser Kits...so grain texture on unpainted boards is harder to show/create, for some effects...and nail holes are part of the kit)


* wed.jpg (176.94 KB, 700x517 - viewed 61 times.)
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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #102 on: February 20, 2017, 10:42:28 PM »

Nice to see you posting something again!
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« Reply #103 on: February 20, 2017, 11:23:35 PM »

Lets not get our hopes up quite yet.  Wink
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