OK...here goes.
Nothing earth shattering or new, but this is how it is starting.
Baswood is cut and sanded to the desired sizes. Some scores are drawn lengthwise along the boards/grain. Additional grain is then added using the Micro-Mark Wire brush. fine steel wool is then used to remove any fuzz (being careful not to round the edges.
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Wood is colored using Valleyo Acrylics. Working "wet" to blend and work the colors. When almost dry, some surfaces are given a slight dry brushing using the lightest color.
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After base wood coloring is thoroughly dry, the surface is wetted with turpentine, then the color coat is apllied in a thick layer. When almost dry, this layer is "peeled" using masking tape. The color coat boards are done in batches/groups, for each batch a new mix of the color is done....but not to the same/previous mix/ratio.....just "eyeballed"...this will give you some variation in the board coloring (as can be seen in the image). Once peeled and dry, some Bragdons powders lightly are brushed over the entire surface....this is then followed by a damp/moist brushing of Mr. Color Thinner.
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...that's all for now....need to get back to the piles of stripwood.
MR.
Oooops, forgot the close-up view.
Still working on this technique...not quite fully happy with it yet....maybe by the time I finish all the wood pieces, I'll get a better feel for it. :)
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MR
Looking good Marc, as usual... but is this a stealth project or am I missing something?
Paul
Why spoil the fun....might as well keep you guys wondering. ;D Just think of it as something for Russ....not physically...but the final project photos.
MR (as usual being a PIA)
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 19, 2009, 10:18:28 PM
Just think of it as something for Russ....
MR (as usual being a PIA)
Oh well, in that case there must be a voluptuous thong-glad young woman involved... ;) ;D
Paul
Marc is very selfish about his thong bikini girls. He never shares. And he's just trying to make me jealous of his wood weathering techniques because he knows I'm still working with paper. This is insufferable. -- Russ
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 19, 2009, 10:18:28 PM
Why spoil the fun....might as well keep you guys wondering. ;D Just think of it as something for Russ....not physically...but the final project photos.
MR (as usual being a PIA)
"Final project photos" and "Marc Reusser" in the same post ? There's an oxymoron if ever there was one !
Marc ,
Chilax , Man , those pieces of stripwood look perfectly acceptable to me . I'm glad you are doing this now as I have various bits of wood work I need to do and watching how you do it will be a great help .
Nick
Do we win a prize if we guess what it is?
Marc, did you experience any problems with the paint below the turp?
How long did it dry? I would think there would be issues?
-Marty
Those boards look great, Marc. I'd like to try that................
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
I forgot how much I hate doing wood.... ;D....this has to be the most excruciatingly painful and time consuming process that I can think of.....YET....I think it has great potential, and resolves a most of the problems/issues I always have with the stained/dyed stripwood methods.
Ia m still playing/learning this approach, and some of the results are a bit towards the"charicaturish"....but I am okay with that for this.....as the whole thing will be that to some extent, just due to the nature of what it is.
So far I have only colored about 1/3 of the wood parts, (working on getting at least 10 pieces done per night ::)) I figured I would try some pics in natural sun light.
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One of the peeled painted walls (about 1-1/2" wide):
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One of the natural wood walls (it's actually photographed upside down, but I didn't want to rotate the image, because it made the shadows confusing to the eye):
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It's amazing how much more the bits of fuzz and grain show in the macro photos.....in real life, it doesn't really show much, if at all.
MARTY:
Yes, I did have issues with the paint under the turp....but not because of the turp, rather due to the tape lifting paint/grain through/below the turp, and exposing some of the wood. (But I had the same issues when using Chucks method with the Silverwood). Though a pain, it was rather easy to resolve by using a small brush and touching a bit of Silverwood to those areas. This is an area that could do with further experimenting...I think Marcels method/use of Gum Arabic might work better than the turp....though brush painting the Acrylic over that stuff can make a mess of it....and great care would need to be taken to not get the GA on the sides or the back (if the backs are to be seen, such as in this project).....with turp, it doesn't really matter, as it dries without any residue. I let the base wood colored boards dry between 2 hours to overnight....the longer dried ones seemed to fare a bit better insofar as not exposing the raw baswood. I think the amount and depth of graining definitely also plpays a part in how much wood the tape will pick up.
MR
I think it is looking great! i would say it doesn't look charichurist at all, except I can't spell it!
Well for someone who claims to hate working with wood, you're doing a fine job... looks great Marc.
Paul
I think this build might have something to do with the Westlake 2010 modeling challange ::) Craig
Complain, complain, complain! But it looks very, very good so what's the problem? You'd never get a comparable result from styrene. Maybe from paper if you were to combine your approach with mine but I'm pretty sure the wood would win, even taking into consideration your skills and talent.
A word about the grain and detail under the macro: It's a fact of life and it's what makes the thing come alive to the naked eye. My experience with paper is that you get closer to scale and it looks great under magnification. But, to the naked eye, it appears to lack dimension and depth. As you have told me more than once: Everything is a compromise. Your technique, even under the macro, seems to minimize that compromise.
Most adequate.
Russ
Well thanks again guys...it's been interesting so far.
Russ I understand what you are saying but it's always scary and perplexing to see. I work with 7x magnification when doing this, and thought I could see it all.....but then come the photos on my new HD monitor,... and WHOA!. Just kind bugs me.....maybe I will need to start take my photos from further back ::)
The color of the grey also seems just a bit on the blue side to me when it dries......so I need to see if I can maybe find one that is a bit in the warmer side.
I actually think you could do this same or almost identical finish on styrene.....I plan to try it on one of my shelf orphan projects (the sewage dispersal car), when I get a chance.
Quote from: mobilgas on December 22, 2009, 09:13:44 PM
I think this build might have something to do with the Westlake 2010 modeling challange ::) Craig
Westlake Modeling Challenge???......I don't believe I am familiar with that ::).......
MR
Hi Marc,
really like that finish. Have been using a similar technique for a while with the exception that the base stain coat is done with turps/ water soluble oils. Advantage being that this doesn't have to dry before going on to the acrylic/ tape part of the process. Attached a pic of some engine house doors in 1/32. Had the same problem with tape pulling splinters through as visible in this shot- clean up is quite easy with a razor blade after the acrylic is dry though.
Looking forward to seeing how the project progresses
So far it looks fantastic to me, Marc! Especially the peeled paint boards -- very realistic.
Marc, the 5x5x7 size- are you conjuring up the ghost of Whit Towers and the NMRA Bulletin privy joke plague from the '70s???
Your boards look great. I wish I had the time to mess around with messing up perfectly good boards.
Has anyone ever duplicated that look of grayed, grainy, flaking paint on styrene parts?
John
Quote from: JohnP on December 25, 2009, 06:51:00 AM
Marc,
Has anyone ever duplicated that look of grayed, grainy, flaking paint on styrene parts?
John
Yes , Emmanuel Nouiallier in HO . Check out the Military Modelling magazine website .
Nick
Thanks guys.
James,
That looks like it's coming along quite nicely. Is this an in progress project, or do you have any finished photos of the engine house?
John,
I think this same method could be done on styrene. I have an upcoming project (shelf orphan revival) where I plan to try the look on styrene.
Nick,
You need to be a bit mor specific in which Military Modeling magazine....Military Modeler, Military Mideler International, Mililtary Modeler in Review...... ;) :)
I made a little bit of progress over the weekend, and started framing this thing up.....man does it take forever. It's no Jaqc's sawmill, but at least it's something ;).....I took this photo outside in direct sun, and the color is very "off", and blown out,...sorry....(yes Russ, I did check the white balance)....no idea why....but it shows the progress. The diagonal brace was 'let-in' to the framing, by clamping the fished framed wall onto the mill table, and milling the proper width/depth diagonal cut into the framing members.
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MR
I like it! The diagonal fitting into notches is an elegant touch.
Regarding the photo, I would guess that direct sunlight was the reason the color was blown out. In this case, shade would have put less stress on your camera's sensor and probably would have resulted in a more accurate representation.
That "macro box" from another thread would be just what you need to get the kind of photos you want indoors or out. Remember? It's a cardboard box with panels cut out for tracing paper.
Russ
Sorry , Marc , I can't be more specific than saying "Military Modelling" magazine website as that is what it is called ! I thought I'd leave looking for the actual website to John as I don't want to make it too easy for him .
"Military Modelling" is a British magazine that has been going for nearly 40 years . Emmanuel Nouiallier has done a number of articles in it over the last year or two . But you don't need to buy the magazine as the articles are on line . I was under the impression that you were aware of that . Pat (Belg) certainly is .
But you could just be joshing with me , and know all along ,
Nick
Marc,
looking very good so far...can I ask if there is a master plan for a layout? Noticed you are doing quite alot of 1/32 stuff.
My doors are a work in progress but I do have a few more bits prepared- some stone wall castings from my own masters which Nick has seen. In fact, Nick, I'll send you some, as promised about a year ago! :-[
Look forward to seeing your progress Marc- thanks for the inspiration...
James
Hi Marc,
Nice job! how did you stick the boards? With ACC or white glue?
Franck
Marc, Glad your makeing progress on this undercover ;) build. The coloring of the wood look's good... but im a little concerned about the paint bleed through on the back side? Craig
Thanks for all the comments guys:
Russ:
I actually have one of those "Photo Studios in a Box"...like MM sells....but I put it away, because the cats seemed to like sleeping in it, leaving hair all over the inside and backgrounds.; So I just got lazy and shot outside. :)
Nick,
Believe it or not there are several Mags with the same words in their title...that's why I was suggesting clarification. :)
James,
Would be interested in seeing pics of your castings sometime whan you get a chance.
I actually have no plans for a layout (I think if I did ever run something some folks I know would die from shock ;D)....the farthest I am thinking is of a possible diorama for 2013....but thats about as realistic as sighting a Yeti. ;D Except for the Bman conversion, I am actually doing everything in 1/35...it works well as a crossover with the military modeling.....though seeing some of the really big stuff here has made me twitchy to try something larger.
Franck,
I use Elmers yellow carpenters glue to glue all my wood.
Craig,
The bleed through (actually it's, seep under) was from me rushing and not thinking at the beginning...I then corrected the problem midway, and got lazy again towrds the end. It happens if not carefull to hold the peice in place when applying the color.....if the piece shifts any paint that gets onto the adjacent surface seeps under, or gets smeared on the back. Luckily, because of the acrylic board coloring method, I can go back and "touch" up most of it, so it will not be noticeable....I did so on the wall that is already glued in place (except for on the arced board above the framing)...still need to do it on the seperate wall. [I'ts much easier to do the touch-up before the boards are applied to the framing.....but I am not always known for my patience or willingness to follow orderly methods. ;D ]
To paraphrase Gene Hunt...."this project is moving about as fast as a spastic in a magnet factory!" ;D
MR
You know, it just hit me (well, a thought did as well as the nice heavy Belgian style ale in front of me this New Year's eve), since I signed on to this forum I have been looking at mostly model photos of old, flaky paint and rotten boards. Same for all the time I spent looking at the big stack of Outdoor/Finescale Railroader I got this summer. I think it is time to go out with camera and take photos of real crapped-up things. I need to get a perspective. Maybe the collection could combined into an art book. Or how about (seriously) an online resource for all modelers- an indexed photo website of real world surfaces and finishes? One could have a rock foundation or painted barn boards on the screen while modeling. It could be used by military, RR, figure, diorama types, etc. Or maybe it's time to take down the bourbon...
John
John,
The info in much the manner you mention pretty much already exists on FLICKR....so have that Bourbon, sit back and browse some of these links (you'll probably be quite a while...so you might want to bring the whole bottle, and some coffe and snacks as well ;) ):
Abandoned
http://www.flickr.com/groups/abandoned/pool/
Aging Images
http://www.flickr.com/groups/95713725@N00/pool/
Rural America
http://www.flickr.com/groups/rural/pool/
Rural Decay
http://www.flickr.com/groups/ruraldecay/pool/
Doors
http://www.flickr.com/groups/thedoors/pool/
Urban Decay
http://www.flickr.com/groups/decay/pool/
Weathered Wood
http://www.flickr.com/groups/90429795@N00/pool/
Tin Roof
http://www.flickr.com/groups/84149689@N00/
Urban Alleys
http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=urban+alleys&page=2&z=t
This one is not FLICKR...an it has gobs and heaps of really outstanding reference photos (all very good quality photography as well):
http://www.pbase.com/jakobe/decay
....and theres tons more.....I am sure Chuck will be able to provide more links.
A thing to do/consider here might be a section like othe Bibliotheque section on the MIG forum.....it is only for posts on refernce material, techniques, etc......no chatting or follow-up posting, or otherwise.
MR
QuoteA thing to do/consider here might be a section like othe Bibliotheque section
I'll second that motion! I've found feferance sections or stickies in other forums to be very helpful.
David
Quote from: David King on December 31, 2009, 10:11:40 PM
I've found feferance sections .......
David
....I see you're having some Bourbon as well ;) ;D
here is another neat set of 33 images of old brick, and wood examples I just came across while looking for something.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theomen666/sets/72157621837355725/
MR
Marc ,
Gene Hunt , from Life On Mars and Ashes to Ashes ? Don't tell us these shows have reached your West Coast backwater already ? How about " He's got fingers in more pies than a leper on a cookery course " ?
I personally wouldn't be worried about paint bleeding through the boards to the inside as I bet that happened plenty of times in real life . I bet the paint was really sploshed on , with little finesse , when it came to repainting time .
I am aware of the various different magazines with the words "military" and " modelling" in their titles . The clue in my post was that I used capitals for both words , implying a specific product ,whereas you used capitals to describe a collection of products when you should only have used lower case . Phew, I'm glad we got that cleared up .
Nick
I guess I better work the intertubes more often. Very impressive Marc. Actually, I believe I will be selling all my hand tools, Dremel, airbrush, styrene and I will spend the rest of my days planning models and thinking about how to weather them. There is enough information there to accomplish my new dream. Plus it will avoid the heartbreak of spilling the Tenax 7R on carefully laid out strips of styrene with the thousands of rivets. Again.
John
Marc, have a glance at this :
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4083
;)
Franck
Had some time to experiment with some details.
Made NBW's, all washers are .005 styrene (3/16" scale inches); top row is made using laser cut bolt heads from VectorCut, bottom using Grandt.
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These were painted Model Master "Flat Black" from a spray can, and then further colored using pigments.
Photo below showing some of the bolt locations (side wall will run all the way down on finished model), I also decided to try adding scale nail-heads to the unpainted side wall boards (unfortunately once you start down this road, you can't really stop or go back :-X)....the nail-heads were made from thin slices of .008 styrene rod, then painted with "Roof Brown". Not sure how I feel about these yet.... there is definite reoom for improvement.:
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An extreme close-up of rotted corner framing area. (most of this will not be visible on finished model :-\)
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John,
Where-abouts do you excersise the innertubes?
Nick,
Yes, Gloria,....that Gene Hunt. There may be a big pond, and a lot of "fly-over" states, between you and me, and we may still be struggling with getting indoor plumbing, but we do thankfully get BBC....so we are treated to Mr. Hunt and numerous wonderful crime programs...Cracker, Wire in The Blood, Second Sight, MI-5, that Jane Tennyson series......and that wonderfully wierd singing detective show about a Casino at some seaside town.
Franck:
Thanks for the link. I once had that, but lost it...so thanks for posting it again.
MR
Looks good Marc, I like the mix of fasteners too, the rotted corner is a nice detail (even though unseen)
Not sure about the nails though....they seem a little big, even for cut nails.
What about using a smaller size in a phosphor bronze wire? or strands of electrical wire?
If my math is correct you need a .005" nail head at the largest.
All in all it is very attractive, I cant wait to get back to working with wood!
-Marty
I have been using 3/8 as a general nail head size. Works out to .00078 in O, so you are way off! (grin)
I found .008 brass to be tricky to install...must be interesting in styrene! I also bought several drill bits from Mcmaster...only broke one so far.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 04, 2010, 07:10:41 AM
I have been using 3/8 as a general nail head size. Works out to .00078 in O, so you are way off! (grin)
This is 1/35, and as I understand it .010= 3/8 at this scale.....so the .008" dia head should be OK for this. :-\ ??? Is my math off somewhere? ???
My next step will by trying to install them....need to get the right sized drill first (and one that cuts real clean and leaves no fuzz at the edges of the hole).....though I do not see pushing such thin styrene onto a hole will be possible.....and as you say that thin of brass is really tricky to work with...what I really hate about the brass at that dia, is there is no easy way to sand it and get a perfectly flat end.
One option if I ever decide to do this again, would be to have some etched or laser cut out of brass....if one could find someone to do them the same way that the MIG bolt heads are done (the brass is etched completely through all around...so no cutting from the sheet is required, everything is held in place on a carrier film on the back of the sheet, and the heads only need to be lifted off)....with this approach , the nail heads could be blackened, then placed on the wood surface, and with a slighly dulled scriber (dulled to the head dia.) could be lightly tapped into the surface...just enough not to cause the wood surface to distort...but enough to make the heads look embedded.
...basically I was just trying to see if it was feasible/worthwhile to do something like this, and get away from the 'hole with bleeding paint" approach. :)...unfortunately, I will have to finish this in this manner now....because it's a bigger pain, to near impossible, to remove them and then touch-up the surface again so it matches again. :-\
MR
MY math is off-forgot this was 35th.
Nice Mark!
I like the different bolt and washers used and the wood aspect...
The nail heads seems to me good, 0.008", give 7mm scale nail heads in 1:35 scale ;),
Franck
Looks great to me!
HEY... I was saving those bricks for my backyard bbq Marc. Jeez... between you and Chuck filching my stuff I can't keep any of my weathered gear in the backyard. ;)
The "mystery project" is looking great... particularly like the close-up shot of the partially-clad framework, rotted corner, bolts and so forth. It'll be a shame to cover it completely... perhaps a broken plank where the frame is rotted out, afterall the nails wouldn't hold in rotted wood...
Nice job on the hand-carved bricks too, but what a chore to build anything of any size. You'd have to train a whole crew of willing thong-clad cuties to carve bricks for you... ;D ;D
Paul
marc saidQuotewhat I really hate about the brass at that dia, is there is no easy way to sand it and get a perfectly flat end.
I just flush cot some .008thou copper wire and I am having a hard time seeing the end let alone sanding it flat!
Michael
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 04, 2010, 12:56:52 AM
Made NBW's, all washers are .005 styrene (3/16" scale inches); top row is made using laser cut bolt heads from VectorCut, bottom using Grandt.
Nice.
How did you make the circular styrene disks? I tried to make a load of such washers in 0-scale once, but had a real hard time getting the disks crisp enough. I Used hole punches for the cutting.
Regards, Håvard H
Havard,
Welcome back from your travels. I hope you had an enjoyable and interesting time.
The disks were made using the Waldron "Micro Punch & Die Set", It's not cheap (around $100) but since I purchased it I have made probably 10,000 rivets and such with it, and it is still giving me nice clean disks. Waldron also makes a second set that has larger sized holes, a few that fall between a couple of the Micro Punch sizes.
I also have the Micro-Mark punch & die set which is another series of sizes, but the disks do not come out nearly as clean or crisp as the Waldron set, but they are OK for certain applications.
There is also a Hex P&D set out there...can't recall at the moment who mages it...but it's also around $100 for about 5 sizes. I have been considering purchasing this set, but the logic tells me that aligning & driving-through a hex could be a bit fidgety to use, and could wear crooked or become ill fitting fairly easily if used a lot and great care is not taken when using it.
MR
Marc,
Have you already tried using those MIG bolt details before? I'm just getting myself organised to have a go at etching some brass parts, and I might have a go at that technique with some of the spare fret spaces. I guess finding a good carrier film that isn't going to be eaten by the ferric chloride is the next trick, but that concept sound good.
Dan
Ok...still trying to nail this down, but I think I am closer.
Using a .0125" drill bit, I drilled holes through the board at all the locations where I wanted nails. Into these holes were then inserted short peices of .080" styrene rod.
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Once the pieces were all in, a small brush was used to paint the ends with some Floquil "Roof Brown", and some pigments.
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The styrene pieces were then pushed flush into the board face, the board was then laid upside down on the work surface, and using a new sharp Xacto blade the extra styrene was carefully cut flush.
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The boards were then turned back over and a very small dab of Silverwood was wicked into the hole around the head, to darken the hole rim.
In this image the bottom 4 boards were done using this new approach, while the upper ones are from the last method.
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This new approach is definitely much less tedious, and fidgety.....one just needs to plan their board an d nail hole layout ahead of time.
Marc
Marc,
this looks very good and a lot simpler to do as the "nails" are a lot easier to handle.
Jacq
The new nails look a little better, too.
So is the greenish cast an artifact of the lighting you used? It can't be the wood or the SilverWood stain and, besides, nothing of yours I've ever seen has that kind of coloration. Did you shoot under fluorescents?
Russ
Quote from: danpickard on January 06, 2010, 03:28:31 AM
Marc,
Have you already tried using those MIG bolt details before?
Dan
Dan,
I have a sheet of them, but have not used them for anything yet. They are beautifully and cleanly etched, but are a bit thinner than what I need/prefer at 1/35, for the applications I have been doing. The disk and washer set that I just ordered should be of use though.
As I am sure you are aware, many of the PE sets for armor kits frequently also often have a selection of bolts, disks, and washers on them....different mfr's do their sets from different metal thicknesses, so it is possible to get a fair range......problem with them though is they always need to be cut from the fret, which leaves the chance of a strange egde condition somewhere, which doing them on carier film completely avoids. Another thing the carrier fill avoids is the condition found on some PE sets where they etch from front and back, and you end up with a small ridge hafway through...ok for some parts where it can be cleaned...but on small fdelly pieces like nuts and washers its a real PIA.
You have peaked my curiosity....what are you making etchings for?
MR
Jacq,
Thanks. Yes, this approach is definitely easier, and gives more consitant results.
Russ,
The greenish cast is most likely due to my lighting. Still haven't re-set-up my photo booth thingy....so just shooting under my work lights, where I recently changed he bulbs to "clear" ones rather than the frosted I used to have/use and shoot under.....It is definitely making the colors come out all wonky....and accentuating the tan, blue and casting a green shade in the images....they are actually much more grey and brown. (I have also violated my own rule of setting the white balance for each shot, and just been shooting with various pre-sets...none of which really corrects the problem.).....No worries...the final images will be shot correctly. ;)
MR
I like it!
I'd like to try it with some blackened wire myself, may be when I get around to doing something else.......
I wonder if wicking the silverwood from behind would yield different/better results?
Thanks for doing the SBS!
-Marty
Hi Marc ;D,
I'm currently working on a locomotive bash project...turning the guts of a couple of Bachmann On30 2-8-0 Consolidation's into a Garratt 2-6-0 0-6-2 (more specifically G41, one of the loco's as featured on the Colac-Beech Forest line that I am centering some of my current modelling around, but the preserved version of the loco is it's sister G42, running on the "Puffing Billy" line in Melbourne, Australia). Its intended to be a fairly good representative loco, not a scale replica (I ain't no master loco builder by a long shot, but there isn't really a readily available model of such a big loco, especially within my budget range, hence the bash). Essentially the saved parts of the Bachmann mech are the chassis (minus a few wheel spacings) outside frame rods, drivers etc, and modified tenders, and will try to reuse the boiler with some new skins over it.
I was going to cut parts from brass for the modification, but thought bugger it, I'll have a go at etching the new stuff. I've been busy for the last few weeks getting my head around looking at positive and negative images in setting up my resist artwork, and think most of it is nearly ready to transfer onto some brass sheets and drop into an etch tank. Providing it works ok, I have a few more ideas I'd like to transfer to brass as well. I thought it was going to involve only some basic etched shapes, but its been a bit addictive doing some of the artwork, and I'm now up to 5 sheets of 4"x10" brass for the project. I was thinkig a bit lazy sort of...why bother trying to cut all that by hand if I can get a chemical to do the job for me?
Providing the first etch works half reasonable, I may start another thread on the project.
Dan
Marc's first two steps are what I have done using blackened brass wire. I also start them in the hole and then paint the tips. Then i press them the rest of the way in.
Marc
How about using stretched sprue of an appropriately colored plastic. You could still paint them, but not have to worry so much if a little paint scraped off while pushing them in.
Tom
Marc:
I think you've nailed it... ;) The newer approach with the styrene nails is very good.
Paul
Paul, I thought you had learned your lesson about bad puns on Jacq's thread. You have compounded your affrontery here. I am utterly at a loss about how to deal with you. Obviously standing in the corner has had no effect. Perhaps others could suggest a more effective disciplinary action. -- Russ
Quote from: Tom Neeson on January 07, 2010, 02:33:31 PM
Marc
How about using stretched sprue of an appropriately colored plastic. You could still paint them, but not have to worry so much if a little paint scraped off while pushing them in.
Tom
Tom:Welcome to the forum.
In general, not a bad idea on the stretched sprue...it also gives you the opportunity to create more/varied sizes if not available in styrene rod. Being the way I am though, the major concern I would have with the sprue, is getting enough consist. dia material to finish an entire project....I am already running around calipering and sorting the mfg, styrene to make sure it's consist. ::) ;D.
You would still need to paint the end tip of the sprue though, as the cut surface tends to be whitish...but it would like yu say maybe help insofar as where a side becomes visible.
Marty:Depending on the scale....I think the styrene has an advantage, as it is easier to flush cut at the back than brass...(unless your brads are not coming all the way through the board)....if you use nippers there is a good chance that they will pull on the brass and sink it in on the front side more than you want...or leave just enough sticking out on the back after the cut that it becomes annoying/interfers when mounting on the framing.
Dan:Sounds like one heck of a project. I do hope you post a thread on it, I for one would be interested in seeing how it is done.
MR
Quote from: finescalerr on January 08, 2010, 01:10:33 AM
Paul, I thought you had learned your lesson about bad puns on Jacq's thread. You have compounded your affrontery here. I am utterly at a loss about how to deal with you. Obviously standing in the corner has had no effect. Perhaps others could suggest a more effective disciplinary action. -- Russ
;D ;D ;D [scrape, scrape, scrape... moving comfy chair into corner in flagrant display of disobedience and confirming wifi connection with laptop, thong-clad cutie just delivering JD on the rocks] You should know by now Russ that you just can't threaten me with a good time... just ask my wife ;) And if you think the puns are bad, just wait till I get started with the spoonerisms, irony and litotes...
Paul [from the corner, waiting for the hot tub to get to temp]
At this point nothing remains but to quote my grandmother: "Oy, Gevult!" -- Russ
Well,....some sorta good news, and some fairly bad news...
The better news.....Rus, these images show the wood coloring muchmore accurately....still off a bit, because I forgot to check the ISO, and it was set at 400 instead of auto....so it made the images grainy, as well as throwing the coloration slightly.
The bad news, is that I spent the evening finishing some more wood pieces , and then using them to continue building the door side and the interior (working on the interior is sort of like working on a ship in a bottle :-X).....when I was ready to call it quits for the evening I realized something was bugging me....so I checked, and appaerntly I had made a mistake when installing the bench.....I made the spacer shim (the piece that would ensire level and even enstallation), 6 scale inches too tall!!!....so now what was supposed to be a standard 18" bench height, ended up being 24" high....
...and to make things worse, at the time of installation I wanted to make sure that this part would not come loose and rattle around the inside, I fortified the joints where they were not visible to viewing with ACC! :-X :-X......so now I have the lovely dillema of either leaving the odd looking seat height (which will really only be visble through the open door)...or trying to fix it by removing it, and then figuring out some way to disguse whatever wood damage occurs due to the ACC..and hide the ACC residue...both of which will become emminantly visble once the seat is lowered. ???
...there is a third option...and that is to toss the bugger in the waste bin and move on to s different project.
At the moment I am leaning towards the second.....but it could still be rubbish bin bound if I feel the resulting damage is too great to correct or conceal.
MR
A simple addition of a "backsplash" (for lack of a better term) after the seat is removed.
BUT, an 18" tall bench seems kinda low to me, 24" is comfortable.
Whatever you decide I'm glad we were able to learn a little on this journey.
You could also make the door barely open?
-Marty
Well, it is a tad high. But then given the generally vertical appearance of the car, it doesn't look too high, it still looks believable IMO. However, knowing your finicky nature, I suspect that you'll tear it out and refit it at the correct height. But I also suspect that you'll find a clever solution to conceal or cover any visible glue damage to the structure, as Marty suggests. Until you tear it out, you're not going to know of the existence or extent of that damage... it may not be as bad as you forecast. It's certainly not worth trashing the whole project though...
Paul
Is the seat height really a "make or break" factor? That seems silly. Nobody but you would have any idea about the "correct" height and it's an interior detail with a completely plausible appearance. For that you'd sack the entire model? Heck, don't even change it!
I'm a nitpicker but you're over the top. Leave it alone and move forward. Believe me, it looks absolutely fine.
Your fumbling photographic technique is altogether a different matter ....
Russ
Let's see if I understand this correctly.
You spend upteen hours making perfectly fine new products,wood, styrene, etc. look old, weathered,
and beat to crap. Now your having the vapors because if you move a board it might leave a mark on the pristeen surface :D ;D ::) ;).
It looks very good by the way.
Rick Marty
I think it looks fine the way it is. No one would ever have known it was "wrong" if you hadn't declared it so.
Thanks guys.....but here's the deal...
A. It's ergonamically wrong.
B. It bugs me...especially with a figure next to it, and you can see the bench hit half-way up his thigh...after all it's a caboose and not a bar.
C. The most important one though,.....if I am going to be a picky, opinionated and abrasive guy, and point out errors/issues in other peoples work, I need to recognize and correct my own. Basically it's a put-up-or-shut-up, credibility, and no double-standard type of deal.
I have also gone and removed 4 more of the boards with the old/original attempt on the nails wall, and replaced them with new boards, using the second method.
Marty:
You been sneeking around in my head again? ;D...that is a sim thought to what I had...it would give me a good place to stuff a bottle of Vodka and an old newspaper behind.
......now if I can just find a 1/35 scale Stolichnaya decal. ;D
Marc
I will be glad to make the decal for you! Of course there will be some study of the subject matter,.....................so please send samples of the desired product and I will gladly get back to you ;D
Gil
Life is short,............ so I'll have another drink please
No newspaper Marc, a Playboy!
Turning a vodka bottle on your new lathe should be easy!
-Mj
Marty, he can't turn a vodka bottle on his lathe because it's a miniature lathe and the full size bottle won't fit on it. But he might be able to turn some small diameter acrylic rod to represent a miniature vodka bottle.
Oh, that's what you meant? Never mind ....
ssuR
I do believe it's time for Russ to go the corner.... (just not mine, ok... it's already crowded over here) ;D ;D
Paul
Quote from: lab-dad on January 11, 2010, 04:56:21 AM
No newspaper Marc, a Playboy!
Turning a vodka bottle on your new lathe should be easy!
-Mj
I was thinking more along the line of the "London Times" or "Der Spiegel"...afterall, despite it's appearance, it's a caboose and not an outhouse ;)
...I am working on emptying a sample bottle, so I can accurately measure for prototypical wall thickness. ;D
Gil,Thanks for the offer....I may take you up on that, If I can't come up with anything adaptable from my scrap decal bin.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 11, 2010, 08:18:35 PM
I was thinking more along the line of the "London Times" or "Der Spiegel"...afterall, despite it's appearance, it's a caboose and not an outhouse ;)
...I am working on emptying a sample bottle, so I can accurately measure for prototypical wall thickness. ;D
Marc
Aha... I knew this was a drinking club (albeit a remarkably well-informed one) with a modelling problem.
Well since you're working your way through the research phase on the vodka bottle project determining prototypical wall thickness and so forth, I can only assume that your planning on making the scale bottle hollow (could easily be done by turning the bottle in two halves, top and bottom. The label could cover and hide the join, not that I've given this any thought...), which means that you're going to have to save a few drops of that elixir to fill the scale bottle. Of course, then you'll have to turn a scale cork, but that seems a minimal challenge...
Paul
Last night my little dude finished the roof sheathing, and the other side wall, and lowered the bench. The roof framing members interloc into the blocking on the top plates.
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Other than a couple of small interior wood planks, a couple of Floor joists underneath the general/rough wood portion of this project is complete.......next it's on to making the window, door and their repective frames and trim.
MR
Looking good Marc... how did you resolve the glue remnants after lowering the bench?
Also, as an aside, I notice the crew member is wearing flood pants, which is probably a good thing considering the leaks in the roof... ;D
Paul <heading back to the corner...>
Marc,nice color in the wood and that is a good way to do a removable roof.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks guys!
Paul:
As shown in the poorly lit attached photo, To hide the glue I used that concept of a "splash" type board on both sides (as it was only fastened on the sides). This hides the glue residue, and because the bench seat extends almost to the wall sheathing, it creates kind of a tray/cubby in that area where I plan to place some crew-clutter.
What's wrong with those pants???? I wore pants like that all through elemtary school! :-\
On a neat note and likely of minimal interest in case anyone runs into a sim issue like this, instead of trying to get into the small space with my hand and using a blade, chisel or such to remove the bond between the seat/blocking and the vertical studs, I used an approx 3/16" x3/8" piece of styrene that was smooth on the ends, set it vertically on the seat at one side (so it projectred about an 1" beyond the top of the caboose), close/tight to the wall framing, and with a small hammer hit the top of the styrene firmly and quickly downward in a clean vertical blow...then repeated on the other side. this sheard the wole seat and mounting block assemly clean off the studs in one complete piece, without any damage to the walls or anything else. The whole seat and blocking assembly was then simply glued back in at the correct height.
MR
Everything looks just outstanding except one floorboard deep under the bench. It projects about a scale 1/16-inch too high and probably will require scrapping the whole project. Oh, well. Easy come, easy go. -- Russ
Marc,
as with all your builds really neat and clean and a great SBS.
Sure is tempting me to have a go at this strange new fangled stuff called wood instead of the more traditional plastic I usually stick to
Gordon
Marc,
Great job! Coloring is perfect. And does Marty know your almost done with a project??
What's wrong with those pants? I wore pants like that all through elemtary school!
So that's what's wrong with you!!! ;D
Jerry
Hi Marc,
I know I have gatecrashed your threads before but this time only doing it to show your hard work producing these SBS is used by us watchers.
2 shots of the floor of my workmans shed "on wheels", followed your techniques plus have been experimenting with some of the MIG powders .... pleased with the colour effect although these shots certainly prove I am no carpenter ( floor size 3" x 2")
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The "hole" is for me to fit a concrete hearth for a stove to fit on ... will be practicing with someone else's SBS for the concrete !
Gordon
Its looking really good, Marc!
EDIT: Sorry, I was too tired yesterday to do the write-up to go with the photos,...so here it is now...better late than never ;).
The usual 'home rolled" corrugated made from alum. baking pans was not scale appropriate, and I did not feel like making a jig to make my own for this project, so I used some Builders In Scale 'O-scale' (1/48), material I had on hand. The corrugations space out pretty good compared to some of the real world material, however instead of being perfectly smooth waves, the material has a bit more of a kinked/jagged look to it....it is also much thinner than the home rolled.
The material was etched using a Ferric-Chloride solution (Printed Circuit board Etchtant) [yes, I have heard of people using Drano to do this as well....but I did not care to try and wait several days to see if that worked]. Contrary to what Gil assumes, it was done outside, wearing long sleeves, gloves, goggles and a respirator with a 'gas' filter.
All pieces were cut to the reqiured size prior to etching.
Since this is a proces most modelers are familiar with I will skip some of the etching explanation.
I always make sure that I have/etch at least 50% more material than needed. This way you will be sure to have enough useable pieces in the end (if you have extra you can just save them for the next project). The image below shows some of the pit-falls with this method. the piece on the left was left in the solution too long, and this began to disolve completely; the piece in the middle was not left in long enough, and shows some of the un-etched alum surface., the piece on the right also shows some un-etched area, but it also shows spots where air bubbles prevented the etchtant from coming in contact with the surface (when when the piece is in the etching solution you want to tap and turn it with several times, using tweezers, to prevent this).
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After rinsing the pieces several times with water, each piece is then "scrubbed" on both sides, in order to obtain that nice warm-grey look of oxidized corrugated metal. The scrubbing is done in a flat enameled artists tray, using an old toothbrush with cut-down bristles. The left side of the piece is unscrubbed, while the right has been scrubbed. Once scrubbed the pieces are again rinsed in some cold water to remove any residue [NOTE: Th scrubbing not only servers to obtain the grey color, but also removes any residual etchtant, which can continue to slowly eat away at the material over time.)
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This image shows a piece before and after "scrubbing".
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Next step was to add rust to the panesls I wanted to represent the type of rusting often seen where the ridges rust before/more than the valleys. To do this I used a small piece of fine sponge (the kind used in the cheap/inexpensive "sponge brushes" available at most paint and hardware stores), and MIG "Standard Rust Effects". The rust coloring was dabbed on in several layers (allowing for about 10 mins. dry time between)
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Once the Rust Effects was dry, the piece was curved to shape, and given a light dusting of CMK "Dark Dust" pigment across the individual piece, this was then "washed" over using clean "Odoerless Thinner" (I used the odorless thinner, because it is less aggressive tha regular thinner, and thus does not attack the "rust effects as easily/quickly) [In another application I might consider sealing the "Rust Effects" before doing the pigment wash.)
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When all dry, the pieces were glued to the sub-roof using thick ACC.
The bright/Shiny spots on the roof seen in the images is not exposed metal, it is shiney/not fully dried residue from the turpentine......this will not be visible in the finished model.
MR
I like the homage to the old wordless workshop articles. What did you use to affix the corr.?
Were you wearing eye protection? Good boy with the gloves, but it looks like you were inside the house? Boy it's no fair! Jerry gets to bring axels into his living room and you get to paint and use etchant inside the house? And I am the one who lives in B.F.E.
Nice job the color looks great.
Gil
Come on , Marc , speak . I've got a pile of corrugated waiting for the etching treatment and I'd love to know what you used to get the finish on yours .
Nick
" I love the smell of etchant in the morning . It clears the sinuses a treat ! "
Looks great Marc.
Can add to the questions - noticed a few people using sponges as you showed in your SBS, its something I would like to try but have struggled to get hold of that type of sponge, looks open and wiry, all the stuff I can find seems way too dense ..... any suggestions as where I could get hold what you are using would be appreciated.
Thanks
Gordon
Really nice color effect Marc!
What did you use for the corrugated?
Franck
Thanks guys. I went back and addied all the SBS text into the post if interested.
Gordon,
Great coloring and look to the wood. Can you tell me a bit more about the colors you used, and your application method.
I really think you should start posting SBS threads on your projects here in the forum. Starting with the crane..... ;)
Marc
Mark, thanks for info .... " sponge brushes", talk about obvious I really am getting stupidier as I get older.
Thanks for the positive comment on the wood colour, photos can lie ... don't look so brown in real life which is not surprising when you consider the colours I used Vallejo German trk blk (333), German highlight Fieldgrau (338) and Hull red (146) ...... your technique applied on wet wood then well watered down colour and mixed wet on wet. Afraid the very technical part was rubbing in the colour with my fingers! Final finishing with rubbed in MIG Ind city dirt pigment and light dusting of MIG black smoke pigment after nail holes were punched .... here are a couple of very rough shots in natural daylight
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(concrete hearth based on Chuck's recent SBS)
SBS, well your right I should be trying to put something back into this forum after the amount I have got out of it but you have seen most of the crane photos and the quality is not there ...... been trying to improve my photo set up and it is getting better, lighting is still not right yet! ..... may start with the "road roller"
Gordon
Marc, the rust coloring on your corrugated metal looks great. I'll have to give that method a try. How did you manage to curve the corrugated sheets, without it kinking?
QuoteContrary to what Gil assumes, it was done outside, wearing long sleeves, gloves, goggles and a respirator with a 'gas' filter.
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Marc etching corrugated or: The modern modeler, during small Finescale RR projects ;D ;D
Marc, looks very good, luckily I have finished most of the mill's roof... ;) ;D ;D
Jacq
Ooooh....I have to get me a mask like that!
Quote....looks very good, luckily I have finished most of the mill's roof...
It's never too late to tear it all off and start over if you want... :P ;) ;D ;D ;D
MR
QuotePosted by: gfadvance
........ but you have seen most of the crane photos and the quality is not there
Oh what total BS. :) And speaking of the crane.....what's happening with the painting on that?
MR
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 19, 2010, 01:54:05 PM
Oh what total BS. :) And speaking of the crane.....what's happening with the painting on that?
MR
Right that's me sorted out and put in my place ................. OK will post not SBS but at least the sequence of the crane build tomorrow, and its still not painted as I can't make up my mind what colour to paint it?
You could not possibly be having a dig at me for not finishing a model, .......... no you wouldn't never think that way ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 19, 2009, 10:00:33 PM
OK...here goes.
Nothing earth shattering or new, but this is how it is starting.
Baswood is cut and sanded to the desired sizes. Some scores are drawn lengthwise along the boards/grain. Additional grain is then added using the Micro-Mark Wire brush. fine steel wool is then used to remove any fuzz (being careful not to round the edges.
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Hi Marc,
I checked the Micro-Mark website but there seem to be 2 variants. One with a brass and one with a steel (?) brush.
Could you help me out which one to use ? Based on the picture I suspect the steel (?) version, but I want to be sure before I order one.
Thanks in advance,
Marc B
I would get the steel and the brass!
I use the steel all the time, wish I had got the brass also.
When you order get the fiberglass one too (and refills!)
-Marty
Sure Marc R will give you a full and detailed answer but in my experience the steel one works better on both wood and plastic ... I find the brass too soft to work effectively.
Would agree with Marty get all three ... the steel for "graining", brass for burnishing ... really good on white metal kits and the glass fibre for cleaning/ burnishing plastic ... especially useful for rounding nuts cut from plastic and taking the edge off plastic plates/strips where you may have a slight raised edge after cutting, etc.
Oh, and also agree about ordering some spares while you are at it
Well...seems that everything has been answered ship shape. ;D
I like the steel....hate the brass (to soft for my needs...and I have no idea what "burnishing brass" is).
Definitely get the fiberglass one, along with refills. The fiberglass one is one of those indespensible tools on my bench...I use it constantly for anything from fine sanding, sharpening/cleaning of detail areas, ...to cleaning "grained" wood and styrene. I also use a lot to clean any shiny residue left on styrene surfaces from the liquid solvent, and as Gordon mentioned to easing edges, and corners...esp. on punched rivets. I even use it to clean brass surfaces and solder joints. Definitely one of those "must have" tools...that once you start really using it you cant see how you managed without.
One major caveat though....this is fiberglass, and produces tiny little glass splinters, that can be really irritating when they get in your skin (or if you have pets into them and their system). I always make sure to work over either my waste bin, or over a piece of paper that I then fold up and dispose of. If you work over a cutting mat, make sure you brush the remaining splinters into the trash before resting your hands on it, and instead of blowing the splinters off the model piece use a spare soft brush to brushh them off into the waste bin. (It's a great tool to let the kids get hold of...once they get those splinters in them, they will surely think twice about touching stuff on your bench again.)
MR
I agree... that fibreglass eraser is extremely useful. You can also pick them up at some auto parts stores and auto-body suppliers, often at a much better price. Worth checking. They're great for cleaning up brass prior to and after soldering, removing corrosion, paint, glue, fine texturing, easing edges... just about anything. Auto-body guys use them for feathering out chips in paint and so on prior to touch up.
And yes, definitely watch out for the splinters. They are incredibly painful and being so small and clear, hard to locate to fish out of your fingers. Like Marc, I work over a piece of scrap paper to catch the splinters. It's much easier than trying to clean the workbench off afterwards and speaking from experience, I always missed the one splinter that perhaps days later would leap up and stab me... :)
Paul
@ Marc B
Piet Peetoom of GMenS also sells the fiberglass eraser. He is also on Ontraxs this weekend in Utrecht. Maybe he might also have one with brass, but that you'd better ask him.
Leon
I decided to switch gears on this one for a bit and start work on the skip, that the body will sit on.
The first part will be doing the skip frame. This will consist of 4 pieces of .010" (.254mm) thick styrene.
The top and bottom pieces will be cut from sheet styrene. While the intermediate/vertical pieces will be .156" and .125" strip styrene.
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The vertical pieces will be used to create two a stepped 'ring" of sorts. The bottom piece is to be set onto a flat surface, into which (along the interior edge/face) is glued the .156" strip. Once this had set, I the to piece will be slipped over the 'ring', the assembly flipped over, the ring and top piece pressed flush with eachother and glue apllied. Once this had set the .125 strip will be inserted and wrapped between the top and botom pieces, tight/laminated to, the already in place .156 'ring'. this will en effect result in a stepped/interlocing joint that will provide added strength.
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This will be the resuting frame. The seam line shown between the top/bottom pieces and the vertical .156 'ring" will not be visible on the finished piece.
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The resulting frame section scales out to about 5.75" tall and 3" deep/wide.
MR
Interesting construction! How do you plan to shape the vertical components?
I built the part tonight (pictures will follow at some point)....worked OK....some stuff learned for next time.
Ray:
I did the inside (.156") vertical pice by cutting a strip that was just slightly longer than I was going to need. The bottom pece was set onto a steel plate. One end of the vertical piece was then set vertically against the inside of the bottom piece, and held vertical (& tight) to the interor edge of the bottom with a small machinists block, while liquid cement was applied. [I loosly rolled the entire strip so that it would fit coumpleteli inside the bottom piece, thus eliminating any 'parallel/flush issues when gluing]. I then worked around the bottom piece gluing the strip in place....on straight sections I used the block, in the radius corners I used a suitably sized piece of steel rod, to hold the strip vertical and in place till set. when I got back to the beginning, I just carefully cut the strip to fit.
After the initial .156 piece was set, the rest was pretty easy and straight forward...the top was slid on and glued in place, the inner strip (.125) was wrapped and glued in place, making sure to have the joint at an end, so that it will be hidden by the coupler/buffer assembly. [you want to glue the top and bottom in place before you add the .125 strip, as it will create/hold the proper form/shape...if you wrap the .125 strip before the top, you will will bond/fix in place any flex and natural distortion of the .156 strip and the ensuing tension of the .125 strip, thus never getting the top piece to properly seat or contain the flex without gaps or deforming........at least not when working with really thin material.)
BTW...this approach could easily be used to build skip frames out of cardstock....esp. if they were laser cut.
MR
The rendering looks so good, building the thing would seem an anticlimax. Very clever construction. -- Russ
Did you cut the top & bottom pieces by hand?
-Mj
More please, more! Wow.
QuoteMore please, more! Wow.
...Oh, stop it. :-* ;)
Marty:Yes, the top and bottom pieces were cut by hand. I drew the plan view in CAD, printed it out, and used 3M "Photo mount" (the lower tack stuff..not the "777") to laminate it to 2 pieces of .010 sheet styrene (that had also been laminated together with the Photo Mount". The "assembly" was then "rough trimmed" with an Xacto to within about .010 -.020 of the drawing/lines....then final trimmed and shaped with the disk sander. The inside was then cut out with an Xacto, and cleaned-up with the occasional scrape from the edge of the blade, and cut-down sanding sticks. It's not perfect...I have some uneven width areas of up to .004...but it will do for this, as most of the frame will be hidden under the body.
Here is a quickie shot of it as I was heading out the door.
How do you separate the two pieces of sheet styrene after cutting out the shapes? How much trouble is it to remove the photo mount adhesive?
You should be a professional! -- Russ
Ray:
The photo mounted pieces seperate very easily....I just slid the Xacto between them and pulled it along the parts. No sweat. The paper came of easily as well. It does leave a residue, which can be scrubbed off using a paper towel dipped in 90% Isoprpyl alchohol. I did something that I would probably not do again...but at the time I thought it was just brilliant...I left the residue on the parts, so I could "tack" them down to the steel plate while gluing the vertical .156 strip in place........since the assebled frame at this scale, and step in the process, is still fragile, it was not the most fun to remove the residue after assembly.
Russ:
...umm, a professional what? (hopefully not the thing most people think I am. ;) ;D )
MR
Thanks Marc,
Kinda what I figured.
Frame turned out sweet!
Gives me an idea about photo etched!...
-Marty
Marc can you send me that cad drawing so I can see if I can photo etch them??? I asume that they are 1:32/1:35 two foot???
thanks
Gil
OOOOHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
Gil, can I be your new BFF?
-Marty
Sure Marty you can be my new bestest BFF, I will need brass machined parts that can be your part of the new partnership ; - )-)
Gil
Before you two guys get all huggy and happy, and have some kind of spooning fest, let me throw this little wrench into your plans.....
Scale is NOT 1/32........and it's not 1/35 2-foot......it is 1/35 690mm gauge.....meaning it is 1/35 scale...pretending to be (with much eye squinting and ignorance of fact) 600mm gauge...using HO/On30 scale track and mechs.
The inside of the frame width is 2'-8" in 1/35 scale...and 2'-4.5" in 1/32.
.....So it likely won't work for what you have planned. To top it off, it is not a standard skip length...but rather based on a drawing of an oddball unit....and then length adjusted to achieve the look I wantd/need for the caboose body.
That all said, if you want a CAD drawings for a skip, frame, body, etc., and you know mfr, or have access to prototype drawings...or want me to extrapolate from a catalog image...so you can do PE parts, Let me know....would be happy to. You might want to check with Jerry at FMW to see if you can get some info on the journal boxes and wheels he's working on so that they could be worked into/used with, the design.
MR
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages19.fotki.com%2Fv285%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Fnospooningnohotlinking-vi.jpg&hash=47a05dd8b31df55ae08b4b6ce446783e7d8a6233)
Gil, is that your hand on my brass?.....
Please! I'm from a "RED" state! Only our most prestigious Senators do those things, and in a Minneapolis restroom, never in my home state!
Tell Me Blind Willy why our esteemed friend would build: "Scale is NOT 1/32........and it's not 1/35 2-foot......it is 1/35 690mm gauge"
Knowing that the rest of us: want to build something more normal? Just like Marc, swimming upstream, when it's spring time and the water is flowing downstream!
Oh well we'll have to find someone else to make us a correct drawing, for something more universal
Gil
Blue man from a red state
I'll have a look in my freight car encyclopedia and see if there are any AMERICAN ones we can use/copy.
-Mj
Dudes....I have amerikun ones...evene ones that were shipped all over the world.
Many companies here built some kind of skips and small dump cars....many of them unknown in the lareger RR community, because they were small non RR companies that built them as part of their other product lines targeting road builders, quarries, mines, construction, agriculture, etc.....that had nothing to do with typical RR.
It might behoove you to look at something from a company like that, then if you do not do an exact and faithful representation.....you won't be hanging out there in the firing line.....like you might ifyou did O&K, Decauville, Hunslet, Magor, Ameican Car & Foundry, etc.
Luckily I have catalogs with stuff like this :P ;D....but since you seem to have decided to go it on your own..... ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Abandon? ??? You're the one swimming upstream! We were just here going with the flow, you're the one who went all specific and Joe prototype on us! :'(
Gil
feeling abandoned
A little bit of progress on this.
The buffer areas and channel frame brace have been added. Rivets are from Tichy.
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Some small detail parts for the interior:
Toolbox and First-Aid box are scratched from styrene with PE details from the scrap box. White Metal tools from some now defunct company. Jacks and plastic tools from the scrap box (ex-armor kit pieces). Bottle was turned from clear acrylic in the Dremel tool, using an Xacto blade, then coated with a layer of Future, label is a decal from the scrap box.
Rags are made from Magic Sculpt. Roll of paper (or whatever it will be) made from Milliput. Bucket is a PE kit from 'Hauler', w/ new wire handle.
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MR
I just read through three posts on three different projects. You seem to have found some time to model and paint. Nice work. -- Russ
gasp........ ;D
Here some poor quality quick snappies of some progress on the detail parts.....
Got a bit overzealous with the chips ::)........chipping on the jacks was done using the hairspray method. Chips on the box were hand painted using Vallejo acrylics. Right Jack is for one of the gas mech projects, the left jack and the box are for the caboose project.
MR
Chipping looks OK to me.
very nicely done .....................Craig
Very chipper. -- Russ
Looks very much used.
What happened to your razor??
Jacq
Marc
Nice job on the detail parts.
Jerry
Quote from: jacq01 on April 08, 2010, 01:42:41 AM
What happened to your razor??
Jacq
He probably chipped it...
Nice job on the jacks Marc.
Paul
Nice chipped paint Marc!
Thanks again guys.
Well....here's another 3 hours of work. I tried to get the ring stain on top to be more subtle....but using the artists oils for it, they kept seeping out into the dust pigment too much and disappearing/blending....so I finally resorted to using Tamiya "Smoke" to paint it on.
The red paint was done in two layers to get an old, blotchy/mottled look. Base color was done slightly brighter (a mix of Tamiya red/white/yellow acrylic colors thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner).....the surface was then lightly dampened (brush applied distilled water)....and sprinkled randomly with random ground sea-salt. A slight amount of blue was then added to the existing red paint mix in the AB cup, and shot over the salted surface. When dry, the salt was gently scrubbed/washed off, using a soft wet brush. Scrathes & chips were painted on using Vallejo "German SS Camo Black-Brown". (most real toolboxes tend to rust/chip a bit more reddish than the color I used, but I had to adjust, because a redder tone tended to disappear too much against the red color of the box). This was followed by a filter of Rembrandt "Light Red" oil paint. Dust and grime is CMK "Dark Dust" & "Dark Rust" (which is almost black) pigment, applied with Odorless Turpentine. Decal is from a Microscale gas station set for 1/48 scale (the surface was faded by sanding with 1200 grit sandpaper prior to removal from backing).
Box size is approx .25" x .75" (6,5 x 18 mm)
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MR
cool.................
Jacq
This is all so very nice. Can,t wait to see it all together.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
The picture is quite nice......but........
the instructions are awesome! Thanks for the tutorial!
-Marty
Very nice tool box Marc... I'm looking forward to seeing the finished piece with all these great details in place. Good SBS on the paintwork too... very informative.
Paul
I like the toolbox look's good......nice weathering.....and enjoyed the How-To........Craig
Better and better!
Really nice tools box Marc!
Franck
Thanks guys.
Below is some more stuff from last night. I think I am slowly getting a small taste of the kind of "detail hell" Chuck and Spencer must go through when building their scenes ;) ;D
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Marc
Man, that is looking nice! I really like those PE buckets. The sad part is this will all get used up so quickly, with so much more space to fill.
Someone ought to do a bucket in 1/2" scale. Ken
Chuck,
PE Bucket???
Carlo
Thanks Chuck,
Yeah...I don't know how you do it...the more details one creates, the more seem to be needed. Worse yet, everything I am making (except fro the link pins, and the crank) will end up inside the the caboose and be barely visible.
Carlo,
PE = Photo Etch. This was from one of the 'Aber' PE sets. (will check the set number if you want)
Marc, the paint job on the castings is very nice. What material are they made of?
Thanks Frederic,
The pry bar, shovel and wrench are some white metal castings from the scrap box, the hammer is resin (from a Verlinden kit), the starter crank is scratch built from brass and styrene, the coupler pins are scratch from brass.
MR
Very nice tools Marc. They may be hidden from view inside, but you know they're there and perfection is in the details. It's always a delight to explore a model and find all sorts of details that would otherwise be missed without careful examination.
Paul
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Marc
Very nice indeed. Those are great detail parts and the painting is so realistic.
Jerry
Nice job Marc. Ship me a shoebox filled with those details please. I'll pay the postage.
Don
Marc,
Good stuff!
What color(s) are the inside of the bucket?
Did you solder the seam or glue?
-Marty
I think its time for another Reusser Productions Video! When can we expect that?
The Shovel is just unbelievable! We need some SBS on all these details or a video please
Great job, really!
Gil
Wow Marc, wonderful job! I like very much the render of polished rusty metal on these tools...You can find too PE bucket from Plus Model :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.plusmodel.cz%2Fpicture%2Fpic4029.jpg&hash=c9ce3b500108a4b9862ba62b14342ad6eea1af65)
Franck
PS : 1:35 scale is also a nice scale for detailed scenes ;)
Just checked this thread first time in a while. Marc, those are excellent surface treatments you've developed for aged wood and metal. The chipping, wear, grime, fading and oxidation, all very believable and natural looking.
Dave
Thanks for all the kind and encouraging words...much appreciated...keeps me from slipping into total madness.
The one cool thing about doing a variety of small parts like this is that it really lets you experiment with some variations on techniques, and build your skills in quick short exercises....thus for me...actually finishing something...even if it's only a 1/2" long.
Don,
......and I just ran out of shoeboxes. ;D
Marty,
The Bucket was soldered. I used paste solder and a torch...worked like a dream.
The interior is painted (airbrushed) with Tamiya XF-54 "Sea Grey", then given a slight pin wash in the ridges and bottom corners using ABT-502 "Wash Brown", then the whole interior was given dusted with a mix of Bragdons "Dust Bowl Brown" & "Grimy Gray"....which was then sealed in place with some MIG "Pigment Fixer" (mostly to hold the larger amount of "dirt" in the bottom, in place).
Outside of bucket was airbrushed with Vallejo #837 "Sand Light", and chipped using Vallejo #867 "Dark Blue Grey".....then pin washed with the ABT-502 oils.
Gil,
No videos for me....my middle name is not "hollywood". The shovel was blackened with "Blacken-it", then painted with Vallejo acrylics, the dirt is a layerd application of MIG & CMK pigments fixed in place with MIG "Pigment fixer, which when dry, was then scrubbed off with my finger tip to expose the bare white-metal below.
Franck,
...aughhh...more buckets to try! :-X.....they actually look the same as the Aber set (but whoever built the ones for the photo below seemed to have even a harder time of it than I did :D )....
The polished metal was done using MIG "Gunmetal" pigment, applied with my fingertip or a small make-up sponge.
....and I don't know what the word "scene" means ;) ;D ;D ;D......maybe something like "They can be scene if you look in the box in my cabinet/closet" ?
MR
Marc,
How do you apply the "fixer", is it brushed on over the powders? Do you like it? Does it alter the look of the powders at all? Just received a couple of pigment sets and want to order some more 502 Abt oils, wondering if I should get the fixer while I am at it.
Thank you and nice little bits you have created there,
Tom
Tom,
I have not used it extensively, but so far I like the fixer and have had no problems with it. For thicker layers/amounts of pigment like on the shovel or in the bucket corners I found that it sometimes helps to do it in 2 or so layered applications [IE. Pigment>Fixer>Dry, then repeat). The fixer is a petroleum based product (as it notes that it is flammable) so you might need to seal models that are painted with oil based paints like Humbrol or Model-Master, with an acrylic clear coat prior to applying (can't say for sure though, as I havent run into this), It dries completely matte, and does not seem to change the color of the pigments......though that might change depending on the pigments used. I pretty much use only MIG, CMK, Bragdons, with the occasional Agama & Andrea...and all have worked fine. So far I have also had no issues with "rings/edges" when it dries (like one often gets from Turpentine).
I apply it with a soft brush (size depending on task/area), I soak up some of the fixer into the brush, then touch the brush to the edge(s) of the area/surface I want to fix the pigment on, and let it wick/flow out onto the surface and into/through the pigments. On big surfaces you may have to do this from a couple of sides/points.
Bottom line, I would recommend it, and suggst you try it. (If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you.)
On that note, I also really like the ABT-502 oils...so far in the applications I have used them, they driy almost completely matte (except for the "Grease & Oil" color, which dries with a sheen.
...one more thing re. the fixer.....I have also mixed a small amount directly with some pigments (in a small tin/lid) and then stippled the micture onto surface to create a heavier, chunky, or textured look. If you do this with a stiffer brush you can also create mud/dirt splatter by spraying it off the brush and onto the surface with an airbrush. (Practice first though).
HTH,
Marc
Hey thanks Marc,
The fixer does sound useful, especially for RR models which might get a bit more handling than a static armor model. I have a few of the Abt 502 colors, but haven't used them yet. They seem to be mostly opaque, which is nice, compared to the typical artist oils which come in opaque, semi opaque, semi-transparent, transparent, etc...
Anyways, thanks again,
Tom
After returning from a wild night of bowling last night, I finally started building the door. I wanted it to appear as if they had simply used an old/salvaged door and frame from a building.
The door is built out of Basswood sheet and strip. It is a scale prototypical 1-3/4" thick (about 43mm).
This is one side so far immediately after receiving the peeled paint (will receive some additional weathering). The screw holes at the lock came out a bit big...but hopefully will not be so apparent when all is done.
It's not perfect, but I just wanted to get this thing moving again.
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Marc
Looking good Marc... I like the adaptive reuse idea for an old door. Should fit it quite well with the overall feel of the model.
"Wild night of bowling..." :o Thats what we used to call an evening of low-brow olympics... ;)
Paul
How did you peel the paint? Masking tape, scuffs, and a thin reapplication of more paint? It also looks as though you might have used a tiny brush to paint on a few peels but it's really hard to tell. -- Russ
Thanks guys.
The project is getting a bit long in the tooth, so I am trying to hurry/rush it , and thus sacrificing quality a bit.
Russ: You are correct, the door is peeled with tape. But only one application of paint was used. I used a Vallejo acrylic, and just went over the door till I had the coverage I wanted some places I went over it twice (no drying in between)...and the resulting look is what came of it. I didn't paint in any flakes afterward, though I did do a tiny amount of touch-up in two of the iside panel corners, where the paint came off too much/wrong.
Quote from: Roughboy on May 01, 2010, 08:14:39 PM
Thats what we used to call an evening of low-brow olympics... ;)
Paul
I feel it's beneficial to every now and then get out amongst the common folk, and partake in their activities. ;) ;D ;D
Ok Here is the finished door (sans hinges). I should have mortised the latch box plate at the door edge, but was too lazy. The latch box plate and the door knob plate were made out of styrene strip. The raised circular detail is a MIG PE washer.
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MR
Very nice!
Much better with the weathering.
That first photo of the door had me worried :o
-Marty
Very nice doors. The buckets are of top quailty perfectection is one of your finer points.
Jerry
Much better since you weathered the door.....but the latch plate doesn't look right not being mortised into the door :( Craig
Quote from: mobilgas on May 03, 2010, 02:16:51 PM
.....but the latch plate doesn't look right not being mortised into the door :( Craig
I agree.....still debating about trying to pry the part back off, and odering a .030 mill bit so that I can cut it in (doing it with a chisel by hand won't really work that well, because there are 3 layers of wood laminated together there, and the glue between the layers will cause issues...not to mention trying to get a consitant .005" depth).
...for now I am hoping that it will just get visually lost once it's part of the rest of the model.
Marc
Marc, couple of suggestions for the door
Have you thought about putting another couple of top coats on and lifting these - most the doors I have seen being recycled look as if they have had multiple coats of paint over the years, this may help the aged/weathered appearance? (also think top coats should be a darker shade not seen many old doors with "white paint")
A completely useless suggestion as it is now to late .... but I have produced mortice's in doors by using multiple layers in the construction of the door ,notching the middle layers where latch/lock is to go then adding outer layers to make sides of mortise ..... used same technique for recessing hinges, etc.
Should add that this technique means you have to build 2 doors, the 1st is the one you build and then remember you need to add the mortice's etc ;)
Gordon
Marc ,
I agree with Gordon about the extra layers of paint , but not at the expense of getting the job done .
I wouldn't lose much sleep about not letting the mortice lock into the door . I think it looks better that way as it adds to the effect of a make-do-and-mend door that has been reused and rehung by a hamfisted non-carpenter .
Now , what hinges are you going to put on it ? I suggest rising butts !
Nick
Just close the door!
Chuck's comment shows a level of intelligence that should bar him from further posts ... sorry missed out "high"
As for Nicks comment "getting the job done" personally I don't think there is any need to use that sort of language when talking to Marc!
Bye
Crack the doorframe in way of the lock......
Jacq
I agree, let the latch stay as it is. Often doors were planed down when they swelled up and they never bothered to recess the latch portion because it would mean having to change the handle setback also on that type of mortised lockset. Way too much work. We carpenters are a lazy bunch.
Thanks for all the input guys.....will take it under advisement.
A couple of rationalizations: In my restoration work I actually come across a lot of old doors...and believe it or not...most are white, off white, or cream.....especially the interior doors. Was worried about adding more layers (now it appears there were two), because it would make the finish seem "goopy", and un-naturally thick for scale effect (were this a metal surface....or even were the model part plastic.... it would definitely be do-able....but the method and technique on wood at this scale is not as refined....or at least I havent experimented to try and get it there.) Sorry...no trick hinges ;)....roght now just trying to figure out how to mount the Aber working PE ones so they don't come loose at some point......
...and Chester...thanks most f all for the great way justify the latch issue. ;D
In the meantime.....I decided that a caboose might need a lantern. I modified a 1/48 scale grant line oil burning headlight by extending the bottom, grinding out the interior/reflector more, adding a wick stem, adding a handle using some brass wire and left over PE pieces. The glass lens was cut from microscope cover glass.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Caboose%2FMR_CB_Lantern1.jpg&hash=718144256c3289070c58592fdc2a897adfb23a6e)
The finished lantern...pretty straightforward...the only thinkg of note is probably the clear red lens. I was originally going to try using Tamiya "Clear Red" for this...but then while standing in front of the paint rack at the HS, I saw a spray-can of Testors #1605 "Candy Apple Red"....which is also clear....and was applied to the interior of the glass.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Caboose%2FMR_CB_Lantern3.jpg&hash=9ce406957b3307037fa2a2a6cd61ec303759309f)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Caboose%2FMR_CB_Lantern4.jpg&hash=c5229bad25a0b7f348892524fe59a44ac692aa5b)
Marc
Simple, effective, beautiful. -- Russ
not bad, but where's the "light" gonna come from? ??? :o ;D
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on May 07, 2010, 01:12:59 PM
not bad, but where's the "light" gonna come from? ??? :o ;D
-Marty
Que?, Was?
MR
Marc, cool idea using a oil burning headlight for a lantern....i think what marty is saying there is not a burner Pot inside the lantern??? usually when you open the front of a lantern like this you see a burner pot with a wick you pull out and fill........... Craig
Excellent finish!! You could put that on E-bay as real. ;)
Thanks guys. It was almost a trash bin candidate....the finish kept going south on me, and quickly became overworked....in the end I just had to force myself to stop and let it be.
Craig: I figured my oil reservoi was in the base of the lantern....and the wick can be raised/adjusted externally with the screw-knob on the right side of the lamp (I added that detail for this purpose). Of course to light the lamp you still need to open the glass front.
Marc
Frame ready for paint. Journal bearings are just set in place, so that wheels can be removed for seperate paint and weathering.
Frame primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000; Grandt-Line Delrin wheel bearings primed with Mr. Surfacer Resin Primer, after parts were scuffed with a fiberglass brush.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCabooseFrame_Complete.jpg&hash=80eb3d3cfcecd7ad0f1535144b2ee99cb73f57a7)
M
Nice! Glad to see you back to this project. -- Dallas
I was wondering whether you have been too swamped with work to do much modeling. Glad you are still messing around. -- Russ
....just doing a little on this project, and a little of that, and some on the other....trying to squeeze some in between work and the bike.
M
Marc,
really nice job on the frame and as inspiring as ever- just looked back over the pages of this project and the work is fantastic.
Looking forward to seeing more when you get chance.
James
That's all you have gotten done?! ;D
Looks great, thanks for the update!
-Mj
Marc
Good to see you back posting. Looks real good thanks for the update.
Jerry
Base color (a mix of Tamiya; Hull Red, Brown, and Yellow), with a fine splattering of very diluted Life-Color "Orange Rust".
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCabooseFrame_Paint1.jpg&hash=c0cdbca6c68ee5d90ae9d1626bffc5fffdce992c)
Marc
lovely texture!
sponge? brush splatter?
-mj
It's just me - I liked this little wagon in its ex-works condition more. :)
Thanks Marty,
This was an experiment using the airbrush. Figured it would be good enough for a base finish, as there will be a faded black paint coat over it, which will be heavily chipped away using the HS method.
You can see the finish better here, on this piece that I shot, at the same time, for another little project. The "x" is about 1.125" wide overall....this will also get worn color over it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FCrossingSign_1.jpg&hash=d9426ee731722be1537af8d4be3c467206debb95)
M
Ian,
No worries....it willl be coming back a bit from the rust. I want it to be a well worn and aging car with some paint still on it. :)
Marc
Lovely texture and coloring!
Looking forward to hearing how it was done.
-Mj
I really like the rust texture on this X, Marc. On the rod too, in fact. It will be interesting with some chips of paint.
Great coloring and texture.
Jerry
Thanks guys. the Texture is actually much finer and less spotty of the real piece.... the pic magnification just really enhances every little speck.
Marc
Marc - As I have been digging watching this one evolve for a while - and I'm hoping this doesn't count as hijacking your thread - but where is the right place to ask about the 1:35th rail stuff in general? Besides seeing the static stuff that DML, Trumpy, and resin guys like Libor have been up to recently, 35th is all static at this point (minus the odd custom project)? I ask as I was looking at some recent comment's in Jaqc's amazing set up and he was making reference to a future project in 1:35th - but I was under the impression that he did "working rail"?
I'm asking here as I know you float back and forth between the two disciplines in what seems to be a fairly seamless manner, and my next project will be 1:35 pump or turbine houses.
Thanks!
Paul
Paul,
Really no such thing as thread hijacking here. :) There is a growing contingent of RR modelers that model small operating layouts in 1/35. (They are the ones that have seen the light ;) ;D ) These layouts generally depict small industrial operations, not the large main-line stuff like Trumpeter and DML makes. For the most part, all rolling stock (cars) and locomotives need to be scratchbuilt or kitbashed, though there are a couple of mfrs. that do make small industial steam and petrol locomotives, and some quarry skips, in this scale (IMO one of, if not, the best, Bernard Snoodyk [narrowgauger] is a member here). Slowly, more small/specialy RR mfrs are starting to the benefits of this scale (all the crossover possibilites and available detail parts, with the armor market), and are bringing the occasional offerings to market. There are a couple of guys here that have/are building operating 1/35 layouts, Bernard being one, Nick (who you are now already acquaited with :D ), and Franck Tavernier (who built a beautiful quarry layout)...and now Jacq will soon join this lot. I am sure there are others as well, but they don't spring to mind at the moment. I look forward to your pump or turbine house...interesting choice of subject.
Ok....back to our regularly scheduled program already in progress.
After a coat of matte clear, and a couple of coats of hairspray, the frame and wheel bearings were painted with a mix of Tamiya "Nato Black" and "White", to give a faded black appearance.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCB_FramePaint2.jpg&hash=a93b5c4d9e3f1479138d882d431fbfb5490e13ec)
This was followed by a random sponge application of Life-Color Tensochrome "White"., give a mottled chalky feel to the black paint. The paint was then chipped using a variety of small brushes. As one can see in the images at some of the edges and high points I scrubbed a bit too hard and wore through to the primer.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCB_FramePaint3.jpg&hash=8527983bd1d771c2c7d38d3b3f6d5df62e5707af)
Touch-up and more weathering to come....
Marc
Marc
Thanks for sharing the how to. I really like the effect with the sponge.
Jerry
Wheels with base rust tones, and some metalic sheen on the rolling surface, and wheels after application of dust and dirt.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCB_WheelsPaint.jpg&hash=3921e7733106efcda4799139c79407c946e5a064)
Frame after initial dirt and dust application, and rain marks. Done with Odorless Turpentine, Abt-502 "Buff" oil paint, and CMK, & MIG pigments.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2F135Caboose%2FCB_FrameDust.jpg&hash=2a8be456014aa6e61a16f3b1345d99aa99b4136c)
Below is one of many reference pics I have for dirty frames.
Marc
Awesome - looks like the real thing as usual! :o
Anders ;D
Holy Moly ... :o
... now that looks the part ...
... and makes me feel very uncomfortable :-\, while comparing my humble attempts of painting and weathering my wheels and flatcar to this ... well, I'll try harder ...
Kind regards
Gerald
Marc, I am always very impressed by the way you're able to finish any metal part so as it shows multiple layers of dust, rust, and all of this in a perfectly realistic way.
Great finish on the metal - wow - love the look.
Really super Marc, thanks for the how-to's. I give a try to just about everything you suggest for finishing. My problem is that I should completely re outfit my paint supply with those brands you recommend and have about a lifetime more experience to get your results.
Appreciate the notes, photos of different steps ... and, of course, the results. -- Dallas
Just have to admit it looks like the real thing. Great job Marc.
Jerry
Are you sure you can't do better? -- ssuR
Thanks guys....but I am merely just trying to keep up with all the great work you guys have been posting.
It's really an easy process.....and you don't necessarily need the products I use....I use them because I like their quality and/or colors for my needs. First step is to find the pigment colors you feel will give you the tones of dust or dirt you want to show. Put them next to eachother in a small pallet...find a complimentary oil paint color and place it on the edge of a small amount of odorless turpentine...and mix just a bit into the turp. to create a dirty wash (density will vary depending on need, taste, and practice). Lightly dampen the surface area to be worked with some clean turpentine, then apply the dust wash into corners, grooves, surfaces and around details as desired. (if too much or in the wrong place it can be picked up with a clean brush or makeup sponge)....while the wash nd surface is still damp use asmall dry brush to dab, tap, or sprinkle, random mixes nd amount of pigments...then if/ as needed use a clean brush and clean turpentine and a makeup sponge to manipulate change or remove the pigments as needed/desired. Additional pigment or oil wash can be added as desired. Let dry. One can add and touch up as needed once dry.
Marc
Hi Marc
Thanks for the walk through, will have to give it a try. Really well explained and makes sense. Looking forward to playing with the technique.
cheers Ferd
Sorry for my lack of participation...just been really busy....so no modeling time.
...but since Anders asked about this project in the Duetz thread....
Basically it's about 90-95% finished (still needs the window, and some small details like hinges, and a hook on the exterior for the lantern).....however I was not that thrilled with it so I just stuck it away in a cabinet. This is where it was at when I stopped work on it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose1.jpg&hash=bab73b94edc4f686609c0b4968fc11cc5d86827f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose2.jpg&hash=3bb14d7c6f1c0c0617160b221f0ab2748126494b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose3.jpg&hash=43638a416f4f5572c7e61f0a9d5cbca1a9046955)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose4.jpg&hash=f61a53437a36e08a7d453c200c8d3f6e5ba44b68)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose5.jpg&hash=96eb805a02cfb4448482528c3df92d52f76baaac)
Cheers,
Marc
You should finish it, it looks great!
Agree.....superb model! Thanks for posting.
Anders ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 29, 2011, 03:13:19 AM
Sorry for my lack of participation...just been really busy....so no modeling time.
...but since Anders asked about this project in the Duetz thread....
Basically it's about 90-95% finished (still needs the window, and some small details like hinges, and a hook on the exterior for the lantern).....however I was not that thrilled with it so I just stuck it away in a cabinet. This is where it was at when I stopped work on it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose1.jpg&hash=bab73b94edc4f686609c0b4968fc11cc5d86827f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose2.jpg&hash=3bb14d7c6f1c0c0617160b221f0ab2748126494b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose3.jpg&hash=43638a416f4f5572c7e61f0a9d5cbca1a9046955)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose4.jpg&hash=f61a53437a36e08a7d453c200c8d3f6e5ba44b68)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FCaboose5.jpg&hash=96eb805a02cfb4448482528c3df92d52f76baaac)
Cheers,
Marc
Christ , Marc , what's bloody wrong with this one ?
It's one thing to be a perfectionist and another to let that tendency cripple you. -- Russ
QuoteChrist , Marc , what's bloody wrong with this one ?
Wood grain texture and some of the coloring, chipping on the red, the dirt/dust on the interior, and the overall proportions.
I am really pleased with all the small clutter details though (except the oil stain on the toolbox, which ended up too "shiny" ).
QuoteIt's one thing to be a perfectionist and another to let that tendency cripple you.
Not crippling...just not completely happy with it...but I knew this would be the likely result, as it really was just a project that was intended/developed as a series of experiments for a variety of techniques and processes, for me to learn and prove things to myself. ...and it really didn't have a clear plan...just ageneral direction that developed/happened as I went along, and depending on what I wanted to try. :)
It may still eventually get finished..as the window is one of the items I wanted to experiment with. (I've got till 2013 ;D)
M
Marc, saw this over on the AK forum and think it's fantastic. Not sure how you do it, but I do have to come visit and peak over your shoulder sometime. :o
Rob
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 07, 2010, 12:50:40 PM
In the meantime.....I decided that a caboose might need a lantern. I modified a 1/48 scale grant line oil burning headlight by extending the bottom, grinding out the interior/reflector more, adding a wick stem, adding a handle using some brass wire and left over PE pieces. The glass lens was cut from microscope cover glass.
Marc, how do you cut circular disks from cover glasses? I tried using a scriber and plastic ruler with a hole, but my results were not very good. Ragged edges, and lots of broken glass.
Regards, Haavard H
Window built and installed, and more dust added. Time to call this one done.
(That's another one Nick. ;D )
Marc, You been a modeling MACHINE ;D
I'm not well........
...2 more to go.
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 19, 2013, 05:26:45 PM
Window built and installed, and more dust added. Time to call this one done.
(That's another one Nick. ;D )
Have you set a date for pick-up by The Mother Ship? You seem to be "finishing" an unusual number of things lately!
New window and latch detail look great ...
Keep it going! We'll miss ya when yer gone ... ;D
Cheers,
Dalals
Hmmm. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 20, 2013, 12:53:20 AM
Hmmm. -- Russ
.....yes?
FWIW, SBS wise, the window is made from 3-layers of sandwiched styrene, and a piece of microscope cover glass. A .040 wide square the size of the deeded window frame was cut out of a sheet of .010 styrene sheet. Stiles and rails were then cut from .060 wide x .010 thick styrene strip. These were then glued to one side of the previous .010 frame piece...aligning the ouside edges, and giving me a .020 lip on the inside. This assembly was turned over, and a piece of cut microscope cover glass was set into the opening on the .040 frame....held in by the .060 pieces behind it. Another set of .060 stiles and rails were cut and glued in on the top,...thus sandwiching the glass in place. The edges of the assembly were then lightly puttied and sanded to remove/hide any seams, and a fiberglass and wire pencil were ised to create a very light surface grain. Painting was done with a Tamiya acrylic base, oil color for the wood grain, and then some washes of Vallejo acrylics, to try and match the wood color and shading more closely.
Latch hook was scavenged from a Grandt-Line 1/48 scale stock car detail set. Hinge baarrels are .010 styrene rod, and the eyelet is an HO wire lift ring set (think it was by Detail Associates)
I'm glad to see you finish another one. The window latch looks great!
Quote from: Malachi Constant on May 19, 2013, 08:10:13 PM
Have you set a date for pick-up by The Mother Ship? You seem to be "finishing" an unusual number of things lately!
New window and latch detail look great ...
Keep it going! We'll miss ya when yer gone ... ;D
Cheers,
Dalals
I'm packed and ready!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/934090_652824928066974_174515548_n.jpg)
Yup! Pretty much what I thought ... but a bit of a surprise on the visuals. Have seen the Star-Belly Sneeches ... but the Eye-Belly Stars are a new one! Dr. Seuss will be pleased. ;D