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Foothill Model Works Flat Car Challenge

Started by marc_reusser, August 02, 2007, 09:58:24 PM

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marc_reusser

Foothill Model Works (FMW) has long been making and selling beautifully cast, and highly detail, resin car kits, as well as some incredibly detailed injection molded plastic detail parts.  At this years NNGC FMW will be releasing the first of several beautiful injection molded plastic kits. The first 2 kits will be their 7' x 20' and 7' x 24' flats cars. The kits will be available in both On3 and On30. They will retail at $30, and will include Macloed trucks. These kits are essentially upgraded and much more refined versions of their current styrene cars.

More information about the cars and other FMW products can be found at their website: http://home.inreach.com/jkitts/

Several members of our modeling group (Terrapin Narrow Gauge Society; http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/index.html) were fortunate last weekend to see some of the test shots of the parts, and one of the unpainted pilot models for the 7 x 20 car. We were so taken by the quality, and the fact that it was a styrene kit, that we decided to run a "Model Challenge" amongs our members that were interested, to see what kind of kitbashing possibilities that this kit held. This thread will discuss and present the evolution of these models and the challenge.


A brief review of the parts and pilot model:

The parts don't have any "draft angle", which makes ell edges square and crisp. This not only makes the detail and parts look prototypically correct, but greatly helps in assembly. I saw very little to no flash on the test shots. Aside from being available in both gauges, the cars will also come with other options; such as different buffer blocks, two types of needle beams, different bolster thicknesses (For On3 & On30. Using the On3 bolster for On30 raises the coupler height which is handy for some people who use a higher than the normal HO coupler height.) A great feature of the car is that most parts have pins or groves to align parts for ease of assembly and proper alignment (yet they are not so deep or obtrusive that they cannot be easily filled with a tiny dab of putty), and the side, intermediate and center sills are all prototypically notched (a scale 3/4") to hold/accept the bolsters and needle beams.


The rules we have set for the challenge are as follows (and may change):

1. Car must be built using one of the new styrene FMW kits. (7x20 or 7x24)
2. Car length and gauge is up to the builder; cars can be shortened, lenghtened by splicing two frames together, narrowed, etc.: but all the components for the car base need to utilize the kit parts)
3. Car type/use/modification/etc. is up to the builder.
4. Materials and details used in the building of the car are up to the builder.
5. All builds steps and any special/interesting techniques must be documented, in text and photo.
6. Progress photos and technique totorials required wher applicable.
7. Time frame to be determined. (Start will be whenever one receives their kit......end date?)


...and so off we go! ;D
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

marc_reusser

For my Model, I plan to use the 7x20 kit to build a 2-bay sugar cane car, based on these prototpes.
Though the images show cars with steel farmes, wood frames were also available (as shown in the image).
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

marc_reusser

#2
...and here is a preliminary 3D CAD model of the wood version I will be fussing around with.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Younger

I'm planning and researching a 28' flat car NPC or SPC, by splicing two kits together. I may also freelance a 20' excursion car.
Jerry the Younger
-Younger

lab-dad

Right now I am planning a refer.
I'd like to do a 20', but may end up doing a 24'
-Marty

Doug H.

Marc,

Thanks for getting this thread started. I'm looking forward to see how creative we can be and will be sharing my entry....once I get started!

Doug
"It was an American tradition, like fathers chasing kids around with power tools."

marc_reusser

#6
Some more drafting layout fun..... ::) ;D

Doug, Great Avatar!  ;D

Marc


I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

marc_reusser

...and the underside of the car with Hardware.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

marc_reusser

Rumor has it that the new FMW kist are now available for order and shipping.

I will post pics of the kit as soon as mine arrives......So this thread should hopefully get moving soon.


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

RoughboyModelworks

#9
Looks like an interesting challenge Marc. I'm looking forward to monitoring the progress here. Concerning your planned entry, the computer geek in me wants to know what software you are using for your 3D CAD designs. They have the look of Solidworks renderings... Did you have the opportunity to check out the Cobalt software we were talking about on the Roughboy Forum?

Bill



marc_reusser

Bill,

I do all my 3D work on SketchUp Pro v.6.  I like using the basic display/presentation settings, as they remind me more of a study/design development model.....sort of like the monochrome chip-board or basswood study models that I do for homes. I feel they are just loose/basic  enough to allow the viewer to read some of his own thoughts/feelings/interpretation into them, while still clearly showing all the important aspects/features/characteristics.

The sheet with the images/plan was created using "Layout" which is a plug-in/add-on that comes with the Pro 6 version.  It's sort of a mix of AutoCad's "viewports", and a basic graphics sheet layout program (like MS Publisher). The images on the sheet "view"/reference the 3D model, and update/change as the model gets updated/changed.

Marc


I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

RoughboyModelworks

Marc

I'm impressed - you're doing some very nice work with SketchUp. I've used Pro v6 a couple of times to literally do some quick sketch visualizations of a design idea, but I've found it to be somewhat limiting in the precision and amount of control it affords the user. I'm committed to Cobalt which also has far more advanced rendering capabilities which is an important feature, especially with product design. The Layout feature is a definite plus with SketchUp. Cobalt has essentially the same function called "Model to Sheet" which will generate plan and elevation views automatically from your 3D design and present them on any one of 14 standard drafting sheets. You can also make your own custom sheets. The possibilities are endless. Any corrections or changes made in the 3D design are automatically updated in the generated 2D drawings. It also comes with a huge library of standard mechanical parts in all major standards, ie bolts, nuts, screws, gears, springs, split rings and so on, which makes it easy to spec hardware.

Cobalt does have some drawbacks. Price is definitely one. At $4G  :o, it's almost 9x the price of SketchUp Pro. Not the sort of thing you want to just pick up and experiment with. It also has a steeper learning curve, though for as complex a package as it is, it is relatively easy to grasp providing the user has an understanding of 2D and 3D design principles. The interface and usability is aimed at designers not engineers, which for me is a huge plus. I design visually, not by mathematic equations.

I'm working on a project now in Cobalt which I'll be posting on the Roughboy Forum in fairly near future. I'm working on pilot beams (made of Swiss Pear of course) for a 1:48 18-ton shay.

Bill

marc_reusser

#12
The FMW Kit arrived Yesterday.

It comes packaged in the ubiqutous white flip top cardboard box we've come to associate with FMW kits.



Inside the box one finds all the parts/sprues nicely packaged in individual plastic bags and accompanied by a set of instructions (3 sheets 8-1/2x11 sheets, printed double sided), containing a color photo of a built-up car, A diagram for the truck assembly, 6 B&W photos of various views of the car explaining/showing where pieces are/should be located, and a set of scale line drawings of the car, along with a line drawn bending template for the truss rods. The step-by-step instruction text is broken down into general sections (Introduction, Recommended Tools & Supplies, Bill of Materials, Pre-Assembly, Truck Assembly, Main Assembly, Frame Details, Brake Rigging, Optional Details, Painting, Final Details) with clear and concise explanation of the assembly steps/process.





The individual bags contain/broken down into:

1. The car frame and deck
2. An assortment of bolsters, needle beams, draft timbers, and buffer blocks
3. Nuts, bolts, straps and other assorted car hardware, brake wheel and ratchet.
4. Stake pockets, brake hoses, steps, and underbody detail parts.
5. Brake beams and levers
6. MacLeod and Western trucks
7. NWSL wheel-sets
8. Kadee couplers and boxes.
9. Brass wire

There is a total of 122 parts (not counting wheel-sets, couplers, and brass wire)

As noted in the review of the "test-shots", all the FMW parts are beautifully and crisply cast with no flash, no draft, and minimal mold lines.

This is a wonderfuly produced model kit, truly what a kit should be, and clearly sets the standard for what model kits in the Model Railroading hobby should aspire to.


Marc


I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

TRAINS1941

Thanks Marc it looks like an outstanding kit.  I can't wait to see how you and Marty and the others build these.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

Younger

Let's see if I can make this work:

My first challenge car will be a Carter Bros. 28' flat car. This involves cutting and splicing two 20' frames. Here is the layout:

To insure square and accurate cuts, I squared and clamped the frames in my razor saw miter box, with a metal guide for the saw.

Here is the spliced frame, with the unused slots and cut areas filled with styrene strip, putty and sanded out.
-Younger