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News:     REGARDING MEMBERSHIP ON THIS FORUM: Due to spam, our server has disabled the forum software to gain membership. The only way to become a new member is for you to send me a private e-mail with your preferred screen name (we prefer you use your real name, or some variant there-of), and email adress you would like to have associated with the account.  -- Send the information to:  Russ at finescalerr@msn.com
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 on: Today at 04:49:56 AM 
Started by Ray Dunakin - Last post by Bill Gill
Ray, Good to see that your models are salvageable! Sounds like you've been having a hot spell there and I saw photos of plastic siding and stuff over in Arizona that really warped and sagged in the heat there. The new bridge is a good addition to the RR.

 on: Today at 12:49:48 AM 
Started by Ray Dunakin - Last post by finescalerr
That photo of the Rock Shop door and window is convincing. -- Russ

 on: June 28, 2017, 11:28:25 PM 
Started by Ray Dunakin - Last post by Wesleybeks
Always love pics of your Railway Ray.

The night shots are awesome

 on: June 28, 2017, 08:02:25 PM 
Started by Ray Dunakin - Last post by Ray Dunakin
I haven't had a lot of time for modeling so far this year, and what time I did have, has mostly been spent refurbishing older models. The newest structure is a through, plate girder bridge. Until now I've just had a crude temporary bridge made of wood, which has become badly warped:



I built a permanent replacement for it. My previous plate girder bridges were all made using a structural fiberglass material called G10. This time, I wanted to try making it out of Sintra. I used 6mm Sintra for the deck and sides. The interior braces were made from 1mm Sintra. The rest of the details are styrene.  I got a bit lazy on this bridge and decided to leave off the rivets -- where it's located, no one can get very close to it anyway. The underside of the bridge is strengthened with three lengths of 1/2" square acrylic tube, plus three sections of extruded aluminum angle for good measure.



I sprayed it with red primer followed by gloss black. Then I weathered it with a thin, alcohol wash of gray acrylic paint. Then I used RustAll to create reddish rusty streaks. Next I used Sophisticated Finishes' "Iron" and "Rust Solution".



Two of my earliest structures on the layout were really starting to show their age. The paint was faded and worn (beyond the intentional weathering). The clear plastic used in some of the windows had yellowed, fogged, and warped. Slide cover glass used in a few places had broken or fallen out. A couple signs were faded, and both structures had minor damage caused by a raccoon. One of the buildings still had incandescent "grain of rice" bulbs, which I wanted to replace with LEDs. Here are the "before" photos:



Here are the "after" photos:




 on: June 28, 2017, 07:24:32 PM 
Started by Design-HSB - Last post by Bill Gill
Nice work, Helmut. Thanks for posting the prototype photos to see how closely you constructed your model.

 on: June 28, 2017, 06:01:37 PM 
Started by Seattle Dave - Last post by Seattle Dave
Both books you suggested were received today, and eagerly leafed through.  Many thanks for the input Gordon.  For the data included at the price paid, I virtually "stole" these books!

I cannot thank you enough!


 on: June 28, 2017, 12:39:17 PM 
Started by Design-HSB - Last post by finescalerr
Me, too. Your model a very accurate miniature of the full size tram. -- Russ

 on: June 27, 2017, 09:05:25 PM 
Started by Design-HSB - Last post by Ray Dunakin
Nice! I like seeing the comparison of prototype scenes with the model.

 on: June 27, 2017, 09:03:08 PM 
Started by Kostas - Last post by Ray Dunakin
Very cool! 

 on: June 27, 2017, 09:00:33 PM 
Started by Kostas - Last post by Ray Dunakin

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