I was looking through some photos on my hard-disk last night, when I got a the wild idea of seeing if I could convert a Bachmann Davenport into a "plausible" Deutz inspired loco in 1/32 or 1/35 scale.
The first problem to overcome, or mitigate, was the very easily identifiable Bachmann frame.....I just hate seeing so many of these conversions on-line, and you can always immediately tell that it is a Bachmann frame. Of course because I plan to use the weights and rods, as well as the bonnet, I will only be able to mitigate this to a certain point.....but it's worth the try.
First thing to do was to disassemble the loco, and clamp it into the vise on the milling machine....all the work was done with the frame in the vise....except for this Rube Goldberg set-up to mill the rear end.
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The main changes were reducing the deck thickness to .030 (which was was done by milling from both the top and the bottom, and narrowing the overall width of the frame to more closely resemble the approx 45" width of a Deutz OMZ.
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The housing that encloses the worm-gear in th Bmann loco is longer on the top than on the inside, so I was able to shorten this to just inside the cast on band. I also milled a bolt flange at the bottom where it meets the deck. (yes...as you can see I did have some "chatter" on the bit :-X)
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This rear view shows where the worm-gear housing was milled shorter, and the end-sill was milled thinner by .030" (leaving a .010 bump below the coupler box opening because of the existing screw hole)
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This shows the amount of material removed on the underside. I milled back just far enough to retain a small strip of the lip that holds the side-frames in place.
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...other than clean-up, that's pretty much the extent of the initial changes to the frame. The rest will be done with styrene.
I also started some work on the bonnet, but those pictures wil have to wait till I am a bit further along.
Below are two quick examples of the type of Deutz locos that inspired me to try this.
Neat! Are you going to modifiy the side rods? The model ones look a bit tinny to me. Your first proto photo shows them thicker.
I don't think so, though I agree with your comment/observation...but unfortunately I am no Marty Jones at the mill.....and I sort of wanted to do this as an example of a simple conversion anyone can do.
Marc
It already looks better. -- Russ
Quoteand I sort of wanted to do this as an example of a simple conversion anyone can do.
and I have to believe that................. :( :( :(
let me get this straight;
1) Marc is building a loco that "may" actually run?
2) "Anyone" can mill the frame down to the specs listed?
3) anyone could scratch a cab for this loco?
I must have had way too much Kahlua & xanex tonight........
Marc, if I can be of assistance on the side rods please let me know.
May be just thickening up whats there will make it look better?
-Mj
Yes Marty,
1). I for all too long have suffered the snickering. and the slings and arrows of your and they guys jokes about my non running engines. I figured it was time to fight back, and give power to the the project. ;) ;D It will even have/retain the working headlight!
2.) If I was able to do it, I am pretty sure most anyone can. I had no plan, drawings or ideas......I just clamped that baby in the vise, and looking at the Deutz photos began cutting away at it. The whole deal took about 4 hours (mainly because of the limit on how much metal you can cut per pass....which was definitely new and strange to me, as I am a styrene & plexi guy.
3.) Sheesh...that will be one of the easiest parts a blind monkey could build it ::).....but just to make it harder and throw a wrench into the works, I may give Ken's heat-gun forming approach a try.
...and yes, (if I can keep from vomiting as I say it)....it will still be able to have Kadee couplers on the rear.
...oooh Xanex...I may need some when I get around to the cab interior details. ;D
Thanks for the offer on the rods.....I guess I will have a look at them. I have no idea how to get them, off though.
The biggest problem/issue is the proportions of the frame (and thus the eventual loco)...the OMZ Deutzs were about 5' longer, than the Bman frame is at 1/32, and I can't build the smaller Deutz (the dark green one referenced above), because if I narrow the deck any further I will begin exposing the side rods and weights. The other issue is the size of room required for the useless motor and something called DCC....thus the bonnet interior space pretty much needs to be retained in one form or another. So there will be a lot of compromise in the end. ...but then as I said, I did not set out to build an exact model...just something "plausible" and simple.
Marc
Ahhh.... while doing a quick sketch of the side for proportions, I just found out how the side rods come off. ....now if I can figure out how to get the weights off, and shorten their mounting posts, as well as probably shorten the axels, I could reduce the frame width some more. (Hmmmmmm..... ::))
Anyhow...here is the quick side proportion drawing....and a comparson drawing between my reproportioned loco, and a real Deutz OMZ (which is the rust colored larger loco, in the referenced images above)....unfortunately I do not have an drawing of the smaller green loco to compare mine to.
Marc, what mill is that? and what collett is that?
-Mj
From a french model supplier:
http://www.letrainmagique.com/Notice_kit_deutz.htm (http://www.letrainmagique.com/Notice_kit_deutz.htm)
the Oe kit:
http://www.letrainmagique.com/Documents_pdf/KIT_deutz_omz.pdf (http://www.letrainmagique.com/Documents_pdf/KIT_deutz_omz.pdf)
maybe some useful info ????
Jacq
Hey Marc,
Just some photos of what I did with the Davenport chassis.
Hope I have succes with attaching them. Otto.
That is one of the nicest conversions of the Bachmann Davenport I have seen. -- Russ
@ Otto,
So glad to see you posting here!
Nice model as usual! What did you used for the motor gearhead, a 2020A? And how did you hold it on the frame? I made there are a few years ago a new frame for a project in 1:35, but never finished!
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@ Marc, nice project! About the deck overall width, the Deutz OMZ 117 deck was 1155mm width, approx. 45". So, in 1:32 scale, you can milled the Bachmann deck to 36mm width, without exposing side rods and weights! ;) You can too shortened the wheelset axles if you have a lathe, and push a little bit the weights on them...
If you want drawings, I can scan them tomorrow ;)
Franck
Marty:
The mill is the one from Micro-Mark. Forgot what the collet/head number designation is...but I believe its pretty much a standard size like those on larger mills, with of course collet inserts for all the different mill bit increments (8 or 9 collet ranging 1/8"-5/8" bits/shafts) The bit shown in the image is a 1/8".
The 2 layers of plexi, is the "level milling bed" trick that Mike Musal told us about on TNGS.
Jacq:
Thanks for the links much appreciated...especially the second one with the PDF file.
Otto:
Welcome to the Forum. Thanks for posting your conversion. Neat loco, and very interesting to see how you went about it. Whos is the bonnet (engine enclosure) part from? Look forward to seeing more of your work.
Franck:
As always, thanks for the input and photos. Very interesting conversion project you have going there...is this for a new project, or was it for one of the ones you already built?
Hmmm...shortening the axles....sounds tempting...and I have a lathe (but don't know how to use it well :-X :-\.......plus that might be getting further into this than I hoped.....I was trying to do this sort of quick-and-dirty. ;D
Marc
Marc,
Yes it was for a new project in 1:35 scale, but never finished, because of the lack of time and because I wasn't satisfied with the original look of this model! To my opinion this model is short legged ;D ;D ::) ::) :P
So for a model in 1:35 / 1:32, the frame should be higher compared to the rail...In fact the wheels dia. is too small! Wheels of 11.4mm dia. Approx. would be much better...
I haven't done this modification, but it's possible, there is sufficient room between the wheels and the frame...
Franck
Hello All,
Thanks!
Marc, you see that I made the top of the mechanism flat with my rotary sander. Then A 0,5 mm thick footplate was used for the build up and on that a 0,5 mm thick tube solderd on. This makes that the original worm fits exactly at the right height. The motor is a Faulhabe 2020A.
Your mechanism looks perfect with the 45 degree worms, must be a good runner.
Best wishes to all, Otto.
Mistake for not reading well enough, Franck that was your mechanism! Did you addan intermediate gearing like this one for my Deutz?
Otto.
Hello Marc,
I made it for a friend, it was a fantasy and a quickie, but I like it very much myself.
The bonnet came from a white metal and plastic kit from K S Modellesenbahnen.
www.KS-Modelleisenbahnen.com
Quote from: ossynths on July 05, 2009, 02:41:37 AM
Mistake for not reading well enough, Franck that was your mechanism! Did you addan intermediate gearing like this one for my Deutz?
Otto.
Hi Otto,
No intermediate gearing, because I didn't use a 2020A but a 2020D! ;)
Quote from: ossynths on July 05, 2009, 02:31:59 AM
Hello All,
Thanks!
Marc, you see that I made the top of the mechanism flat with my rotary sander. Then A 0,5 mm thick footplate was used for the build up and on that a 0,5 mm thick tube solderd on. This makes that the original worm fits exactly at the right height. The motor is a Faulhabe 2020A.
Hi Otto, very good idea! I had tried before making my new frame to use the 2020 with the original frame, but without success! And after I didn't test other solutions... ::) :P. Moreover, I wanted a full equalization system, and the Bachmann frame was not equipped...So, I scratchbuilt a new frame...
Quote from: ossynths on July 05, 2009, 02:31:59 AM
Your mechanism looks perfect with the 45 degree worms, must be a good runner.
Thanks for the kind words, and yes it's a good runner ;)
Marc you sure milled the heck out of that frame! I don't think that I have ever quite seen a clamp job like that before? I like where you'r going with this one, because I have a closet full of these things and you are right the standard bashes of these look toy like. That's probally why i shelved mine. Thanks for renewing my intrest
Gil Flores
RE-WORKING THE BONNET:
The original Bachmann bonnet piece with all the raised detail removed, stack hole filled, detail line filled, and sides extended. Though not very Deutz-like, in the spirit of simplification, I chose to leave the cast-on radiator grille detail, and reuse the Bachmann headlight assembly (hence not filling the 3 holes in the top)
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Here you can clearly see some more of the rework that was done to the original Bachmann piece:
1. the sides were extended using .040 x .125 styrene strip
2. The front was also extended .125", but thicker styrene was used in order to "push" the bonnet further forward on the frame.
3. The original Bachmann mounting tab was cleanly cut from the original part, and re-attached on the inside of the thicker styrene extension.
4. the rear of the original bonnet piece was removed, and a piece of styrene reinforcing was installed.
5. Slots were cut in the side at the locations where the ventilation holes are to be in the new side panel.
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The image below shows the reworked bonnet area test fitted on the frame. Here you can see how much closer the bonnet now sits towards the front.
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Some of the details added.
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That looks pretty cool Marc. Keep on the good work ;-)
Bye, Gerd
Marc,
good to see you back on this one.
Are the panels sliding ones or lift out ones ?
Jacq
Now that I have picked myself up off the floor......
Glad to see you posting work again.
But, I can not believe with all that work you didnt make up a new radiator guard, simple? what has that to do with anything?
The proportions are coming up nicely, really like the "feel" of the side panels.
-Mj
Hm... I looked again to the photos and now I wounder if the hood isn't to small... The prototype Deutz OMZ 122 locomotive have very broad motor hoods. Your version Marc look more tall then broad...
Bye, Gerd
Quote from: jacq01 on August 11, 2009, 02:24:14 AM
Marc,
good to see you back on this one.
Are the panels sliding ones or lift out ones ?
Jacq
Jacq ,
Without wanting to answer for Marc , I would say they are lift out as you'd have a job sliding the panels passed the turnbuckles . What do you think ?
Nick
Jacq: I had no idea that there werew slide-out versions. I am just sort of picking and choosing ideas/details/inspiration from the stack of Deutz images I have.
Gerd: Yes, the proportions are a bit off for both the larger and smaller Deutz locos....the height is pretty close to correct based on drawings I have...but the width is not quite right for any of the models......but I figure since the overall length will also be completely wrong, and the wheelbase is wrong, I am not going to worry too much. I really just wanted to do a Deutz inspired look/appearance....mainly something to show that the Bmann loco can be used/modified outside of what is generally done to it in 1/32.....and I am too lazy and easily distracted to do all the work that would be required to accurately match the prototype (I'll save that for my armor models ;) ;D ).
Marty: ...heck I gotta draw the line someplace ;).....in retrospect I should have just removed the grille......and I may still make some kind of screened or perforated covering for it....especially since I am not sure about re-using the exist holes for a new grab-rail (though I did find a Deutz image with an example of it)....
Marc
Hey Marc
Good to see you back and posting. Keep us posted and make MJ feel bad that he says you never finish anything ;)
Jerry
Whoa!!! :o....nobody said anything about FINISHING it..... ;D
M
Marc
Whether it ever gets done or not. It's just great to have you back, your imput is always appreciated. And all the things you bring to the forum make this just a great place to be.
Jerry
After you get through purging yourself from the Kaydee's, I have absolute scale, metal, working 1/32 couplers. If you promise to come run that thing at a place nearby to your house, an arrangement could be made.
John
That's one hell of a clamping job Marc... Rube Goldberg would be proud ;). I like what you've done with the bonnet, nice and crisp.
Paul
Feldbahn.....................http://www.werkbahn.de/photos.htm (http://www.werkbahn.de/photos.htm) lots of them.
click on the manufacturers name and see for yourself......
this one is nice http://www.merte.de/bilder/diema_1306.jpg (http://www.merte.de/bilder/diema_1306.jpg)
Jacq
WHOA!.....that first link is going to keep me busy for many hours! THANKS!
...as for the second link.....I think I have a swift kick in the rear waiting for you. ;) ;D ;D ;D
I did a bit of work on this project over the weekend.....milled the new sideframes and weights. Will post some pics when I get them a bit further (IE. they look more interesting than just pieces of acrylic with various holes).
Marc
Yes Jacq, that first link is super... thanks for posting. No sure about that second one though... maybe Marc could do one of those pulled by a donkey ;) ;D ;D
Paul
QuoteNo sure about that second one though... maybe Marc could do one of those pulled by a donkey
I'll remove that Diema photo when Marc put his machine on wheels ;D ;D ;D
btw Now Russ is in Colorado, I can show, without troubling him, some antlers, big ones http://homepage.ntlworld.com/nigel.ford2/_wp_generated/wp61797f3c_0f.jpg (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/nigel.ford2/_wp_generated/wp61797f3c_0f.jpg)
Jacq
Well not nearly as exciting or skillfull work as has been posted here in the forum of late, ...but alas...some progress on this build.
The weights were milled from acrylic. The front had holes drilled to accept the bolt detail, and the rear had the edges rabbeted to interloc and fit around the Bmann frame. This image shows the weights ready to receive a "cast texture, using Krylon enamel primer sprayed from a distance. On order to keep the texture out of the holes (so that they retain the "machined" look), I used small dabs of Silly-Putty to fill/mask the holes.
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This image shows the weights mounted to the new acrylic side-frames, the rabetting can be seen between the weights and the frame. The white strips are .005" styrene to hold a neat and even space/parting line when installed. Just for extra security, taking a trick from Ken's playbook, a 1/16 acrylic rod was used to pin the the weights to the sideframe from the rear.
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The side-frames set in place on the modified Bmann frame, showing the interloc/overlap, that conceals the frame from view.
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....lastly the side-frames set loosly in place on the project (the gap/space between the top of the weigts and deck plate will be much smaller when the sidframes are permanently affixed).
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Next will be the front and rear frame pieces........
...and hey, look Jacq.....It's got wheels!!! ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Looks great so far!
Thanks Ray.
Have now been rethinking the cab...was originally planning a typical enclosed cab, but seeing the proportions come to life (full cab may seem ungainly and visually overweighted), I am now really leaning to a low-wall, no roof version; or a low wall version with a just a 4-pole supported arced sheet metal roof. ???
Maybe I need to do a cardstock mock-up of the options. :-\
.....input on this is conundrum is welcome from anyone with an opinion.
Marc
Marc,
this comes along very nice, well detailed, ...... I agree that a closed cab will spoil the proportions.
Doesn't the werklok site offers plenty alternative idea's ? Maybe an umbrella ? :D :D An open one offers a lot of potentials for
gear-, brake-,throttlelevers, dials and a wel worn seat.
It is now too late to remove the bee-diema. This one on a playground is based on a children's tv program Die Biene Maya.
The best is to leave it to the kids to get rid of it.
Looking forward to see your vision on the balanced whole, particullary the behind, and of course your paint SBS on this one.
Jacq
Marc
Very nice indeed. Will be interesting to see what you come up with for the cab.
Love those wheels!!!! ;D ;D
Jerry
Hey Marc! Wanna hairbrained idea for a different roof? Well you're gonna get it anyway. How 'bout a tube frame and a canvas roof? Some brass rod with some cool little brackets.
John
Just saw a Huell Howser episode up at Cargill (Leslie) salt. Nice scene of thier 2 ft guage portable RR in use. Modern engines, but all open cab.
Hi Marc,
Nice Job! An open cab will be much better ;)
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Franck
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Marc:
I'm with Franck on this, leave the cab open. Anything else will end up looking like a caricature I think. Besides, to quote Sir Arthur Heywood, "A stout mackintosh is cheaper and far better for the driver." Good photos Franck, thanks for posting.
Paul
Quote from: jacq01 on September 17, 2009, 07:36:55 AM
QuoteNo sure about that second one though... maybe Marc could do one of those pulled by a donkey
I'll remove that Diema photo when Marc put his machine on wheels ;D ;D ;D
btw Now Russ is in Colorado, I can show, without troubling him, some antlers, big ones http://homepage.ntlworld.com/nigel.ford2/_wp_generated/wp61797f3c_0f.jpg (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/nigel.ford2/_wp_generated/wp61797f3c_0f.jpg)
Jacq
Good one Jacq :o. Fortunately topics on this forum tend toward the sublime. With that antler photo we've now captured the ridiculous ;)
Paul
How are you going to hide that huge transmission cover with an open cab? Otherwise It looks great. I want to build one! The cast weights came out fantastic, when i tried mine they looked whimpy, way to go, I cant wait to try this method! Cast weights for everyone! I just rememberd I have a Duetz catalog, I will scan it and send it to you
Gil Flores
Gil,
I am going to leave the transmission casting, and do some modifications and cast-iron texture to it...I reduced it as much as I could without exposing the space for the worm gear....or without creating a LOT of extra work for me. I will actually also have to have a decent sized bulge/incursion behind the firewall, in order to hide the rest of the motor & DCC board. This would be less visible/noticeable/offensive in a closed cab version.....will have to see how it plays out with an open cab.
Was too hot to ride today, so I spent some time at the bench, building the rear pilot/frame and coupler set-up.
I wanted to mimmick the European buffer style link & pin couplers, yet have them fit the existing Bachmann Kadee box. In order to do this I modified a set of Foothill Model Works L&P couplers, by drlling out the existing pin hole to .045", and adding a piece of arced .020" styrene sheet to the face.
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The pins I used are from PSC and come in brass and plastic. They are well suited/sized for 1/35 or 1/32 scale (and though oversized for 1/48, they could be used in 1/48 for all those whiners that complain about small and plastic pins). The pins are .280" long overall, with a .040" shaft. The pin near the buffer face will be replace in the end with a custom formed pin and chain assembly to macth those I have seen on an Indonesian sugar cane operation.
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This is then completed end sill/frame assembly using the original Bmann coupler pocket, and the modified FMW coupler. Note that the Bmann coupler pocket has been drilled through top to bottom with a .045" dia hole, to also accept the coupler pins.
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Next...the front sill/frame piece.
M
can you post a prototype pic, I'm confused....
Of course I can... ;)
The cars/loco are connected to echother by a pin-chain-pin set-up...one pin into the hole behind the face plate on one car...and the other pin into the hole behind the face plate on the other car....the chain connecting the pins then holds the cars together...pretty simple set-up.....sorry I don't have the pic on hand at the moment showing two linked cars...but I think you get the idea.
M
I hadn't seen that type of coupling before. Neat!
Marc,
I'm thinking the buffer plate on that coupler sits too high, and thats what had them confused. I myself was thinking that maybe a hole was yet to be milled out in the middle of the plate. In the reference pic you just posted, it looks like the link sits across the top of the buffer plate. Your pin appears hidden behind the plate, and no easy "flat plane" for the link to run across. Maybe?
Dan
Dan,
I think you are correct...I was debating on cutting a notch/depression into the top for the chain to pass through.
I will likely end up lowering/shaving the top a slight bit...and mabe radiusing the bottom a bit more....but FWIW the pin behind the buffer plat is not the one I will be using at that loc. I need to find the pic, but the one I was after had a larger triangular loop and the whole assembly sat up a bit higher from the coupler shaft/top.
Marc
In the link werkbahn.de are plenty of photo's showing an elongated openings in the top of buffers to pass the chain.
http://www.merte.de/bilder/schoema_2240.jpg (http://www.merte.de/bilder/schoema_2240.jpg)
Jacq
http://www.merte.de/bilder/schoema_2240.jpg
Now it makes sense!!!!
Thanks Jacq!
Marc,
I know nothing about the technical side of railways but I do like those couplings .... and even more with the cut out for the pin and chain, you always manage to add something a bit different with your work.
The photo you posted is interesting can you let me know some more details of where you got it
Marc
Good choice on the couplers. Different yes but really goes great with build. But then again you always are looking for the different.
Jerry
These puffers are also made with a recess on the top to clear the chain coupling. this is normally a 3 or 4 link chain with a long shackle and or triangular shackle.
Marc, here a link to a build Deutz model from Ecore. Yuo should be able to camouflage the gear bulge as gearbox. See some photo's of the model.
http://www.feldbahn24.de/content/fahrzeuge/omz117.htm (http://www.feldbahn24.de/content/fahrzeuge/omz117.htm)
Jacq
Hi Marc,
Nice job! I agree with Jacq, these puffers are often made with a recess on the top for the chain coupling...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.tele2.at%2F%7Eat-19649%2FDORAfertig2.jpg&hash=880545dad1460d9b24b0623c790bffe02ae1a49c)
Franck
Franck,
Interesting where a loco will turn up...
"Just park it in the back yard near the clothes line"...must have one of them 4x4 wheel sets underneath ;D
Dan
Thanks for all the info pics and comments...mich appreciated.
the slotted coupler is cool...had not seen that one before...Will have to keep it in mind for a future build.
Franck...the notch like you show is the option I was considering.
Not the image below...it is of the cane car..or sim.... that was shown in my image (Scanned from the O&K catalog).....though unfortunately cropped....note the coupler...and how the face plate does come above the coupler top....note that the "pin" they use has a hook shaped top, that also has a loop where the chain is fastened.....this is kind of what I had in mind for my set-up. The one problem...and why I may go Francks image direction.....is that the pin hole in the FMW coupler is located a bit too close to the back of the face plate...so the hook type pin likely won't fit quite right.
Gordon...I do not recall where I found that image...it was one of several hundered from Java Sugar cane operations that I have on my Hard Disk.....I believe it was clipped from a german forum that was all about Cane trains and operations in that region of the world. Sorry I can't be of more help.
M
Try goolge with " Stefan Matthaus " and/or indonesion sugar-cane railways. for the sugar cane car.
jacq
A wee bit more work....it's now getting into the nit-picky parts
The top image shows the front pilot/plate, with the crank support bracket. (I kind of liked this front plate and support detail on one of the prototype images I found.) Also note as per our discussion that the coupler face has now been notched.
Sorry for the wierd blue hue to the photos....for some reason my camera is wierding out on me today :-\
M
Sorry..forgot to add the photo of the front plate that I took the detail from...and yes I will be adding the bolt heads.
M
I also am starting to work on the cab interior. I decided to use/modify the original Bmann back face of the bonnet, because it already was shaped and fitted around the transmission housing...just made things a lot faster/easier (plus the orig. plastic is nice and ridgid). The reason for this extending inside the cab, is because this is the original location of the bonnet, and as such the motor/drive. When I moved the bonnet and front cab wall forward, I now needed to somehow cover the small section of exposed drive/motor that occurred.
The cab wall is just a temp. piece of bent .010 styrene, so that I could build to the required dim. The eventual cab walls be be heat/vaccum formed
M
That's great Marc!
Looking very good Marc...
Be sure to finish this model, Marc. It's pretty decent.
Blue tint to your photos? Check your camera's white balance. Make sure it isn't set for incandescent because, if it is, then sunlight will look blue.
Russ
Good progress! thanks for the inspiration!
Might be kinda cool to leave one of the bolts out in the front pilot/plate,
wonder where they all went on the prototype?.....
Some nice rust stains running down?
-Marty
Thanks guys.
Russ: Trust me...I went through all the settings ;D....at one point everything was green! I finally took out the memory card, and reformatted the thing....seems to have helped for some odd reason.
Marty: those bolt holes are empty on all the locos....I believe they were there so that things could be attached/bolted to the pilot. On some shortopen cab versions, the rear wall has exterior braces that extend down over the rear pilot, and are bolted into those holes.
Franck: I need a bit of input and clarification.....looking through all the photos I have, I noticed that some models/locos have what appears to be an air cleaner at the top front of the bonnet while others don't. I also noticed that full cab versions tend to have a stack that comes out the top of the hood, runs back to the cab wall, and then up the face of the cab......but I can't find any exhaust stacks on the short cab versions....where was the exhaust for these routed???...under the frame? I really like your version that you posted here earlier, no cleaner, no stack, and would like to follow that line/design.....just would like to know/get an idea how the mechanics of the intake and exhaust worked on those. Thanks.
M
Would be a cool place to put an eye bolt into and then you could drape some chain! <big grin> ;D ;D
Seriously though it would be an interesting point to have something there (other than the back uprights)or in addition to.
-Marty
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 03, 2009, 01:25:54 PM
Franck: I need a bit of input and clarification.....looking through all the photos I have, I noticed that some models/locos have what appears to be an air cleaner at the top front of the bonnet while others don't.
Yes, you are right. Deutz OME 117; OMZ117 have an air filter at the top of their bonnet! I think because of the lack of room under the bonnet, don't forget that these locos were very small...On the other side, the Deutz OMZ 122; bigger, had also an air filter at the top of the bonnet! I think too, that it was because of the lack of room, his engine was bigger too! But I saw OMZ 122 without external air filter...
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 03, 2009, 01:25:54 PMI also noticed that full cab versions tend to have a stack that comes out the top of the hood, runs back to the cab wall, and then up the face of the cab......
I think, than you speak about the sand box...On the OME 117 and OMZ 122, sand boxes were at the top of the bonnet, just in front of the cab wall..On the OMZ 117 the sand box was inside the cab, on the cab wall (like my model)...Once again, I think that it was for the lack of room under the bonnet or in the cab, for these differents types...
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 03, 2009, 01:25:54 PMbut I can't find any exhaust stacks on the short cab versions....where was the exhaust for these routed???...under the frame? I really like your version that you posted here earlier, no cleaner, no stack, and would like to follow that line/design.....just would like to know/get an idea how the mechanics of the intake and exhaust worked on those. Thanks.
The exhaust pipe was under or inside the frame. On the OME 117 the exhaust is under the deck of the frame...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NWU0B8sVUQ&feature=related
Franck
An appetizer Deutz loco's in natural srroundings. I had lost this reference untill Alan Rees posted it again'
http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?17,4411551,4411842#msg-4411842 (http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?17,4411551,4411842#msg-4411842)
Jacq
What a wonderful (and picturesque) little tram! -- Russ
Now that was a really cool link jacq...
thanks
Mike
What is that contraption in the 10th photo? Looks like some sort of switch mechanism, with a bunch of weights hanging from a pulley on one side of the tracks, and some sort of white thing sticking up on the other side?
Great set of photographs of this industrial line.
Unfortunately the locomotive in the series is not a Deutz 117. It would appear to be a standard gauge Deutz shunter that has been converted to ??? 700 or 750mm gauge.
The locomotive illustrated is much larger in all dimensions, has different flycranks and cab configuration. In addition various other details are all standard mainline loco format. this suggests that caution should be taken to transpose any details to the great model that Marc is building.
By the way it looks like the contraption in photo 10 is a point with an automatice return, using a set of counter weights, to a pre-set route. Possible that these points operated a balloon loop or similar arrangement.
have fun & stay cool
Bernard
Near the last photo's is a full list with loco numbers and where they came from.
Jacq
Is this of interest for someone ?
german army narrowgauge loco's http://www.heeresfeldbahn.de/ (http://www.heeresfeldbahn.de/) In german, showing photo's and plans
Jacq
Nice find Jacq. Thanks.
I actually have both of the Heeres Feldbahnen books.
M
Here is another interesting one http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html (http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html) check the "Bilder" section.
As I chabged the date of my visit to the US from next year to 2013, I most probably will visit for a couple of weeks the Wassertal and another loggingline (not yet discovered by tourism) on the border of Hungaria, Slowakia and Ukraine. A permit from the lumbercompany has been applied for.
Jacq
Cool...don't forget to take lots of photos!
M
Quote from: jacq01 on November 02, 2009, 01:13:37 PM
Here is another interesting one http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html (http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html) check the "Bilder" section.
Jacq
Wow... excellent photos there Jacq... thanks for posting the link.
Paul
For the scratchbuilders ??
http://www.zelmeroz.com/albumquery/FaingesJ.htm (http://www.zelmeroz.com/albumquery/FaingesJ.htm)
scroll down, many scale drawings of sugar cane, logging or other narrow gauge stuff from loco's to cars.
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on November 02, 2009, 01:13:37 PM
Here is another interesting one http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html (http://www.wassertalbahn.ch/frame.html) check the "Bilder" section.
Jacq
That's a real beautifull subject with some really great atmosphere. Some roling stock seems to have WW1 style bogies. ::)
I totally agree, I also would love more pictures of this railroad !
Here some not too expensive feldbahn models :
http://www.schmalspurverlag.de/modell.pdf (http://www.schmalspurverlag.de/modell.pdf)
Tomorrow to Walferdange. Some very nice layouts http://www.amfl.net/html/2009.html (http://www.amfl.net/html/2009.html)
When back I'll post an impression.
Jacq
Have fun a Walferdange....some guy Named Damen is supposed to be there with a really cool layout! ;) ;D
I would be interested in seeng some more photos of Bernard Junks layout/modules if you can manage. (Wasn't he the fellow that Frank Tavernier built the Quarry Rogounalt (sp?) layout with?])
M
Marc,
the last message before I leave...... I'll take a lot of photo's of Bernard's layout. In Sedan it was a bit difficult due to the way the smaller layouts were crammed together. Wedekind has also some interesting stuff.
Have a nice weekend.
Jacq
Maybe of interest:
In the pdf KB scale is offered. These products are ex-Roy C Link items and are currently sold as KB Scale. They also have their own website: http://www.kbscale.com/
Highly recommended !
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 05, 2009, 11:28:46 PM
I would be interested in seeng some more photos of Bernard Junks layout/modules if you can manage. (Wasn't he the fellow that Frank Tavernier built the Quarry Rogounalt (sp?) layout with?])
M
Marc,
I know Bernard and he is one of my friend for a long time. The fellow who built the Quarry Rougeault isn't Bernard, but Philippe Cousyn, a close friend ;)
Nothing at all earth shattering, but finally got off my but and decided to try and move this project forward again....so I figured I would post a couple of pics to prove it. ;) ;D
Forming the cab walls.......
Decided to try Ken's heat-n-pull forming method. Took a piece of Poplar wood, and milled it to the needed interior cab dimension, clamped some .015" styrene between the wood, and a metal milling block. Heated the plastic along the bend area with a heat gun, and when soft enough pulled it down and around the wood former. Repeated with the other side. (The result is the top image below).
The after setting, each piece was removed from the wood form and rough trimmed.
(Lower Image below)
M
No wonder I never build anything; I would never in a million years think of milling poplar (on the mill I don't own) and using a heat gun and all that other exotic stuff to form styrene over it. Coming up with such solutions one reason Marc and some of you others create such masterpieces. Impressive. -- Russ
Marc.
QuoteI would be interested in seeng some more photos of Bernard Junks layout/modules if you can manage
Have a look in the Walferdange topic.
Jacq
A small amount of progress on this evening....
Using the milled form as backing, the styrene piece was cut to the needed size. This was then firmly affixed to the backing block using Tamiya masking tape. I then chose the radius gauge that I though worked best.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_20.jpg&hash=56a1628e7d809a368e96cd21e5f0c4ff4938928d)
Holding the gauge firmly in place, an Xacto was used to cut the radius.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_21.jpg&hash=8a94f51cdeca778edd8a5b769f0ffe4c26cb59c6)
The bulkhead pieces loosley placed on the model.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_22.jpg&hash=9bbabcf4499b89b2130dfa354cbe56ae84f67fc0)
...I also added the 'L' angles at the interior all the rivets, and the round beading around the edge...but need to wait for the putty to fully dry so I can wet sand it before taking a pic.
Jacq: Thanks for the layout pics. Much appreciated.
M
Thanks Marc
Probably demonstrating my ignorance but had never seen or heard of a radius gauge - always struggled making small and repetitive curves .
Found supplier in UK and now ordered :)
Model looks good ... the target of disguising the donor vehicle certainly being achieved.
Very cool... Marc,
How do you like useing ken's styrene molding techniques? a worthy process?
Mike
Quote from: gfadvance on November 22, 2009, 06:18:56 AM
Thanks Marc
Probably demonstrating my ignorance but had never seen or heard of a radius gauge - always struggled making small and repetitive curves .
Found supplier in UK and now ordered :)
Model looks good ... the target of disguising the donor vehicle certainly being achieved.
Could you post a link of the supplier you found for the radius gauge ??
Thakns in advance,
Marc
Marc988 { we have to define another name/number to distinguish you from Marc)
QuoteCould you post a link of the supplier you found for the radius gauge ??
here a link: http://www.abmtools.com/Gauges/Radius_Gauge.htm (http://www.abmtools.com/Gauges/Radius_Gauge.htm)
Jacq
Quote from: Marc988 on November 22, 2009, 10:58:27 AM
Could you post a link of the supplier you found for the radius gauge ??
Thakns in advance,
Marc
Hi, this is the supplier I ordered from in the UK http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/
just type in "radius gauge" in the search box ......... I have ordered the 1mm to 7mm unit
Quote from: jacq01 on November 22, 2009, 11:14:03 AM
Marc988 { we have to define another name/number to distinguish you from Marc)
Jacq
Oh no, not again ::) ;D
We had the same "issue" on another forum :o
Marc R, would you like to be the one with the "revolving" and "universe" stuff ;)
I'll sign off with Marc B ( if I don't forget ::) ;D )
Regards,
Marc B
Thanks BTW for the Link Jacq !!
Guys.....before everyone rundns out and spends their hard earned money on radius gauges, let me say they are not the end-all to making great radiuses......they do help me (I find them easier to use than a plastic circle template where the Xacto blade can get hung up on)....but they still require a lot of care and patience when cutting around, and always use a new blade when cutting arcs/circles...and you will still have to do some final sanding.
....also...my set of gauges looks a lot different than the ones posted in Jacqs link (so may be easier to use)......mine belonged to my father-in-law who used to be a master machinist at Douglas Aircraft during WW2, and later development of the X-3.....so they likely date from sometime between the 1940's-1960's. They were made by a German company called "Helios". The pic below shows the set and two of the gauge pieces. Note that each piece has 5 areas to check the differnt shapes/types/applications of the same radius.
BTW..re the name confusion....on job sites the workers rarely use my name .....usually they just yell someting ending in ".....tu madre" at me, I have no idea what they are saying...but I assume it is something about what a good son my mother raised......anyhow...I always know they are talking to me. They also seem to have given me a quaint nickname...something like "Pendecho" or such....I assume it means "buddy" or "friend". ;) ;D ....
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 22, 2009, 02:31:11 PM
usually they just yell someting ending in ".....tu madre" at me, I have no idea what they are saying...but I assume it is something about what a good son my mother raised......anyhow...I always know they are talking to me. They also seem to have given me a quaint nickname...something like "Pendecho" or such....I assume it means "buddy" or "friend". ;) ;D ....
M
I expect they are nothing more than colloquial terms of endearment... ;)
Paul
After getting home from a 13 hour day and some 700 miles on the road to have a family Thanksgiving, I needed to de-stress a bit, so I sat at the bench and did some mindless work......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz23.jpg&hash=86ebf026a0155224befa3b8a36cea53731191e2f)
The rolled edge at the cab walls was done using a continuous .030 styrene rod, set flush/tangent to the interior side. Each section of the wall was glued separately, then left to fully cure, while held in place with some Tamiya masking tape, before the rod was bent and attached to the next section. (The small blob of putty seen on in the corner above was due to the application of too much pressure on the plastic rod with the tweezers, while bending. This caused an indentation/divot in the rod which required some filling/repair.)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz24.jpg&hash=54f70ad583864e1bee8e0a09e1dba51afaf3f442)
.023" dia. rivets were punched from .010" styrene using the Waldron micro-punch and die set. Once cured, a Micro-Mark fiberglass pencil was run over them to ease the top edges. (To give a more arced top appearance.)
MR
They also seem to have given me a quaint nickname...something like "Pendecho" or such....I assume it means
Oh yea it's a term of endearment alright,.................. ;D
More like "Pendeho"
I have a set of radius gauges, just like yours, mine are from my father who was a master machinest for forty years. All of his tools were german made, no made in China back then,...........
It's time lke these I miss my father the most,.........if I had only listened,...............................
Gil
aka Mr Potato Head
Hey, Spud Boy...whats with the yellow micro type? Been out writing in the snow again?
That's the nice part of using someones handed down tools that you cared about or respected...when you use them, they're not just tools, but also memories......sort of like they're there looking over your shoulder. Makes you work just that little bit more exacting with them.
MR
This afternoon while walking through my workspace en route to the office, I was overcome by nothing short of Henry VIII syphalytic madness......I just couldn't stand that Bmann radiator grille any longer.
Without thinking, I took the bonnet assembly and ground down the face on the disk sander.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_26.jpg&hash=d3ad4d1032b644b9c5ede9835d651b95ddca62d1)
While not a perfect solution, I feel it's better than what used to be there! The grille was sanded down to .010" thick..to resemble a steel plate add-on.....and will likely be drilled with round holes in the area that the Deutz would have its radiator grille. I will add some bolt heads or rivets on the tabs, redo the detailing at the crank hole opening. and add a hook to hold the L&P chain. I did not want to try and take the surface all the way down, as it would have created other issues that would need to be dealt with.....and I was not in the mood to undertake.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_27.jpg&hash=ab3839d8aa15798461887bcb523dfabf49f6b3f9)
MR
you are a brave SOB or just mad? wow it came out nice, can't wait to see it finished.
Gil
You know what they (Molly Hatchet) say...."No guts, no glory!" ;) ;D ;D
Now if I could just figure out what kind of seat to do in the cab. I really am not in the mood to sculpt and form a tractor seat :-X :-\
MR
Good move. Bachpersonn has munted what should be a separate radiator and shield into a a single strange-looking item. If you've got an X-Y table it'll be easy enough to drill equally-spaced holes to represent a typical Deutz et al radiator screen.
:o "guts" or "nuts" ? ;) ;D
How about a rusted mesh screen welded in a small frame as a replacement for origninal screen which was lost somewhere along the way ?
As for the seat, some german small selfpropelled artillery pieces have a tractor-like seat which is replaced by a lot of military model builders by an etched version (from a complete etch-set) maybe someone has one for you. Another option might be a motorcycle seat. I have seen a small diesel somewhere using a chopper-like seat.
Marc B
I'm glad you saw the light and hacked down that nasty grill!
BTW I have some Precision scale tractor seats that are too big for 1:48, want one?
I can get dimensions later if you are interested.
-Marty
Marc,
You want a seat like this ;D ;D ;D ;D :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages39.fotki.com%2Fv1349%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5844574%2FDSCF0019-vi.jpg&hash=26d1b1ad246288e63d2a2c3f95ee53c5cc0fe544)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages43.fotki.com%2Fv1322%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5844574%2FDSCF0021-vi.jpg&hash=d15e26ba46adc5772d639ec03e503d617521647f)
;)
For the seat, you can use the photo etched kit from Part #35050 for theTamiya Marder III. It's this seat I'll use for my new gas loco :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.part.pl%2Fp35%2Fp35050.jpg&hash=3851842ef132a980dcb823d17a275c3190e077c5)
Franck
Franck ,
That sounds like an expensive seat . What do you do with the rest of the kit once you've taken the seats out ?
If it was mine I would have a wooden bench like your Gmeinder . With a cushion for the poor driver's backside .
Nick
Yow! That seat looks like it would be really uncomfortable with that big rivet in the center.
Yow is right... all sorts of crude and painful images spring immediately to mind. Without that bolt or rivet head though (you think they could have at least used a pan head ;)), it's a good looking seat for the job.
Paul
For some reason I'm reminded of that bad old joke about the "Perfect Couple" (expect I'll get sent back to the corner for this ;))
"He was a proctologist and she was a pain-in-the-ass!"
Paul
You guessed right, Paul. Go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Franck,
Great find, was not aware of these in that set, thanks!,...I will definitely have to buy this set.....though I think they are probably too small though for this model...if they are I will keep them for a future 1/35 model.
Nick,
I was trying not to do another box/plank set...though it is definitely rattling around in my head....because I built one in the last gas mech (the 1/35 one), and I was trying to be different on this :-\
Marty,
thanks for the offer, I have two of those seats from PSC...they are unfortunately a bit too small for 1/32.
....MAYBE..and just maybe...I am willing to try this....sclae the image that Frank found to the right dimensions, and then use it as a template to make a set out of Milliput... ::) :-\....kind of a PIA...but definitely a "learning experience"....could probably try doing the same using brass sheet (shudder).
Marc
Wait,..............who takes the picture,.......? Those are your two hands,.......?
Aren't they ????????
If there are people standing in the corner? I'll give them company; here are my two best proctologist lines:
"You ask to borrow one of my tools? But would you ask if I were a Proctologist?
I saw this on a business card, from a small town doctor
"Your diarrhea, is my bread and butter"
I'll be in the corner
Gil
Not seeing a proctologist any time soon
Hey...why does my thread end up with all the Ass jokes??!! ::) ;D ;D ;D
Move over.....here comes my ticket to the corner...... ;D
A proctologist just finished examining a patient and said "Good-bye Mr.
Smith, see you next week". The nurse walks in a few minutes later and
has a form for the Proctologist to sign. The nurse sees that he is
trying to write with his rectal thermometer and informs the doctor of his
mistake.....He exclaims "Oh man, some asshole stole my pen!"
MR
This is the best forum around, all it needs is sound!
A nice vaudevillian rim shot would be perfect!
Gil
Going back to the corner, could the next person bring some snacks
;D
Marc, I dont think scratching a seat (pun intended) would be a big deal.
Draw it up, paste it to a piece of brass, drill and punch?
-Marty
if you do draw one up could I get a copy?
Russ... I think you need to build a bigger corner ;D
Paul
The way things are going, I think the whole website is the corner! -- Russ
At least while all the other forums are counting rivets and planing the end of the world!
We are having fun!
Here's to a bigger corner! woo hoo
don't forget the chips and dip ;D
Gil
Mr Potato Head
Wow guy's, you're right, what nonsense!
The real thing...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv734%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2Fseat1-vi.jpg&hash=4a904054de69f08b5e310d24ea896b491ca87b92)
The rivet is smaller, wow, macro photo is unforgivable :P :P :-\ ::) ::) ::)
@ Marc, the photo etched from Part is for 1:35 scale Marder III, this type of seat was standard, so it's the good size...
@ Nick, the set from Part cost $16.60, and you are right, it is expensive for a seat only! But in the set you find two seat ;D ;D ;D and a lot of things that can be used for us, for example, toolbox, tools, tools clamps, etc..
Franck
Quote from: lab-dad on December 01, 2009, 04:51:52 AM
Marc, I dont think scratching a seat (pun intended) would be a big deal.
Draw it up, paste it to a piece of brass, drill and punch?
-Marty
if you do draw one up could I get a copy?
Marty, I scratched build the seat on my model, like this...
If you want I can send you the Autocad file... ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv556%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FOMZSEAT1-vi.jpg&hash=5fd381b2942e26e394e6fc47262da4cb0efac23a)
Franck
Franck,
Superbe!
Si ce n'est pas un problème plaît écrivez-moi une copie aussi bien (de préférence vers le bas enregistré pour ACAD-2002 ou 2003.)
Merci.
Marc
Franck:
Moi aussi, s'il vous plait. Je suis désolé, mon français n'est plus ce qu'elle était, mais si c'est pas un problème, J'aimerais recevoir une copie du fichier est trop. Merci...
Paul
No clue what the other guys are talking about ;) ;D ;D ;D ....... but can I get a copy of the autocad file too ??
Thanks,
Marc B
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on December 01, 2009, 12:35:51 PM
Wow guy's, you're right, what nonsense!
The real thing...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv734%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2Fseat1-vi.jpg&hash=4a904054de69f08b5e310d24ea896b491ca87b92)
The rivet is smaller, wow, macro photo is unforgivable :P :P :-\ ::) ::) ::)
@ Marc, the photo etched from Part is for 1:35 scale Marder III, this type of seat was standard, so it's the good size...
@ Nick, the set from Part cost $16.60, and you are right, it is expensive for a seat only! But in the set you find two seat ;D ;D ;D and a lot of things that can be used for us, for example, toolbox, tools, tools clamps, etc..
Franck
Franck ,
Did you say who makes the Marder III photo etch parts , I can't see if you did in your posts ? Or am I being blind ?
I'm afraid I have taken the easy/cop out option and bought my locos from my new best friend Bernard Snoodyk . I let him worry about where he gets the seats from !
I'm sorry my French isn't up to the standard of those other two Smartie Pants . I shall endeavour to do better in future ,
Nick
from Steve Martin "what happened, what happened? He spoke French!!!"
Thanks for the picture Frank! the cad file would do me no good I just saved the jpg.
How big is a "tractor seat"?
I saved the image and printed it out, but it is too large.
Do you have a dimension so I can scale it to print the right size?
May be center line to center line?
-Marty
Marty,
measure the width of your bottom and superimpose it ( in scale :D) over the drawing. That way it always fit.
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on December 02, 2009, 05:22:43 AM
Marty,
measure the width of your bottom and superimpose it ( in scale :D) over the drawing. That way it always fit.
Jacq
Jacq ,
Should he do the measuring before or after Christmas ? Because the measurements are bound to be different !
Nick
Okay, you two: Go back to the corner and stand there until further notice! -- Russ
Quote from: shropshire lad on December 02, 2009, 01:37:04 AM
Franck ,
Did you say who makes the Marder III photo etch parts , I can't see if you did in your posts ? Or am I being blind ?
I'm afraid I have taken the easy/cop out option and bought my locos from my new best friend Bernard Snoodyk . I let him worry about where he gets the seats from !
I'm sorry my French isn't up to the standard of those other two Smartie Pants . I shall endeavour to do better in future ,
Nick
Nick,
I gave the brand name yesterday... :-\ :-\
The photo etched kit is produced by
Part #35050 for theTamiya Marder III. It's this seat I'll use for my new gas loco :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.part.pl%2Fp35%2Fp35050.jpg&hash=3851842ef132a980dcb823d17a275c3190e077c5)
http://www.part.pl/p35/p35.html
Franck
Jacq, Nick, you crack me up! :D :D :D :D
Marc; Paul; Marc B; Marty, I can send a copy of the Autocad file. I will indicate the various drilling diameters for the holes, I have at home a real Deutz seat!
The drawing is in 1:35 scale.
I'll save the file for Autocad 2002.
Franck
Thanks Franck... much appreciated. If you PM me I'll send you my email address.
Paul
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on December 02, 2009, 12:06:14 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on December 02, 2009, 01:37:04 AM
Franck ,
Did you say who makes the Marder III photo etch parts , I can't see if you did in your posts ? Or am I being blind ?
I'm afraid I have taken the easy/cop out option and bought my locos from my new best friend Bernard Snoodyk . I let him worry about where he gets the seats from !
I'm sorry my French isn't up to the standard of those other two Smartie Pants . I shall endeavour to do better in future ,
Nick
Nick,
I gave the brand name yesterday... :-\ :-\
The photo etched kit is produced by Part #35050 for theTamiya Marder III. It's this seat I'll use for my new gas loco :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.part.pl%2Fp35%2Fp35050.jpg&hash=3851842ef132a980dcb823d17a275c3190e077c5)
http://www.part.pl/p35/p35.html
Franck
Well , why didn't you say so then , Franck . Here's me thinking you were telling me that the part you used is part number 35050 by someone who you didn't mention , when in fact what you were saying is that the part you used was part number 35050 by a company who call themselves Part . If only you had made yourself clearer then I wouldn't have had to make myself look a part , sorry I meant Prat !
Nick
Nick No problem ;) I agree, the brand name "Part" has threw the confusion!
Franck
Hi Guys
I custom made a die for this style of "tractor" seat, which allows me to press form the basic shape in brass. After the basic shape is pressed the rime is finished off and the perforations punched out in the rivetting machine. This way I can produce the 3 basic types used on most industrial locomotives and machinery.
If anyone wants one of these seats let me know and I will be happy to send you one for the cost of the postage.
contact me direct at bernards@greenwaybanks.com.au
have fun
Bernard
I finally couldn't take the Bmann counterweights anymore, so this evening I used a Dremel tool with cutting bit, to grind them off, and give them a more realistic appearance.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz28.jpg&hash=0eabedf56cf437e33ebe5c76629f22d4909847c6)
MR
DAMN!!!!!!!!
This is looking better and better!
Pretty soon there will be nothing left of the original loco!
Really making 2' in 1/32 looking apealing!
-Marty
Whew! I thought this might happen when you took out the grill! Bye Bye Bachmann...
Looks better and better. One of these things approaching it's end ?
Here some reference material : http://www.ingr.co.uk/intro_rlys.html (http://www.ingr.co.uk/intro_rlys.html)
Jacq
Thanks guys....and thanks for the cool link Jaqc.
Haven't had much time to do any model building, but yesterday evening I just had to take care of something that was still bugging me.....once again another sep backwards first....
I completely sanded off the remaining profile of the Bmann grille, and cut a hole for a new screen.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz30.jpg&hash=4e3bff6a4cb3203979b1a31b80f18dae710fbdc4)
Originally I had drawn a perforated screen in cad, and was going to try and drill it into the plastic on the XY table, but I was not in the mood to deal with it, and the plastic was too thick anyhow...so it would have looked wrong/odd anyhow. (thinning the plastic from the inside was not really an option due to the nature of the details already in place).
In the end, I dug through all my PE sets and left-overs, and found a grille that was almost identical to the one I had drawn, in a set from LionRoar for the "Marder" tank. (BTW. I used the VectorWorks laser cut bolt heads at the crank hole plate)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz31.jpg&hash=8942793a0b66fb19fc7c86ceb11392dfdd7772f1)
Though on the real loco the screen is on the inside of the sheet metal pace, due to the plastic thinning issues (and just having to get this done) I figured it would be "good enough" to place it on the surface.......if I have to, I'll justify it as being a slide in perforated steel plate to protect the screen behind ;) ::).
Lastly everything was given a light first coat of primer.....now can go through and do any necessary pick-up/cleanup where needed, and set my sights on finishing the cab interior.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz33.jpg&hash=ba7f9b2f7fedc46e74b016db3215f0f45d3215a8)
....it's not anywhere as nice, or accurate, as Bernards locos....and it took a hell of a lot more work than I was planning to put into it.....but hey....what do you want for $35- ::) ;D
MR
Best $35.00 I have ever seen, hey where did you get that magic Canadian Penny?,.......
I like the grill, it worked out better, can't wait to see the cab interior
Gil
shoveling snow daily
Marc, The new grill look's great ;) if you want to make 15 bucks, ill take it off your hands for $50.00 ::) Craig
Thanks Gill.
....errr, that's a Euro Cent, ....for the benefit of our continental members. ;)
MR
Shucks Craig...I wouldn't want to cheat you out of $15 by selling you a loco that's not in your scale. ;) ;D
MR
your right....i could use that money towards my LUMBER order on the new gas station. :) Craig
Marc,
really clean build, you have certainly changed the origonal and developed a completely new character.
Look forward to seeing what you do for the controls ..... hopefully I will be able to "borrow" some ideas
Gordon
Marc now that you have come this far and it looks fantastic, did you ever considered that you could have scratched the chassis and the bonnet? You do such a great job scratch building, it seams to me you could have thrown away everything except the motor and drive train and built the rest? The drive train is hidden by the counter weights no one would have known. I think you could have widened the gauge to ¾" and turned the drive around 180 degrees and hide that hideous tower gear cover.
What are your thoughts?
Gil
Gil,
After this last set of changes, I pretty much came to a sim conclusion about just having scratchbuilt the bonnet....at least I could have gotten a more "Deutz" shape to it....BUT....the benefit of using the Bmann one was that it is made of pretty stiff/ridgid plastic, which holds it's shape (and holds up to handling) far better than a thinner vaccuum formed styrene one.
Re. the motor & drive.....your suggestion may be good for others, but I am pretty much a retard when it comes to motors/drives/electricity in model RRing...so for me to do any changes would have been a real PIA undertaking...and pretty much doing something I just don't really care to learn about.....hence the use of the Bmann to begin with.
The whole project was really just aimed a producing a plausible, non-cartoonish, non-carcature-ish loco (as most Bmann bashes I have seen tend to end up as) from a readily available mechanism,...and doing so with relative ease/simplicity. I think I did OK on the first part....but since I just can't seem to let well enough alone, the second part got a bit out of hand ;) ;D.........BUT....the whole thing is still easily within the realm of any modeler to do.
I have a second of these locos, and am considering doing it as something like a CKD gas mechanical. This loco is outside frame, and has no drive rods, and tapered/sloped bonnet sides (so I would need to vacuum or heat form it)....not sure if I can do it in 1/35 (because of the room the motor & DCC crap need)...so it may end up having to be 1/32 as well. (Though this loco will have room for a motor & DCC, it will not actually have one in it, because the one that came with it did not work properly)
QuoteI think you could have widened the gauge to ¾"
....ummm...probably....but, why?......just so it can be 2' gauge?.......maybe I happen to like 20" gauge. ;).....besides you know darn well I consider 3/8 (1:32) a "wrong" scale for this kind of stuff. ;) ;D ......and thus will likely just end up as shelf/closet urchins anyhow.
MR
You are so, uh, contrary! Talented as all hell but contrary. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on December 16, 2009, 12:49:18 AM
You are so, uh, contrary! ......-- Russ
And that is a surprise to you?! ;) ;D ;D ;D
MR
OK regauge it to 11/16 or what ever the correct gauge is for 1:35, I just thought that 2 foot would work out better for you and all the rolling stock you would build? My bad, I like the outcome very much and you turned a toy into a very cool realistic piece. We all know that you have demons and sometimes can't leave well enough alone. What we sometimes consider perfection, you think of as unacceptable, we love that about you that you seldom compromise. Hey this is all the back slapping your getting from me.
Gil
I look forward to seeing what you come up with if you have a go at a CKD loco .They produced some interesting machines. Would it be a BN30R you are thinking about ?
Don't listen listen to those other philistines . Make it 1/35th scale and it will be as near to 600mm gauge as you would need .
Have you got any of Andreas Christopher's Die Feldbahn books? There are loads of pictures of those sorts of locos in them .
Nick
Nick,
I don't have Andreas' book....was unaware there was one...but I did find loads of images on the web. What i did not find though...and if you have any it would be a huge help, are photos of the locos works...IE without the hood, and even more pref, gutted down to the frame and deck plate...or without the deck plate. (One idea I had for the bits & clutter was to build an parially scrapped or in rebuild gas mech loco that was just the frame with or without the drive train, or one that was gutted down to the deck with only motor and radaitor still in place.)
I was actually considering the BN15R rather than the 30.....though the 30 would probably work better with a modified Bmann frame in 1/32 (due to motor & DCC space needed.)
...BUT...
...it seems that the whole thing is somewhat of a moot point at the moment.....I went to look for my second frame...and found everything from the second Bmann loco except for the frame ??? :-\....no idea where it went :-X.....SO...this puts a bit of a damper on starting this project....however, if I do start it, it will be built straight to 1/35 scale....andat best it will be set up to use a 'black beetle' drive should one be inclined to do so....otherwise it will simply be a static model. :)
Below are a couple of drawings of the 15 and the 30 from old CKD manuals.
MR
Marc ,
There are in fact 10 volumes of Die Feldbahn ,all dealing with different areas of Germany and Austria . Except for volume 7 , which is devoted to 75 years of Schoma locos . I have managed to get hold of six , with another on the way, and I am constantly looking at them for inspiration . They are not easy to get hold of , I have got most of mine from Germany , but are well worth the not insignificant amount that they cost if you want reference photos of the type of loco that you are thinking of building . I recommend volumes 9 and 10 to start with ,should you decide to get hold of any .
I shall have a look through the books I have to see if there are any photos of what you are looking for .
Have you tried looking at some of the German Feldbahn museums websites ? They tend to have lots of photos of stripped down locos . Whether there are any CKDs amongst them I couldn't say . I'll have a look at some later this evening , after work .
Nick
Thanks for all the info Nick. Very intersting. I will have to keep a lookout for them next year when I'm in Europe, there are already several books I have found there, but they don't want to ship to the US, so I will pick them up then.
Please don't go to any trouble looking for those image...I have been to scores of the German Feldbahn sites and have cropped some thousand or so images from there...with a number being of stripped locos to some degree or other. I was just inquiring in case you had something readily at hand specif. re. the CKDs. .....also it may be a while till I get to the next loco..decided I want to paint this one first, and finish painting the 1/35 one I did...so no use spending your limited time on this at the moment.
MR
They are excellent books Marc. I have two of the series that were brought back from Germany, one by Andreas Christopher and the other by Frank Harding. Unfortunately I don't read German so it's a slow process to go through the text, but luckily there are more photos than text :)
Paul
www.feldbahn-richter.de
Here are two gifts, but please tell me what CKD stands for ???
Thanks
Gil
Gil,
I do not recall what it stands for ......it's something in Czech. ;)
I actually have PDFs of xeroxed service & parts brochures (25 pgs +/-) with elevation, parts & detail drawings for the CKD bn15r & bn30r, that I found on the web somewhere about a year or so ago......they are 866kb ea...and they are in german.
I also have sim brochures for the NS1, NS2, and (2) for the NS2F. ...these are all larger files (up to 65 pages)...so they run up to 2.68mb ea. (so I would send under seperate emails)
LIMITED TIME OFFER:
If any of the active/participating (not lurking) forum members is interested, I would be glad to email them a copy of these. (I will of course need your email if I do not have it, or it is not in your profile info.)
MR
For me thanks, but no thanks, I have way to many projects in front of me, I like this build, it has good proportions and is different.
Gil
I'll take you up on your Limited Time Offer Marc... thanks
Paul
yes please.
Jacq
Marc,
I would also like to take you up on your generous offer . I think you have my email address . Let me know if you haven't .
I have looked through my set of books and while there are photos of various CKD locos , they are all in use and none are stripped down .
As I suspected , you are way ahead of me when it comes to collecting images from the interweb , so I guess I won't be able to increase your knowledge on the subject .
I'm not sure you will be pick any of the books up "just -like-that" from anywhere in Germany , although having said that , the first two I bought , I got from a bookshop at Koln railway station .
Nick
Karl Paskarb <http://www.schmalspurverlag.de/> used to be excellent for these sorts of books, if you could deal with his somewhat less than internet-friendly approach to ordering and payment.
Quote from: Krusty on December 18, 2009, 02:34:17 AM
Karl Paskarb <http://www.schmalspurverlag.de/> used to be excellent for these sorts of books, if you could deal with his somewhat less than internet-friendly approach to ordering and payment.
I have held off from buying from him as I have heard , rightly or wrongly , that he is somewhat tricky to get hold of . Though he does have a very comprehensive list of books for sale and I'm sure I'd spend a lot of money with him if they were all laid out in front of me so that I could see what I'd be buying .
I am in the fortunate position of having a mother who can speak German ( well , she ought to as she is German) so I get her to phone up and pay for whatever I want and I pay her back . This means that I can look at various German booksellers websites and see what is available . She then finds out if they take credit cards or not or whether I have to send Euros . The chap who sells the 1/32nd bricks I bought doesn't take cards so I sent him cash , but all the booksellers she has dealt with do take cards . It certainly makes life easier .
Nick
Marc,
don't know if you have seen this, if not its not the greatest picture but it may help ... its tagged as as an NS1 but bonnet/hood looks a bit different to me ........... but then I am no expert
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fbn15.jpg&hash=37f937d3edeb49e73e45245729a1ab9345666b6a)
I would keen to receive the details you offered on the NS1 the others are bit big for me, you should have my e-mail address.
Gordon
Gordon,
Thanks for that great pic....do not have that one , so nice find. I do not think that the loco is a NS....I think it is actually a CKD or maybe a Diema.......regardless, it's the kind of pic I was looking for.
Will do do a bulk mailing of the PDFs Today and tommorrow. I think the CKDs are in your size range, as well as the Ns1 and small Ns2......the Ns2f (3-axle jobbies) are the ones that are probably too large.
Marc
Thanks Marc,
Got your e-mails & attachments, very much appreciated .
Thank you
Gordon
The error was mine the stripped down loco is actually a CKD BN15R.
Here is the link to the site where the photo was found http://www.feldbahnseite.de/index.htm?http://www.feldbahnseite.de/m_sepp.htm
Although not a stripped chassis the last photo is an interesting shot
I had not heard of the CKD before - is it a Czech prototype? I love the slab side frames.
Probably you have seen my 7mm scale Deutz -
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kbscale.com%2Fimages%2Fdeutz1.jpg&hash=27c6fd9d19a29cfcf72ea640b2a5da80b32ba95b)
d
Quote from: Roughboy on December 17, 2009, 09:37:43 AM
They are excellent books Marc. I have two of the series that were brought back from Germany, one by Andreas Christopher and the other by Frank Harding. Unfortunately I don't read German so it's a slow process to go through the text, but luckily there are more photos than text :)
Paul
Hi Paul,
Sorry for the late reply but better late than never ;)
If you need any help with some German translations just let me know.
Cheers,
Marc
Thanks to Jerry Lawrence and Bernard Snoodyke (Jerry brought me one of Bernard's wonderful PE tractor seats), I was able to finish the cab details on this loco.
So now I think I can call this one pretty done, and ready for paint. I think I wil probably do with a dark green upper, and a red lower, paint scheme.
I just need to decide how worn I want to make her, and what techniques/approach I want to use. ::)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_132Deutz_35.jpg&hash=dc42b007779449e446f0fb1632280884aa943c0d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_132Deutz_36.jpg&hash=09f6bb6f4fdc24e2ddaf1db9ce222fcb7bc8521c)
MR
Like the detail work .... can you give me a few hints as to how you did the brake handle, especially the release handle and the ratchet rack.
thanks
Yea where'd the lever set come from?
Very nice!!!!!
And this one actually runs!?
-Marty
Marc ,
Looking good so far , I look forward to seeing what you come up for the paint scheme . I have a number of photos of these sorts of locos with your proposed paint scheme and they do look good , especially with all the chips and scratches they accumulate.
Will you be putting the back on before painting ?
No "e" in Snoodyk .
Nick
Marc: Looks very good. Paint scheme sounds positively festive... ;) really looking forward to your updates on your painting process.
Marc988: Talk about late replies, I didn't see your post until just now. Thanks for the translation offer. I've been using Google Translate for the occasions when I really need to know what's contained in the text. It's not 100% accurate but seems to be close enough. Thanks tho for the offer.
The Feldbahn books btw are available in the US now from Decker's Trains (http://www.deckerstrains.com/default.htm). I believe Mike has numbers 1-16 in stock plus some CDs and videos.
Paul
Hi Marc
the "Deutz" is looking great. also good to see the seat put to good use. FYI it is not photo etched, but press formed on a home made punch & die with the holes punched individually.
comment about the gearshift mechanism on the Deutz; dont forget to add the reverse selector, which can either be a seperate lever on the side of the gearbox running back to the selector mechanism that is situated at the rear of the "gearbox" or a direct acting lever under the seat. the lever into the top of the box only selects the gear ratios not forward/reverse.
contact me direct and I will send you some sketches.
have fun & stay cool
Bernard
Hi Marc
gearbox detail attached. will send 2 more to illustrate the way the reverse / forward selector is fitted
Bernard
Quote from: Roughboy on February 28, 2010, 09:05:56 AM
The Feldbahn books btw are available in the US now from Decker's Trains (http://www.deckerstrains.com/default.htm). I believe Mike has numbers 1-16 in stock plus some CDs and videos.
Paul
Paul ,
I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing . To my knowledge the series of books by Andreas Christopher called Die Feldbahn has only reached voume 10 and the first three volumes are quite difficult to get hold of , so maybe you are thinking of something else .
Nick
Thanks guys. Sorry for the delayed response, but after once again a particularly painful flight over the bars, I had to wait to somewhat come out of my drug addled state before trying to type.
Gordon:
The brake release handle was made using basically using a sim approach to what Marty did on his large scale Gas Mech.
The handles is .015"x.080" strip styren, that was slightly tapered (about .015) on the drivers seat side, from about 2/3 of the way up. Then the handle area was notched from the front. The release lever was made by bending a piece of .001" sheet brass over the edge (which had ben radiused) of a piece of .015 Styrene sheet (so that the brass was equal on both sides). I then used a single edged razor blade and a delrin tipped hammer to punch-cut thr basic rough shape on both sides. Then I removed the rough piece from the styrene, and while holding it a pair of tweezers, did the final shaping and edge clean-up with some cut-down sanding sticks. Lastly the curvature of the release handle was made bu cutting the desired arc in a piece if .015 styrene using one of my radius guides.....sliding the brass piece over the styrene...and then pressing the 'positive' shape of the raduius guide into the cut area where the brass piece was and thus press forming the handle to the curve.
The rod piece is simply .012 (if I recall) breass wire, into which I bent a small eyelet at each end, so that the ACC would have something to really grip it and hold it in place.
The ratchet rack (IE the teethed interior pieces) were from my scrap box....they were from a Grandt On3 porter kit....and are unfortunately delrin.....so need some drilling and fitting to make them stay in place. The sides of the ratchet area is just scratched from styrene.
Marty:
Though it could run....I have the motor and DCC thing....and the hood is made to be removeble for access...I probaly will not install it in the end. Knowing I can and that it would run, is good enough for me.
Paul:
I actually have a particular loco in mind that has the colors and wear I am thinking of......I will pull the pics off my HD and post them. It's a pretty common ssheme.
Bernard:
Thanks for the correction...I thought it was PE and then formed. It's a great seat thank you. Figures youo would catch the lack of a reverse lever ::) ;)....I was trying to sneak by without it...or a most maybe just a projecting shaft that a handle or wrench fits onto like in some locos....was worried about the space as it is already cramped...and I was basically just being lazy ;D......but now that you have called me on it, and so kinly offered the info, I guess I have no way around it :-X ;D I will send you my email address.
Nick
I don't plan on assembling it before painting, because the upper works are all one color, and the frame another, so painting the sub assemblies seperately is much easier and requires far less masking and trying to get into tight spaces. I am also planning on using a different chipping method for the upper works than the frame.....the upper works will likely be painted on chips, while the frame will be done with the hairspray technique...so keeping these unassembled will make this process easier. I will then do filters, fading and rain streaking before assembly...and maybe some rust....than assemble and do the remaining rust, and the dirt dust and grime.
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 01, 2010, 03:00:55 AM
Thanks guys. Sorry for the delayed response, but after once again a particularly painful flight over the bars, I had to wait to somewhat come out of my drug addled state before trying to type.
Mark,
Ouch, mountain bike crash? I know your pain all too well.
By the way, very nice modeling. Geoff
May be you need to take up a safer hobby like para sailing or MMA?
Buy an exercycle and a good mountain scenery DVD. Otherwise you're going to land on your hands someday and crunch your modeling career. I'm far less worried about your head. The little Deutz will be another gem if you live long enough to finish it. -- Russ
Hey Marc
don't let this bunch talk you away from cycling. it is and will remain one of the best sports that one can partake in.
I am post 60, have been road racing since I was 9 and race every weekend with the vet's. training around 300Km's per week. too many falls to have kept a record, but only total senility will keep me off the bike.
rather counters sitting at an office desk all day and the model building bench in the evenings.
Keep them wheels turning.
Bernard
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 01, 2010, 01:07:00 AM
Quote from: Roughboy on February 28, 2010, 09:05:56 AM
The Feldbahn books btw are available in the US now from Decker's Trains (http://www.deckerstrains.com/default.htm). I believe Mike has numbers 1-16 in stock plus some CDs and videos.
Paul
Paul ,
I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing . To my knowledge the series of books by Andreas Christopher called Die Feldbahn has only reached voume 10 and the first three volumes are quite difficult to get hold of , so maybe you are thinking of something else .
Nick
Probably a different series Nick. Mike says the ones he sells are from Karl Paskarb. He has a brief detailed list on his site of the volumes he has available.
Paul
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 01, 2010, 03:00:55 AM
Thanks guys. Sorry for the delayed response, but after once again a particularly painful flight over the bars, I had to wait to somewhat come out of my drug addled state before trying to type.
OUCH... high-siding is not an approved dismount method Marc. Glad to know injuries weren't too serious. As young as you are, recovery should be a lot quicker than it is for us older guys. I was fortunate enough to never crash when I was racing, but had a few spectacular dismounts when training. Real scars come tho when you have to lay down a motorcycle. Those damn cats eyes in the center line will really do a number on ya...
So, when you crash a road bike you get road rash. When you crash a mountain bike do you get bush rash?
Paul
Paul, go back to the corner and stand there for a month.
Racing bicycles are man's most elegant mechanical invention.
Russ
Two words: Roll cage.
Wrap some of that aero saran wrap crap around it and start a whole new trend.
Thanks for all the support..much appreciated.....today I ended up in the ER where they gave me his really cool drug Adavan or such....then for over an hour stuck me into a small tube that made lots of noise.....now back home...and the adavan is still really sweet!!!....although tomorrow it's of to the Doc and the Neurosurgeon.
I'll give up modeling before cycling.....but there has got to be an easier way to collect soil and gravel samples. :-\ ::) ;D
HapPy TrAiLS.....
Mrk.
Okay, now you have me worried. What exactly happened to you? (And where can I get some of those drugs??) -- Russ
That's some good shit!
Marc, do what the Dr. says!
Feel better!
-Marty
Marc
There has to be an easier way to get drugs!!!
Hope your feeling better, do what they tell you to do!!
Jerry
Yikes! Sounds like you must have had a worse than average spill. I hope you'll be mended soon.
Good drugs, scans, neurosurgeon... sounds more serious than your average tumble... possible concussion? Keeping good thoughts, hope you mend soon.
Paul
Thanks for the kind words...so far the MRI was clean, .....still have to go see the neurologist, and then a recheck with the GP.
It didn't seem like a bad fall at the time....doing a comfortable 20-22mph downhill......and even though I thought I was square enough to the rut, the sides were appparently soft (from the rain)...so it grabbed the front wheel, turned it, and sent me flying. Hard slam and about 15' of skidding on hardpack and gravel on my right side....but no head contact.
I prefer to get my bad falls out of the way at the beginning of the year....that way I don't have to worry for the rest of the year. ;D
...the MRI machine was way scarrier than the fall. ::)
....and now back to our regular modeling program. ;D
Marc
Well that sounds encouraging...
And now the big question: How much damage to the bike?
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on March 03, 2010, 10:27:56 PM
And now the big question: How much damage to the bike?
Paul
ZERO...not a scratch or ding....a bit of scuffing and dirt on the right grip, some dirt on the kevlar seat tail, and the computer/mount was rotated about 5-degees. I will be saving up for a new jersey, arm warmers and bib shorts though....they are beyond repair (I think there are laws in CA governing how much you are allowed to exose yourself ;D )
Marc
Sounds like you are okay and they are just making sure it's not worse than it seems. Glad you and the bike are in decent shape. Please try to stop catapulting yourself off the darned contraption; the idea is to sit there and pedal. Your little "sick leaves" are rather disconcerting to us. -- Russ
Thanks Russ.
"well" is a bit of a relative term. At the moment we still have no idea why yesterday I had a complete loss of motor skills on my left side, and why the world looked like some ki d of Picasso painting without any sense of perspective or level horizon.....the episode lasted about 10 min ........and then just slowly went away. Other than that I am peachey.......and will ride if it's nice out tomorrow.
MR
That's called a flashback son. Pennance for old times I reckon.
Seriously, I hope things get better, this doesnt sound that good.
Where you able to speak in that period ?? I second Chuck in hoping things getting better.
Jacq
glad your on the mend! mit meds !
The painting begins....and it's not pretty.......yet.
Pre shading done using Tamiya "Sea Blue" (XF-17).
Base color on frame and around edges of cab walls is a custom mix of Tamiya "Hull Red" XF-9, "Flat Black" XF-1, and a touch of "Flat Yellow" XF-3. This mix was applied in areas that will be chipped using the Hairspray method. (the other areas will be pianted on chips using Vallejo paints.)
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MR
Mark,
Nice work. I am very interested in seeing your painting and weathering techniques. I've never tried the hairspray approach. Geoff
I was just doing some hairspray chipping last night. It works very well.
Did i miss something?............. someone fell off there bike and cracked there melon ;D Craig
This time they managed to put Humpty back together again. This time.
Quote from: mobilgas on March 18, 2010, 09:50:30 AM
Did i miss something?............. someone fell off there bike and cracked there melon ;D Craig
Yeah, and when he came to he started painting his models with hairspray, PAM cooking spray, cheeze whiz...anything in a can. It was weird.
No, no. You guys don't know Marc well enough. It's when he doesn't use Pam, hairspray, fingerpaints, or guacamole that you should begin to worry! -- Russ
Guacamole and Cheez Whiz... :o I must have missed that SBS. Must have something to do with chipping... ;D
Paul
Hmmm, Pam IS a no stick material....
How do you get it off the model ? With your tongue ?
Nick
OH FINE!......I finally push my self to work on my projects, and get up the courage to post my work, and this is what I get!....sniff....sniff....see If I try and finish anything anymore! :'( :'( :'(
MR ;) ;D
Anymore, Marc?
(in a bart simpson voice)
is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet? is it done yet?
You guys forgot the tequila in the secret ingredients! ;D
Quote from: lab-dad on March 19, 2010, 05:47:10 PM
You guys forgot the tequila in the secret ingredients! ;D
And the salt...
Speaking of Tequila...here is a quick one hour experiment I did after we got back from the mexican restaurant and having margaritas.....
I needed a piece if cut metal signage that would bend like metal, and when seen from the backside would look like old metal......so.......
You take a piece of aluminum pie tin that was etched in Ferric-Chloride (cut alumin. to size before etching)....
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Take a Micro-Scale decal, and blast it with baking soda to fade the colors and spot wear through the decal.
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Then apply the decal to the etched alumin., set with Decal setting solution, lightly brush some CMK light rust pigment into the chipped areas, add some random spotting with Abt-502 rust oils, Seal with Model Master "Lusterless Flat"....do a bit more spotting with the oils, and dab some Bragdon's dark rust pigment along the edges......then glue in place using ACC.
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It's no Chuck Doan sign...but for an hour's worth of work it's passable, and I definitely think the decal wear method has some future potential...especially with a bit more experimentation.
Marc
That looks terrific!
Thanks Ray.
I feel the rusting with the oils and pigments is a too spotty/splotchy and undefined/un-thought-out...I blame the tequila.....though I do have to admit I fought myself on streaking....if I streaked it in the direction it would have when it was being used as an ad...they would run horizontal in the final application...and would look odd...despite being correct....so I streaked lightly on the vertical in some areas.
Marc
[EDIT: I just realised I posted the experiment in the wrong thread..it belongs in the "5x5x7" thread....oh well....once again I blame the Tequila.]
Go drink in the corner. -- Russ
Great idea!!!!!
Drinks are on me!
-Marty
Had some time to work on initial steps for the painting of the frame.
First coat was a mix of Tamiya, Flat Red, and Flat Blue,....lightened about 20% with Flat White. (into this mix I added some "Clear" as well to give it a slightly satin finish). A second fading coat was applied with same mix, but an other 10 white added, and applied to broader surfaces and edges...leaving inside corners the first coat color.
After about 15 mins, a very thinned random/varying mix of Vallejo #944 "Old Rose" and #820 "Off White" was randomly sponged on with a fine sponge, and slightly "worked" on the surface with a damp sponge of distilled water.
Next the frame was chipped (hairspray method). In some areas you can see I wore through the colors down to the primer or bare metal frame....this will be touched-up prior to proceeding, using Vallejo colors.
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MR
Looking good , Marc . I just love the faded red/pink paintwork , which is the sort of effect I tried to achieve on my locos . What I am slightly confused about is at what point you applied the hairspray . I would have guessed before you applied any red paint but as you didn't say in your post I am not sure . Can you expand your methodology slightly for us slower witted participants ! Ta , very much ,
Nick
... And us geniuses, too. By the way, you've done a more than adequate job so far. -- Russ
Thanks guys.
Nick:
You are correct sir, the HS was applied over the brown-black base color, before any of the red coats. Sorry I wasn't clear...have just gotten a bit lazy on getting into the HS method/application.
The faded pink was a real must for me, as it is prevalent in so many photos of small locos, and I had been scratching my head how to get the look of it I was after. The sponging on of the thin/translucent layers of pink/white was purely a sudden idea, that luckily seemed to work. The chips will not be so contrasty on the finished model, as there is still a lot of weathering (rainmarks, washes, dust, grime and dirt) that will work to blend everything together.
Marc
Hi Marc,
really pleased to see this one back off the shelf and as ever very intrigued to see where you go with it. Always very inspiring- as hopefully evidenced by the attached. No where near as accomplished as your work and no doubt you will be able to highlight lots of areas where I am going wrong but I'm still practicing!
These are a 1/43 Nigel Lawton Simplex and KB Scale tipper.
Thanks for the inspiration- keep it coming!
James
ps. hope you don't mind me posting these here- it seemed fitting as Nick (Shropshire Lad) built the tipper- thanks Nick.
James,
Thanks for the kind words.
Wonderfuly done pieces. Even more so considering the scale. I don't know what your seeing, but I can't see anything you are doing wrong.....maybe adding a bit of caked dust/dirt in some of the nooks and crannies, and on some of the horizontal surfaces, on the tipper.
The pressed sleepers are very cool, did you make those?
BTW, No worries about posting in the thread...I am not particular about it being "mine"...anything that furthers the discussion or provides an example, should be welcome in any thread.
Hi Marc,
glad you liked the pics and thanks for the constructive advice- I always actually feel a bit disappointed if I post here and don't get some criticism/ comments- am here to learn.
The track was made up for the photo's for an article in the NG&I REVIEW- it's soldered up from brass shim and code 82 rail with Grandt NBW's for the clips. Hope Russ doesn't mind me mentioning a different publication here- an article for the Annual is next on my list.
Will add some 'gunk' as suggested to the nooks and crannies or 'crooks and nannies' as we know them in our house! ;)
Attached a couple before paint- this is a PE kit with resin radiator and exhaust- goes together like a dream and a separate 6mm motor to run the fan with resistors so the fan starts up before the loco pulls away- very cool!
James
Some very effective weathering showing up here. Marc, I really like the sign technique.
Blasting the decal before applying it is a great touch. Love the red loco, too.
Thanks for the info.
That is looking great. Very good fade. I also just recently tested the Vallejo paint in a similer fashion. It has different qualities than Polly Scale.
Marc, the loco is looking good! The red paint looks authentically faded.
James, the Simplex and tipper are terrific!
James ,
The Simplex and skip wagon are looking good , as Marc says , all that is needed is a bit dirt &dust . It is good to see you are putting into practice some of the things I taught you ! Ha ha . But you can't use me as a reason for posting your photos here as I didn't actually build the skips . That was Hughsie before he passed away ( John Hughes a friend of ours who died a year ago at the young age of 62 and a talented modeller ) .
Nick
I look at the outstanding modeling on this thread and find the pool of talent here to be frightening. Let's get this stuff published before I go out of business! -- Russ
James, I like that Simplex a lot. Looks like the nameplate has gone missing. THe skips are nice too!
Marc, I like what you did with the Pepsi sign ;D and the loco and the faded paint looks good... Waiting to see what you do next. Craig
The evening started out OK.....just doing a simple color mix chart to see where I wanted to go with the loco color...
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The chosen colors and panel fading went on fine....but then came the chipping.....its one of those types of things that when you think you have gone too far...you definitely have! ::) :-\ :-X......but you can still convince yourself it is OK...till you look at the images photos. :-X......I am still holding out hope that it can be saved, and some of the chipping will tone down and even almost dissapear after some of the other weathering and the caked on dust that is still to come. .....but FWIW....here is where its at.
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MR
Marc,
for you thats is heavy chipping, for me its pretty lightweight ;)
Looking at your other work " currently" it does not have your usual subtle touch , however sure you will bring it back. Would have thought sponging on/ painting in some of the top colour/undercoats on to and around some of the chipped areas may help and combined with your weathering it will soon be be back to where it should be.
IMHO, not sure about the chassis, its a great representation of sun faded red paint but somehow its looks too light tonally against the body, if that makes any sense - my view may change when you applied further "oily washes" etc.
As an aside thanks for doing all the work on the colour mixes, saves me the work and I think you have found the colour for my Road Roller - which I must finish!
It's still a little early to criticize anything. Let's see what happens after your next couple of weathering stages. At the very worst you would strip whatever is necessary and start over; hardly a catastrophe. -- Russ
OK Russ, but Marc's proved himself to be a big tough guy .... he can take the odd little comment :)
Anyway I can assure you when he sees the paint work on the "roller" he will be able to fully indulge himself with a full 3 to 4 page critique
Marc ,
As Gordon says , you have gone a bit to far with the chipping , especially around the handles on the sliding engine covers .BUT , as you say , it will tone down when you get some more weathering on, in particular the dust layers . You could also have areas of dusty oil stains on the bottom of engine covers , and judging by what some of my photos of working locos show , quite large areas at that .
Have you decided what sort of industry you loco is operating in ? Because , I'm sure I don't need to tell you ,that will influence the type and amount of weathering you should apply .
Whatever you do , don't chuck it in the thinners bucket , or you'll never finish it ,
Nick
I bet some layering/pin-washing/detailing with some gouache over the heavier areas would look good too.
-Marty
Marc what went wrong ? Not at all like your subtle pre-weathering. Chipping is not necessarily too heavy, but rather illogical. For example on the driver compartment I can see the paint wearing off the edges of the steel plate, but cannot fathom why it would chip on the sides alongside the beading. also the engine cover panels were slide opening. this would create a competely different "paint damage" compared to your chipping when the panels are moved forward.
the chipping to the perforated front of the engine cover also seems illogical. In this area I would expect lots of oil seeping out from the engine compartment thus protecting the paint, but at showing oil staining, dust etc.
hope these are valid comments.
keep having fun
Bernard
Thanks for all the input and comments guys.....very much appreciated.
Gordon:
Don't you know...I am building this for the 2013 NNGC...so I have to be heavy on the chipping...needs to appeal to the masses...antlers for it are in the works ;) ;D ;D. I went heavier, because I was worried that I would lose a good bit of it under he further weathering (I did sort of the same on the tractor loco project)....but it did get out of hand...especially in the areas Bernard mentions....the other problem that sot of caused me to be erratic on the chipping, was that I was probably looking at too many different reference images, and could not really focus in on one, and it's respective look/finish. ::)
On the rose color, I have quite a number of images where the reds went to those shades. t one point I was debating going darker, but decided against it because I was worried (and have had it happen before in the past) is that the subsequent weathering (washes, oil, grime) will darken the color, and if I start darker...it will go too dark on the final model. (I went darker on the 1/35 gas mech. frame, so it will be interesting to see if this concern was valids true once I get both done.)
Since you mention an interest in the colors.....and I assume you are looking at the bottom row on the card;
the numbers under those colors indicate the paint ratio (number of drops of each color in the mix). For the loco I used the fouth color from the left....the numbers are not completely visible, but it is 4/2/8 (4-drops of XF-13, 2-drops of XF-3, 8-drops of XF-2).....this was prayed in two light coats, leaving the coats thinner towards some of the panel bottoms, and inside corners (to give some shading and CM effect). the panel shading was done using XF-14,...again in two very thin applications, to vary the highlighting amount and location. In order not to have a completely matte surface, I added some Tamiya "Clear" (number escapes me at the moment) into the paints before thinning and shooting.
Nick:
I was thinking of some kind of clay or brickworks operation for this loco....so a good amount of dirt on her. I chose this because I want to experiment and try the mud and caked dirt technique on a loco.....though in the end I may chicken out a bit, in fear of ruining the model (once that acrylic resin mix goes on, it's almost impossible to remove).
Marty,
I will probably do the effects using Vallejo paints instead of guache, I am more comfortable with them, and by using them there are less surface tension issues to deal with (Guache always beads on me, especially over filters and oil washes), and I won't have to worry about accidentaly re-activating them during the numerous steps still to come. :)
Bernard
Thanks for the pointed and spot on critique. I agree on the radiator grill, and will fix/repaint this (easy to do mask and doe with the AB)....The side panels Iwill have to try and retouch the chips on the panel surface along both side edges by brush (you are very correct that these would not occur in this fashion during normal use)..the top and bottom edges I may leave, as these are lift-out panels and "could" chip/peel in those areas over time ::). The wear at the cab edges beyond the rim were pulled from the photos, but as I mentioned above....I was somewhat schizophrenic in my interpretation of those ;D ;D
Thanks again...keep em coming.
Marc
FWIW. ...and as part of the SBS....here is how how the chipping and scratches were done (along with the cut bristle brush shown, a small soft 0/5 and 0/3 brush was also used).
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Marc
I have the exact same issues with chipping. It is hard to know when to stop and to have too many different reference pics while doing it. I have started making quick sketches and notes first (from the photos) to help clarify what I hope to do. I am sure you will get it to a happy(er) point eventually.
The colors and fading to me are quite nice.
Marc,
thanks for the info on the paint mixes, I was sort of hoping that was the code - at the moment very frustrated as I have plenty of tamiya paint but have run out of their thinners and it appears to be in short supply in the UK ... something to do with "regulations"
Re your reply on Gnatterbox, my comment back to Russ was very much tongue in cheek .... I did realise that when he rushed to your defence that he has been spending far to much time with those thong clad friends and he saw himself very much as a knight in shining armour rushing to the aid of a damsel in distress .... may I suggest that you give up wearing the Lycra shorts!
Re red chassis, as I said I think it a great rendition of sun bleached paint .......... and from my own experience of starting with too dark a base coat more than once and by the time I had weathered/washed etc ending up with a small dark blob then you are no doubt right about its current tonal value.
Anyway I am a bit disappointed that you appear to keeping going with this, was hoping that with a severe critique you would give up and that me or Nick could just send you a SAE and box and you could just send this "failed "model to one of us ;)
Gordon, you really must get back on your medication. The myriad beautiful bikini girls notwithstanding I really wasn't defending Marc's chipping attempts; my comment meant exactly what it said. I have seen too many modelers display a work in progress at a point where it looks lousy, then go on to produce something of genuine superiority.
Sure, the chipping is overdone and creates an almost annoying appearance now. But who knows what improvement the next steps will provide? No doubt at least half of us have managed to save a hack job and got better results than had we not screwed up.
I, on the other hand, am so disgusted with my crude weathered siding attempts of a few months ago that I really do plan to start again from scratch.
But Marc is a better magician than I so let's see what happens. And let's razz him if he can't fix it!!!!
Russ
Gordon
agreed Tamiya thinners should be used whenever possible. However metholated spirits will work fine if mixed in the airbrush cup. MEK even better.
I recommend that you do not put any left over paint back in the bottle if not mixed with Tamiya X20.
have fun
Bernard
Marc
Just following along. Trying to learn something. I think it looks good. Glad to see your putting your ass out on the line for this one.
Personally I think it will come out just like you planned it.
Jerry
Thanks Bernard,
Until I can get hold of Tamiya thinners, in reasonable quantities i.e 250 ml rather than 10 ml which I can buy but works about £35/litre, I will use Iso-Propyl Alcohol (IPA) £3.50/litre
which I normally only use for cleaning airbrush after painting - it seems to work just as well but not sure about how it effects adherence of paint on to surface.
Okay...spent some time today doing touch-up:
Repainted the front grille (this was airbrushed with the previous mix of green, with some more yellow added, so as to add some panel color differentiation), and then added a few small chips with Vallejo, "German Camo Black brown".
Most all the chipping on the side panels around the handles, and at the side surface/edges was removed, by brush painting with a random mix of Vallejo acrylics. ...I also painted-out some of the chips on the front secion of cab wall, and the access panel on the top of the bonnet.
I then went in with a mix of Abt.-502 artists oils to do surface and pin washes, as well as much of the first go around of grease and oil staining (front and rear frame sections still need their first applic. of oils stains).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_Grease1.jpg&hash=3c70e93dd9e48701dede5bf0350b24b711398356)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_Grease2.jpg&hash=04b0ae8b62e8d499dce3d9acf86d8745c4cd46b0)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_Grease3.jpg&hash=96dcd59722f593e8af2089137d3da7234079e952)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Deutz%2FMR_Deutz_Grease4.jpg&hash=7a88ddf542effb1e919252c1910569ea503e00d5)
MR
Hey there, hi there, ho there! Looks like you've very neatly rescued that from yourself. I miss the little seahorsey on the one side, but have to say the reworked areas, the color variations (or modulations or whatever the __ you call them) look great ... in fact, I kinda want to see a little more variation in the reds now, but that might just be a temporary thing. Lookin' damn fine. Now you need to assemble and paint a driver, eh?
Cheers,
Dallas
Nicely done Marc... excellent save from the chipping adventure.
Paul
That's looking better , Young Marc . If you listen to us all the time you know you won't go wrong . Anything else you want help with just give us a shout ,
Nick
A nice model from a great modeller!!! Thanks for share Marc!!! AWESOME!!! The spray technique is very well explained here.
I'm just going to gloat a little and say, "I told you so". -- Russ
Great work, looks much better now. I especially like the oil/grease stains.
Yeah...much better, the chiped area's have lost the randomness they had previously, and the worn areas now make sense as to why contact would have been made there in the first place. I too like the grime staining around the engine panel handles... it looks a lot mor "MR" now, good save!
Now if only Bachmann made one of these...
Cheers,
Dan
Here's another example of someone weathering too much ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimage.org%2F9eUYi-6aae484258b0535e93fe05094c603adf.jpg&hash=456243583385539136c29af14d9ad23f9ea414cd)
I knew you would do it!
OK admit it Marc, you set me up ;)
As others have noted a great save - in fact I think the recovery process has probable made it even better, paint work now looks like its been kept reasonably clean using the "oily rag" technique - really do like the tonal variations across the green - although if I may be so bold I would still be tempted to reduced the amount of chipping around the side engine panels think the panel with front to left is great its the other one I think could worked on. The oil/grease washes on the chassis have worked a treat. Be interesting where you take this next.
As the man says "satisfactory"
Thanks guys.
The grease grime areas were done with Abt 502 oils..."Dark Wash", "Black" and "Oil & Grease". Some of the reference photos of these locos show them as being absolute grease and oil messes...and often they were wiped down with oily rags, which contributed to the look....so this was to be my "base grease stain" layer...the kind that gets rubbed and worn into the paint finish, or slowly bleeds and spreads into/over the paint. I pondered how to go about it (and not sure if I succeeded, as I have lost all ojectivity)....but, what I did is uses several sizes of slightly cut down round brushes, dabbed them randomly into a mix of the colors (no thinner involved).....dabbed some off on the tray (how much one wants to remain on the brush is personal pref./practice)....then stippled/dabbed it onto the surface of the paint...where necessary I took a clean brush to work and blend (also by stippling)the paints more. In darker areas the dabbed application was just repeated, or more black than brown was used. Hopefully this will give me a good base for the later heavier grease and grime that has coagulated dirt and grit in it, as well as for drips.
I am still pondering the next step but I think it will be to seal the whole thing with a layer of clear (which really goes against my painting philosophy/approach).....then adding some very light rust streaks, then coming in with a layer of HS, over which I can spray a dust color or two and do some other dust application with pigments and fixer...all of which I can the hopefully chip and streak away as needed due to the HS. This will then be followed by heavier dirt/mud, and the second go around of oil staining.
Gordon:
If you are going to make "helpful suggestions" please do so before I move on to the next step ;) ;D ;D ;D. ....now that you've mentioned it I do see the issue.....but it may not be possible to go in and touch it up, much due to the oil staining step already completed.....I may be able to soften/hide the issue more in the dust and dirt phase.
A big part of the problem is that I am getting tired and impatient with this project, and I just want to get it done....I have a few more that are really grating on me as well that I need to get out of the way, so that I can get back on and focus on the improvised armored railcar that I really would like to be working on...plus I have the ##$@#@! MIG challenge that I want to build something for as well....not to mention finishing the caboose for Russ's thing...and I don't even know the due date for that!
MR
Marc, just let me know if I can be of any more assistance ;D ;D ;) happy to help in any way
FWIW, here are some of the images I am using for reference and ideas on final weathering direction. (unfortunately I can't recall where on the web I pulled these from)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F2c.jpg&hash=9f783db6f92a20f9b44cd225ec6f17944877e7f1)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F2o.jpg&hash=fa58397b972b90bcc6d87cda59f3c8e420d84f73)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F2p.jpg&hash=46138cd8fa1468a5ead8bb6f182c0df251c23b04)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F2q.jpg&hash=fa9be8a3d0b67e0a3e36dbbf16a9bfba624519d0)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F116warmsen1.jpg&hash=d62fabe605a54d5de575af1376223995b54b715b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F116wietinghausen1.jpg&hash=9a4754f0081501c1517810afc158afc49696f0b4)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F263b.jpg&hash=2b5ae34c138a94ebb4e9ba07a9b2898f6203d852)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2Fbild01.jpg&hash=d1edfc39e33aebd4118a417ed7905b1dd19a5341)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2Fbild04.jpg&hash=d1ac4b0ddfcd466e9084ff3d951759150618a1f7)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2Fbild07.jpg&hash=dd63dd233049ce213ab47ad36e4101757219103a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FBRIQUETTERIEDEMARLY066-vi.jpg&hash=17bc25a91e34576700a37ec279c6d95a7ad9bde8)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FDS30-built_1954.jpg&hash=59c8769b4ffd18d9f67e5da358d5010c5627ca23)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2Fstrube10.jpg&hash=b638601c206f03ff7e84e90b62213b3992f8eef0)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2Ftalsta.jpg&hash=bc15079335f6d574606db5f84ec3c032259ceb13)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2F2876Ns2f_FFM.jpg&hash=2c73ecd859326056a96ed671f00e18c6e333fc42)
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 29, 2010, 02:42:03 AM
FWIW, here are some of the images I am using for reference and ideas on final weathering direction. (unfortunately I can't recall where on the web I pulled these from)
[Marc
Well with the fall from the bike its lucky you can remember anything ;D
Nice reference pictures. Looking forward to the final touchups (as Chuck would say) on the Engine.
Jerry
Hmmm ... guess we can see where this is heading ...
Great pics of some very nifty little critters! Most of them are so dirty and grimy it's hard to tell where the chipping ends and the filth begins, so if you're going for that look, you're safe. :)
I really like the ones that are oozing oil and grease.
Your critter looks more real.
(Did I really write that? Send me to the corner!)
Russ
Hi Marc
yes, the model has improved considerably with the subtle changes.
However an important point to note in all the photographs, which rather substantiates my basic argument, is that there is very little evidence of "paint chipping", with most of the deterioration being paint wear and the effect on colours & paint layers from soiling. This suggests that the optimum way of representing the dirt, filth and ageing is through the manipulation of colour. In this context compare the "ageing" on Nick's blue Deutz with the photographs.
the same comments are also made in regard to armour modelling where "chipping" has become madatory, but is not supported by the photgraphic evidence.
I find that the paintwork deterioration can be achieved through the manipulation of several paint layers usng MEK.
Irrespective of my observations your erzats "Duetz" is still a wonderful example of what a Bachmann stock model can become in the hands of an expert model builder.
Have fun & stay cool. above all, stay on the bike
Bernard
I was trippin about that faded red paint. That kind of clean, slight shine, yet worn surface mimicks diesel fuel. Way back when, we would sponge military artillery equipment down with straight diesel fuel prior to inspections, parades and such. When I first saw it...... OMG he's sponged it down with diesel! Nice job on this model Marc! Your a master at the art of making your subjects look real! Now...Gimme a pinch ;D
Philip
Marc ,
I can't help you with where abouts on the interweb you pulled these photos , even though I have saved them for myself previously , but I can tell you the location of some of them .
The first picture is at Ziegelwerk Erfurt , Ferna in Thuringia . This is the location for the inspiration for my 1/35th brick sheds diorama . You can just make out the blue doors of the right hand shed behind the bushes in the left of the photo . This photo has been taken from an angle that is new to me , so particular thanks for posting this one .
Pictures 2,3 and 4 are of Baustoffwerke Muhlhausen , Betonwerk Treffurt . These are particulary grubby locos and good examples of how it is not going to be possible to overweather your loco .
I know about these locations because there are additional photos of them in Andreas Christopher's Die Feldbahn Band 9 . The book is devoted to feldbahns in the former East Germany .
Can't help you with the others , apart from looking at www.Feldbahn-Schlanstedt.de for more of the Deutz OMZ117 and maybe Frank Engel's site for the last picture of the LKM Ns2f .
Picture 6 is a classic . I don't know why we all agonise over the correct sort of sleeper to use under out track . All you need is a load of old pallets just slung under whatever part of the track is sagging the most . If anyone was brave enough to model that scene they would be laughed at for building something that wouldn't happen in real life . Mmmm, that has just given me an idea for the subject of a competition on another forum . Thanks .
Nick
Nick,
Thanks for all the info, Much appreciated. I knew the one was the operation you based your shed on, I have 5 or 6 images of this operation....didn't want to post them and take away with your thread/work....I can dig them out of my BU-HD if you want....in the meantime here is one more that I had on my PC that shows the shed (also has another great example of trackwork ;D).
Quote from: Malachi Constant on June 29, 2010, 07:25:54 AM
Hmmm ... guess we can see where this is heading ...
;D ;D ;D
Great photos and that last one is perfect diorama fodder (as Nick knows). It would be worth doing something like this just to make tracks like those.
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 30, 2010, 01:03:13 AM
Nick,
Thanks for all the info, Much appreciated. I knew the one was the operation you based your shed on, I have 5 or 6 images of this operation....didn't want to post them and take away with your thread/work....I can dig them out of my BU-HD if you want....in the meantime here is one more that I had on my PC that shows the shed (also has another great example of trackwork ;D).
Marc ,
Thanks for the extra photo , shame it is not that clear . I would more than welcome any additional photos you have , either here or over on my own thread . This is one subject you can't have too many photos .
What this photo does show is that I haven't made the brickwork on the shed with the chimney decrepid enough . Oh well , I'll just have to make the next building more run down .
Thanks again ,
Nick
Nick,
here are two more pics of the operation.
I think these are of it as well.
These could be...but am not sure.
Lastly...here's a pic of some more wild trackwork, for you to model. ;D
QuoteLastly...here's a pic of some more wild trackwork, for you to model.
You call that wild? They're just a bunch of [mumble] amateurs.
Now THAT is TRACK! -- Russ
Needed to test/experiment some techniques for dust, oil and grime using the new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix, for a currrent project, so I hauled out this old build to try them on. (Also used the new Dark Steel and Med. Rust pigments for the seat and metalic areas at the top of the cab walls, as well as some dilluted pin washes of the Africa Dust wash on the bonnet and for streaking.)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg198.imageshack.us%2Fimg198%2F303%2Fdscn0394reduced.jpg&hash=2b2829f6e80714c592a11595236e6d0a23362fbf)
M
Well worked but not decrepit. Nice.
That is looking really good!
B'stard . Now I'm going to have to chuck my cabless Deutz into a bucket of paint stripper and start again as it looks very second rate compared to yours . Damn and blast . As if I haven't got enough to do .
By the way , yours looks brilliant . And please don't say that you aren't happy with what you have done because I'll be very irritated .
Nick
Marc -
How about some details on the "new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix"?
What is it, where do I get it, and how did you use it? Especially the worn-but shiny metal accents on the seat and cab edges.
Carlo
Quote from: Carlo on October 21, 2011, 10:27:09 AM
How about some details on the "new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix"?
What is it, where do I get it, and how did you use it? Especially the worn-but shiny metal accents on the seat and cab edges.
... full ack ...
I'll agree with Nick.
Based on what you have achieved with these materials he'll be busy coming winter evenings, as his machines look like toys now ;D ;D
Jacq
I'm very disappointed, Marc. You can do much better .... -- ssuR
Nice Marc,
The buffed lustre on the old seat and cab edges are the little highlights that really add some realistic life to this thing, at least to my eyes. I also appreciate the thoughful traffic wear, as on the cab floor. Just needs DCC sound and a gurgling, coughing engine effect to finish it off ;)
Subtle. Love it.
Cheers,
Dan
Brilliant weathering, spot on!
Well done Marc. I'm impressed with the subtle differences between the dark chips on the hood and the oil/grease stains below the side of the hood. The colors are very similar in hue and value, and yet it's obvious that they're different results from different environmental conditions. That's not easy to pull off...
Thanks guys. That's all very kind of you. There are things, as it stands so far, that I am happy with, and a good number of things I am not happy with. The worst 2 offenders for me, is that I just didn't know when to stop chipping, and thus overdid it; the other is the amont and size of grease stains on the vertical side panels. Then there are some other issues, such as mot enough panel shading and variation, and not the best rain/dirt streaking on the vert surfaces (this last item though can still be adressed). I am quite happy with the red color and the sun fading/spotting on it, and I am happy with the dirt in the cab, as well as the oily dirt ontop of the running board/surface next to the engine compartment. So its not a complete basket case yet (though still a chance to be when I get around to doing the rest someday)...and if I stick it in a really busy dio, maybe nobody will notice or care. :D
Nick...I think you are talking nutters and must have falln from your roof again. I used your and Francks Deutz as inspiration.
M
Quote from: Carlo on October 21, 2011, 10:27:09 AM
Marc -
How about some details on the "new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix"?
What is it, where do I get it, and how did you use it? Especially the worn-but shiny metal accents on the seat and cab edges.
Carlo
Carlo,
I can't completly divulge the grease mix that I did, as it is something I am doing for a project that when done will have a full SBS about it. I can say it is nothing completely new, and is adapted from Chucks technique. I do utilize the new AK "engine grime" color, and some oil paints from Abt-502.
The new AK "dark steel" pigment that I used for the seats and highlighting some wear areas, is interesting and much better than I thought it would be. At first I figured it would be hovhum like some of the steel/metal pigments already on the market....which tend to give the shine and lightness of graphite. I was quite surprised to find that this had, IMO, a much darker richer coloration, and the pigment seems to be far finer ground than any metalics I have seen before. Unlike other metalic pigments which have a slightly sparkly/flecked/mottled look in the container, this stuff is dead matte charcol colored...could easily be confused with aregular pigment....once applied (I used an aetists stump and a brush) it begins to get a dark dull lustre that can then pe rubbed out with a soft cloth or Q-tip...to give it a richer sheen and depth. Because of what seems to be a much finer and more condentrated pigment, one seems to get a much smoother, even and consistent surface finish, as compared to graphite or other pigments I have used.
AK products are available in the US directly from the distributors website "AK Interactive USA". In Europenthey are available directly from the shop/mfr in Spain. Some online or brick and mortar hobby shops that are military modeling oriented will also likely carry some or all of their line....but I would just buy direct from AK. Iain that runs the US arm is a great guy, and they ship very fast.
You could easily fix all the "problems" Marc with a nice big green tarp over the whole thing ;D
I still reckon you're being a bit hard on yourself with the finishes here. Looking back a the initial heavy chipping, which was corrected back halfway through the thread, I think this current amount of chipped surface is still subtle enough, and given that the chips are placed in logical wear points, still presents as a very plausable image. The dirt and grease markings around the panel handles looks like well worn in staining to me. Bit hard to tell from that latest photo, but maybe those panel handles need a bit of the buffing like along the cab edges, but then again, how often would have they actually had to use these handles? May have just been dirt catchers, rather than wear points.
Panel modulation paint effects is still one of those finishes that I have mixed feelings about, and I think it comes down to how the model is photographed. If using natural outdoor lighting, the panels should take on their own "natural modulation" based on how the light spills over the model. However,if shooting photo's strictly indoors, I see where these paint modulation effects come into play a bit more, in creating some false lighting reflections. Its not a painting effect seen in many model railway settings, but is certainly more frequently used in the military circles. Its one of those finishes which (and this is just my view), is almost one of those "character" looks in that field of modelling. Maybe questionable if it's a realistic effect, but its sort of the "standard" of how paint effects are utilised (where as a lot of railways stuff can be a bit "just add some rust powder")...if that makes sense.
Of course, if you are still unhappy with the finish after all that, I am happy to have a go at changing scales to accomodate that loco over here ;)
Dan
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 21, 2011, 09:42:04 PM
Thanks guys. That's all very kind of you. There are things, as it stands so far, that I am happy with, and a good number of things I am not happy with. The worst 2 offenders for me, is that I just didn't know when to stop chipping, and thus overdid it; the other is the amont and size of grease stains on the vertical side panels. Then there are some other issues, such as mot enough panel shading and variation, and not the best rain/dirt streaking on the vert surfaces (this last item though can still be adressed). I am quite happy with the red color and the sun fading/spotting on it, and I am happy with the dirt in the cab, as well as the oily dirt ontop of the running board/surface next to the engine compartment. So its not a complete basket case yet (though still a chance to be when I get around to doing the rest someday)...and if I stick it in a really busy dio, maybe nobody will notice or care. :D
Nick...I think you are talking nutters and must have falln from your roof again. I used your and Francks Deutz as inspiration.
M
You think I'm talking nutters ? I beg to differ . I figure my Deutz can only be used as an example of how not to do it ( actually , I'm still pleased with how it came out but like yours there is room for improvement) . Franck's was a Gmeinder , by the way . And he sold it to Bernard Junk , curse him!
I can see how you think you over did the chipping , especially on the bonnet ( "hood" , to the non English speakers in our midst ) but it still looks all plausible . Looking at some of the photos in my Die Feldbahn books your Deutz is a model of restraint as there are some seriously weathered locos in them with more oil floating around on them than the Gulf of Mexico .
If the worst comes to the worst you could always blitz it with a couple of squirts from a Floquil Instant Weathering spray can .
Funnily enough , I have got just the diorama that it would " disappear" into where no one will see it . Perfick ! Don't listen to our Aussie friend , he is just not geared up to receiving it at this time and it would be a waste of postage .
I suggest you put it away again and come back to it another day ,
Nick
Hey Nick,
Wasn't there some talk of you maybe heading down this way in the future? Maybe Marc could post it over to you first, hide it in amongst your weeds and brick piles for a little while, and then stick it in a box for the trip. The Queen's here in town at the minute...I'm sure she'd love to catch up ;D
Dan
Marc, if you think you failed at any aspect of finishing that model you're NUTS! I've seen actual locomotives that don't look as real. -- Russ
Very nice indeed. That is really a realistic looking engine. What's the chances we see this one finished. It would be a shame to just leave it as is.
Jerry
Quote from: finescalerr on October 22, 2011, 12:10:51 PM
Marc, if you think you failed at any aspect of finishing that model you're NUTS! I've seen actual locomotives that don't look as real. -- Russ
Yah... what Russ said... I think it looks great.
Paul
Quote from: danpickard on October 22, 2011, 01:55:47 AM
Hey Nick,
Wasn't there some talk of you maybe heading down this way in the future? Maybe Marc could post it over to you first, hide it in amongst your weeds and brick piles for a little while, and then stick it in a box for the trip. The Queen's here in town at the minute...I'm sure she'd love to catch up ;D
Dan
Dan ,
I am hoping to try and make it to the Narrow Gauge Convention in Melbourne in 2013 ( finances permitting ) so maybe when Marc sends it to me I can bring it on tour , sort of like a Royal Visit , but without all the BS .
Say HI to Betty for me and tell her to pop around for a cuppa tea when she gets back .
Nick
Um, it appears the loco has a conflict of interest (that is if it gets completed, and/or avoids the rubbish bin) the NNGC is here in Pasadena in 2013....and it may wish to attend.
I figure if I finish every started/incomplete model in my drawers by then, I might have a couple of contest entries :P ;D.
Thanks for all the kind words about the build,....was there a sale on rose colored glasses somewhere. ;) ;D
M
Fantastic job.... :o! It doesen´t get any better than this. This should be one heck of a diorama - hope I don´t have to wait until 2013 to see it finished. By the way where is the small caboose (bobber) going?
Anders
Marc, I would be very happy with these results, especially the faded red paint. The chipping does not look overdone to me, but I am no locomotive expert.
Let's face it Marc is his own worst enemy. And a good job too, how else would we all have a bar set to climb?
Marc the Loco looks great!!!! leave it alone for Christ's Sake!
Put it on a diorama and be done with it.
Without Prejudice Michael
Sorry Marc, it looks cr*p, I was just lying through my teeth when I dished out the attaboy earlier.
Best put it in the bin then with an Aussie postcode marked on the side of it ;)
It will be incentive then for Nick to come down and pick it up in a few years.
By the way Nick, I ran in to Liz and passed on your message. She said "who the f*%$ is Nick?" ;D
Dan
Quote from: danpickard on October 23, 2011, 10:37:18 PM
By the way Nick, I ran in to Liz and passed on your message. She said "who the f*%$ is Nick?" ;D
Dan
She's a one , is old Lizzy , always winding people up . She only said that to you to make you feel better , 'cos I'm her friend and you're not .
Nick
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 23, 2011, 01:48:14 AM
Um, it appears the loco has a conflict of interest (that is if it gets completed, and/or avoids the rubbish bin) the NNGC is here in Pasadena in 2013....and it may wish to attend.
I figure if I finish every started/incomplete model in my drawers by then, I might have a couple of contest entries :P ;D.
Thanks for all the kind words about the build,....was there a sale on rose colored glasses somewhere. ;) ;D
M
Marc , you just don't get it . One of your " not so wonderful " or "just an experiment" models are miles better than most peoples best effort , and , as I've said before , it would be criminal if you binned any of your models .
It doesn't matter if they are not finished or not good enough for YOU they are of interest to other people ,and should be kept , even if they are just used examples of how your modelling has developed over the years .
Just put them in a box and give them to Uncle Russ next time he sees you . Then he can pass them off as his own work .
You could even auction them off and give the money to charity.
Just don't bin anything ,
Nick
QuoteBy the way where is the small caboose (bobber) going?
We ( Alan,Nick and I ) have been discussing the use of cabooses. If this one is available, I don't have to make one myself to test it out. ;D ;D
Jacq
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 21, 2011, 03:39:18 AM
Needed to test/experiment some techniques for dust, oil and grime using the new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix, for a currrent project, so I hauled out this old build to try them on. (Also used the new Dark Steel and Med. Rust pigments for the seat and metalic areas at the top of the cab walls, as well as some dilluted pin washes of the Africa Dust wash on the bonnet and for streaking.)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg198.imageshack.us%2Fimg198%2F303%2Fdscn0394reduced.jpg&hash=2b2829f6e80714c592a11595236e6d0a23362fbf)
Mv
Hi Marc,
The locomotive on a good diorama photographed is determined no longer to be distinguished from a genuine.
I myself just construct a BBA Akkulok 1:22.5 scale, can I get you to win, to age the finished locomotive that?
Just kidding but I probably need a lot Work to practice I can do that.
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 21, 2011, 10:04:10 PM
Quote from: Carlo on October 21, 2011, 10:27:09 AM
Marc -
How about some details on the "new AK pigments and the the Engine Grease mix"?
What is it, where do I get it, and how did you use it? Especially the worn-but shiny metal accents on the seat and cab edges.
Carlo
Carlo,
I can't completly divulge the grease mix that I did, as it is something I am doing for a project that when done will have a full SBS about it. I can say it is nothing completely new, and is adapted from Chucks technique. I do utilize the new AK "engine grime" color, and some oil paints from Abt-502.
The new AK "dark steel" pigment that I used for the seats and highlighting some wear areas, is interesting and much better than I thought it would be. At first I figured it would be hovhum like some of the steel/metal pigments already on the market....which tend to give the shine and lightness of graphite. I was quite surprised to find that this had, IMO, a much darker richer coloration, and the pigment seems to be far finer ground than any metalics I have seen before. Unlike other metalic pigments which have a slightly sparkly/flecked/mottled look in the container, this stuff is dead matte charcol colored...could easily be confused with aregular pigment....once applied (I used an aetists stump and a brush) it begins to get a dark dull lustre that can then pe rubbed out with a soft cloth or Q-tip...to give it a richer sheen and depth. Because of what seems to be a much finer and more condentrated pigment, one seems to get a much smoother, even and consistent surface finish, as compared to graphite or other pigments I have used.
AK products are available in the US directly from the distributors website "AK Interactive USA". In Europenthey are available directly from the shop/mfr in Spain. Some online or brick and mortar hobby shops that are military modeling oriented will also likely carry some or all of their line....but I would just buy direct from AK. Iain that runs the US arm is a great guy, and they ship very fast.
Marc,
Nice job, and awesome as usual!
the shiny rusted metal with wear effect on the seat and cab edges is perfect...
Look at this :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages43.fotki.com%2Fv1321%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F10174129%2FHEIM2-vi.jpg&hash=3c80d4b0799f4010325f2838717925e7e498bed5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages36.fotki.com%2Fv1156%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F10174129%2FHEIM3-vi.jpg&hash=279dfbd29fbc84ca1021730b228273d916a937e5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv249%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F10174129%2FHEIM4-vi.jpg&hash=89f9e98cc05a15fd0318a4421b76ee13a8187630)
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on October 29, 2011, 03:47:42 AM
Look at this :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages43.fotki.com%2Fv1321%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F10174129%2FHEIM2-vi.jpg&hash=3c80d4b0799f4010325f2838717925e7e498bed5)
Franck,
is this a Lilliput Diesel locomotive, manufactured by Frères Heim ... ? Where is it located?
Regards
Hi Gerald,
Yes, it's a little HEIM gas loco, at the Chimot brickworks (50cm gauge), at Marly, near Valenciennes, north France ;)
http://www.ingr.co.uk/chimot.html
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ingr.co.uk%2Fimages%2Fchimot_web008.jpg&hash=f0edb84913cb0cd6683753efa909f53a260d6932)
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on October 29, 2011, 05:26:25 AM
Yes, it's a little HEIM gas loco, at the Chimot brickworks (50cm gauge), at Marly, near Valenciennes, north France ;)
... ah! ... merci ... ;D
Frank,
will you visit the Railexpo in Villebon at the end of November ? If so, drop in and join Nick and me having a beer.
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on October 29, 2011, 07:33:39 AM
Frank,
will you visit the Railexpo in Villebon at the end of November ? If so, drop in and join Nick and me having a beer.
Jacq
Jacq ,
You are going to have to bring your own beer , as usual , because the French stuff isn't up to much . Maybe we should be cracking open a nice bottle of wine instead .
Franck ,
Thanks for posting the extra photos of that little HEIM loco , I have only got the last photo from Steve Thomason's website . It only goes to show that Marc has not weathered his " Deutz" anywhere near enough !
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on October 29, 2011, 11:54:36 AM
Franck ,
Thanks for posting the extra photos of that little HEIM loco , I have only got the last photo from Steve Thomason's website ...
Nick, just in case you are interested ... and have a registration at www.feldbahn.forumieren.de (former: kipplore.de) ... there is a report (http://feldbahn.forumieren.com/t4025-heim-loks-in-tarn?highlight=heim) about Heim locomotives at Tarn with photos like this (http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww322/deutzl/Heim2.jpg) ...
Regards
Quote from: jacq01 on October 29, 2011, 07:33:39 AM
Frank,
will you visit the Railexpo in Villebon at the end of November ? If so, drop in and join Nick and me having a beer.
Jacq
Jacq ,
I don't think so, I have family obligations this week end, sorry, and thanks for the beer ;)
Franck
Coming shortly.....Had to read this thread first so I could remember what I did, and where I was headed.
And you wondered why I wrote "Hmmm" in the other thread. You see, both renderings are superb and one eventually tires of employing the same adjectives, doesn't one? When I see it in person I might say, "Ah." But don't quote me. -- Russ
Ah. Mmm.
So here are the materials we will be using to finish the dirt and oil on this.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/941193_3029602355054_1858145995_n.jpg)
AK:
Engine Grime
Engine Oil
FuelStains
Dark Wash for Green Vehicles (this is also being used for the oil stains...not as a wash for the loco)
Shadows Grey For Ships (Oil color in tube)
MIG:
Endgine Grease (Oil color in Tube)
Dark Industrial Earth (Oil color in tube)
Pigment Fixer
5 colors of grey/tan/brown pigments from (Mig, Bragdon, AGAMA, AK)
Black-Grey pigment is a mix of pigments, .0024 sifted soil, and some dried crushed parsley sards and some really short hemp trimmings. (the last two items are included sparingly to represent the occasional organic detritus that gets stuck in the areas of coagulated oils and grease.)
Also used is Odorless Turpentine from AK or Abt-502.
OK,
I finally got all the bits you suggested together !
Now trying to get ahead of you I have mixed all the AK paints together in one pot
All the Mig oils in another
And finally in the 3rd pot I mixed all the pigments ....... Did not bother about ratios or anything like that
Then in a slightly wild and random, but controlled way, I brushed the first 2 mixtures over the loco and then using my wife's best sugar sifter poured the pigment powders, premixed, over the still wet paint & oils.
Just waiting for it to dry out and will then post pic ;D
Would you suggest doing it in a different order ? ;)
Edit:
Just realised I forgot the Parsley leaves and the hemp ....... Could I just sort of glue them on now?
Turpentine, how many times do I have to tell you...Turpentine! The Parsley can be used as a topper, but the hemp is better mixed in....which leads to a point you forgot, you need to half-bake it in the oven at a med temp till done.
I am glad you followed my instructions so concisely.
Marc
(stop nagging....an sbs is forthcoming) :)
Hold on a minute, no where did you mention baking it,
Your like the Crime Writers who introduce the murderer on the last page and you then go back thro' the previous 300 odd pages to find this character has never even been mentioned!
Anyway it's in the oven now and I am off to work so will check it tonight .
Edit:
Ran out of turps , had some white spirit that I used to clean my creosote brushes so used that to glaze the top before poping it the oven ........ Going to guess I should let it cool before the dry brushing ?
The whole process is half-baked....so the baking was implied and foreshadowed all along. I can't help it if you can't read between the lines.
Might post this new technique over in some of the other forums just to see if someone else will give it a go as the latest all purpose weathering process. Is it low temp in the oven, or put it in at full whack? :)
Cheers,
Dan
Just hot enough that it takes a second or so after you grab the oven rack, to realize you have just fused your skin to the metal.
Right, so full whack it is ;D
Cheers,
Dan
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 22, 2013, 02:19:50 AM
The whole process is half-baked....so the baking was implied and foreshadowed all along. I can't help it if you can't read between the lines.
Fuggin' hilarious! ;D ;D ;D
One more shelf queen we'll call done. Still some a couple of last finishing drops of shiny grease...and see if I can fix those two fingerprints :o ::).....should be done just in time for Thursday. :)
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1151046_3313081441854_1995205157_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1185958_3313081361852_1487828126_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1239486_3313081401853_1405452359_n.jpg)
Gott in Himmel! Are you trying to win every contest at the show? -- Russ
Ha....all three locos are in the same category...I'm a "one-note" kinda guy. Only the two cabeese are in different ones. :)
Marc, this is mind blowing. Very well done. I've seen some locos in the mid 80ies that looked exactly that way. I don't see space for improvement.
There's only one thing, that came to my mind, and I don't want to call it "missing": Maybe you could add some curved stains of a swinging key ring or something. The drivers often hooked them or their jackets or helmets with some wire to the cabin walls.
Volker
Thanks Volker. Appreciate the kind words.
I can no longer "see the forest for the trees" on this one, but I figured I better get it done as part of my last hurrah. :)
Nice detail/observation of the helmet or keys scraping. Probably too late to add now...but where did this usually/typically occur?
Usually inside the cabin, for example at the rear wall for larger items or above the control panels for the key ring. They just had a s-bent wire in a not used screw hole or used a longer screw as hook.
Volker
Thanks!
Quote from: Hydrostat on August 26, 2013, 02:16:26 AM
Usually inside the cabin, for example at the rear wall for larger items or above the control panels for the key ring. They just had a s-bent wire in a not used screw hole or used a longer screw as hook.
Volker
Volker , please don't make helpful suggestions like this when referring to one of Marc's " finished" pieces , because it usually ends up with him chucking said model into the paint stripper bucket and him starting all over again . And , we , as a collective Forum , could not cope with the added stress .
Thanks , Old Bean !
Nick
Beautiful little loco! Looks absolutely real.
Should be the best weathered critters there.
Get it in before Friday, that's the only day I will be present, and I'd love to see it (them).
Friday is the only day I could be in Pasadena, too. If anybody reading this wants to hang out, please let me know. I could arrive in the afternoon and stay late. -- Russ
I plan to go on Weds, Thurs, & Friday, in the evenings. I want to see if there are good and interesting bits in the vendor room, and try to see the following clinics:
Advanced Modeling Techniques
Paint & Weathering Stone and Concrete
Scratch Building & Weathering Structures
Dirt to Dust & Oil to Rust
Narrow Gauge Cuban Sugar Railroads
Columbia River Jetty Construction Railroads
I Didn't think you 2 guys ??? I wont say no names were ever going to attend a Narrow Gauge Conv.?? But now that its being held in your backyard......your singing a different TUNE now.
Watching and waiting, to see how it all pans out.
I would expect you to have a couple of votes, but have seen this go all weird in the past.
Have a good NNGC, and don't upset too many people :-X ;D
Cheers,
Dan
Craig, was always planning on attending THIS one.....actually wanted to have more models done. The two unnamed were even at one point thinking of arranging a get together BBQ at my place for some of the vistors...but due to unfortunate circumstances on my end, that did not work out.
I figure it is 10 mins from the house, and being put on by the guys that ownd the LHS, it would be sillynd rude for me not to go and see what's up and support the guys........and one never knows what one can learn...or the odd thing of use/interest one might find at the vendors tables:
Dan, Not looking for anything re. the voting....just doing it for the fun of it, because its so close and easy. :)
Well, this particular no name still has no desire to attend the convention. Ain't gonna buy a ticket. But I could find a spot in the lobby on Friday night if and only if friends want to hang out. Or, if any of you prefers, I could host a little get together at my home, about an hour from Pasadena (in midday traffic). I would provide dinner. -- Russ
Well, I shall be there if you decide you areup to braving the inbound traffic...or for a later drink.
Have a good time. You show a good attitude to the contests.
In Melbourne there were some exquisite diesel and steam 1:35 critters by Bernard, but the public didn't notice the fantastic details on them.
Pity we didn't go deeper into details for my visit. Too many uncertainties my side to be able to give a solid confirmation.
Also the reluctance of said unnamed to go to the NGC and my medical condition made me decide not to go.
I don't know or Marc will be at the KMK in Mol in September. I will attend as it is only 60 km from my place.
Have a good time coming weekend
Jacq
Thanks jacq. Doesn't look like I will be able to make KMK...really wanted to go, but it is too crazy with work and work travel right now. Have a great time there.....fantastic show and great bunch of guys. It does look like I will be going to do a demo(s) at EME in Heiden again next spring....think it is sometime in March or April....Iin case you are around Cologne during that time :) .
Marc,
Heiden and cologne are some 1,5 hrs drive from my place.
I will try to visit Heiden next year.
Jacq
Quote from: marc_reusser on August 27, 2013, 01:56:54 AM
Thanks jacq. Doesn't look like I will be able to make KMK...really wanted to go, but it is too crazy with work and work travel right now. Have a great time there.....fantastic show and great bunch of guys. It does look like I will be going to do a demo(s) at EME in Heiden again next spring....think it is sometime in March or April....Iin case you are around Cologne during that time :) .
Mmmm , I think I might put that one in my diary , I fancy doing a bit of heckling . I haven't had a good heckle in ages ,
Nick
Jacq, That is a long drive for you.
Nick....empty threats...not worried. :) :P.....and the KMK guys do a perfectly good job at it. ;D
Marc,
if you come to Heiden again next year, please bring your exquisite critter(s).
Even though it might not be a Railroad orientated show I am certain the audience there will notice it and value the work.
I will be there again and this time hopefully know in advance that you are there and be able to say hi.
For me Heiden is over an hour's drive if driving normally.
Probably I will make it in 45 minutes ..... I just love the German Autobahn ;D ;D
Have fun in Pasedena.
Cheers,
Marc B
QuoteJacq, That is a long drive for you.
Not really , visite Marcel last weekend to discuss the project.
1400 km. I am used to drive long distances.
Marc,
I just received the "mud" issue of the "Weathering Magazine". I don't want to go into too much detail here about the magazine in general, but I was very upset to see the terrible production / print quality of your article in particular. The photos don't do any justice to the excellent work you have shared here. I am glad I was able to follow your posts here, with much better images. Lets hope that the print quality improves.
Christian
Seeing as someone else has mentioned it!! - I'll now be brave enough to agree. I too thought it was a stand out disappointment of an article (image-wise): Just didn't serve you or the piece very well at all Marc', I'm hoping there's a logical reason for its sub-standard appearance.
And re' the magazine itself ................ I thought it the weakest issue by far. Perhaps because the subject failed to engage me - or the examples themselves? - But it's not an issue I'll be returning to often, I'll be bound.
I have held back from renewing my subscription to this magazine and by the sound of it I don't think I'll bother until I see how the next issue turns out .
Nick
Don't renew your subscription to mine, either, because a.) no subscriptions allowed and b.) ain't gonna be but half a book next year.
I know. I'm heading for the corner.
Russ
Well, I don't know what to say. I have yet to see the print version (quickly leafed through the digital one...but didn't pay my article any attention). The same images/type I post often here (except for when shoot with tablet for here of FB), or submit to other mags/publishers, are the ones I sent them. So I can't speak to the subject.
Will be curious to see it, and how the images for the coming mag turn out. If as you say there is a quality problem, I will be curious on the upcoming mag, to see how it compares across the board to Russ's mag, and Berthold Tacke's upcoming diorama modeling book, as they all have photos shot the same way, of the same sbs/build (albeit different portions/aspects of the build....yet there will still be several images that overlap)
Marc ,
Can you give us a bit more information about the Berthold Tacke book you mention ? I assume it will be written in German ?
Nick
Nick,
Yes, it will be in German, and likely more locally marketed. I don't know much about it, but it is a book about biding dioramas and some modeling techniques for dioramas. It will have dios by some really outstanding modelers, will cover a variety of subjects and scales, and have a how to SBS section...as well as I believe some reference images for the SBS section.
I also know, that Gordon has an SBS in it. :)
If/when I get any additional info, I will let you know.
How about a English translation edition, Marc ?
MPH
My German is not so good
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on September 01, 2013, 10:04:46 PM
How about a English translation edition, Marc ?
MPH
My German is not so good
Not that I am aware of. Think it is strictly for the European (and primarily German/Swiss/Austrian) market.
No Why don't you publish the book in English for the states?
Sprechen sie deutsche? ::)
MPH
I go where asked/invited :). Yep, ich sprechen das Deutsch..but that is not necessary, the articles are written in English, and they translate to whatever they need.
US based modeling mags are in pathetically short supply...and if you want to try and get published in a decent/higher quality content one I think you are at one "Scale Model Addict" (not counting Russ' because he is stopping).