Hello all,
I've been signed onto the forum here for a little while, but haven't posted - 'till now. I have a deep respect for the work being done by all of you and am hoping that you will be able to impart some of your ideas and wisdom as I move along my project.
The project itself was begun some time ago - it's a current work in progress - that I'll try to get you all up to speed with right now. Russ, I'm am posting on this forum because it does have a rail car involved....but feel free to move the thread to a different forum if you'd like. Sorry in advance for the long opening post............
This is the beginning of a larger, and what I hope to be a thought provoking scene. Yes, I know big words - but the subject itself is difficult and must be addressed with due reverence.
Ok..enough said for now - let's build. The kit of the G10 German Covered Wagon comes by way of Libor, at L.Z. Models.
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The G10 kit contains 180 resin parts and 180 photo etched pieces, along with a decal sheet, wire, and plastic strip. The instructions are provided in PDF format on a CD which provides you with 52 pages of construction and reference photographs. Construction begins with the underside support beams and flooring....
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Time to add the sliders for the bearing housings, spring hangers and wheels...........
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Now the fun really begins....the brake system. To begin, many of the bracket parts are double thickness photo etch - these were soldered together for strength - styrene rod is used for the pins..........
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The brake arms and hangers were then mounted.............
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It's pretty amazing how much stuff is on the bottom of these cars....
...I began by adding the air tank and brake cylinder, the linkage is simply brass wire....
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the brake operating arms and rods are made using styrene rod, with the connection points flattened and notched. (the should have holes and pins..but I cheated!).
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More stuff...air lines, valves, and brackets.....
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And that pretty much takes care of the underside of the car.
Ok..time to work on the topside. Before I get started with the post, I gotta mention how NICE this kit is to build. Yes, it can be complicated at times - the casting of the parts and the fit is spectacular.
The end pieces, laid out and ready to go. If you look closely you can see that there are channels on the end section for the sides to fit into - nice.
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So, now the storyline begins to reveal itself. I decided to cut windows (with bars) into the side panels....
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At this point I have windows cut into a panel that fits onto either side of the car. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that these panels have a specific top and bottom orientation so one of the panels is cut in error. My fix is simple. Rather than re-installing the planking and cutting a new window in the proper location, I decide to simply put a "patch" over the hole simulating a quick train yard repair. You will notice this as the work continues in the upcoming photos.
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Detail strips...
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Next up are the side doors. The doors are built/detailed and then attached to the car and can be shown in either the open or closed position. Detailing of the doors is straight forward, just pay attention to the small location bumps/marks on the part for the proper placement positions of the pieces....
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The kit provides that the lower door railing be constructed from photo etched parts. I ran into difficulty here when trying to assemble the parts. The assembly itself is complex, and instruction photos are somewhat vague which caused me some confusion as to where certain bends were to be made - and how parts connected. Unfortunately the required trial and error caused me to damage some of the etched parts.
Rather than press forward with the etch, I chose to build the door railing from plastic strip - using the photo etched parts as a guide....
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Moving right along.....next I tackled the roof. I wanted the roof exterior to have a pronounced tar-papered texture to it, so I covered the sections using Bare Metal Foil - purposefully leaving in small wrinkles.
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The roof comes in 4 sections that are glued together end to end to make up the length of the car. The joins were covered (inside and out) using plastic strip - small rivets were added using a prototype prototype punch and die set given to me for testing by the folks at The Small Shop. (http://www.thesmallshop.com/) It's working great - Hope to see it in production soon!
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The finishing details are added - steps, couplers, fittings...etc. and the car is completed.
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Ok guys...here we go. Painting.
First, a base coating of Grey Primer - just to seal it up and get the process started.
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Next, I gave the car an additional "primer" of flat black. This is actually an important step in the overall finish of this car for a couple of reasons: First, I want to increase the depth of the shadows, especially between the planking and in the interior, and Second, for the overall exterior finish I am going to depend upon a certain level of the Black to show through the color. I'll explain later when I get to that point.
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Working my way from the bottom up, I first added colors to the underside of the car, wheels and trucks. I probably got a little fancier here than I really needed to be. I first painted the metal areas using Model Master Metallizers (Burnt Metal. Aluminum & Magnesium) and then sealed with a light layer of Future. Over this I applied a layer of hairspray and then Tamiya's Nato Brown color. Once the brown had dried I removed patches of the brown color to reveal the steel colors underneath.
In retrospect all of the fancy hairspray layers proved to be unnecessary as they were eventually covered by subsequent weathering....
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Next, the base color(s). Since this was a rail car I figured why not use "real" railroad colors. So I went over to my Local Train Store and picked up a few bottle of POLLY Scale colors. Ok...remember how I painted a black undercoating? Well, here is when it comes into play. IF (big IF) I have developed a technique or "style" over the past years I think that can be traced to how I paint my base color(s) layer. In this case, I want a worn, somewhat transparent finish. I also try NOT to create a homogenous, or uniformed base color. I know, from experience, that the effects of the subsequent weathering will "play off" of be dependent upon the base colors. So, if I can make the base layers somewhat interesting - then I am confident that the later weathering will only enhance the visual interest.
Make sense? Probably not...but! Here's what I did.....
Over the Black I spayed an Inconsistent layer of POLLY Scale ATSF Red. Notice how the Black color still shows through the red color?
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Next, in order to enhance the planks and further increase the visual interest of the base layer I lightly sprayed UN-even applications of POLLY Scale Freight Car Red (a brownish color) using cardstock as a quick mask along the planks...
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I continued the process of adding light color layers - always changing my color mix slightly with each application. My goal is to achieve a foundation that is visually interesting - areas of varying colors and tones.
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Well, now it's getting fun....weathering. Or as I like to think of it, giving the model some personality.
Chips and Paint Peels. I went back to "old school" on this step. No tricky hairspray, scrubbing or masking....just some paints and a fine brush. Although I work quickly, this step takes a few evenings.
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It's time to bring some depth to the finish, and for this I turn to artists oils. To the upper areas of the car (planking) I want to continue with the theme of enhancing the tonal interest. As you can see from this photo I chose a number of colors for this stage of the process. The oils are first placed upon a small of cardboard in order to leach out the oils - this helps quicken drying times and insures that the colors dry to a matte finish.
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Grime and dirt staining were added to the lower edges of the car, again using oils. The primary colors for this stage were 502 Abteilung Light Mud, Starship Filth, and Shadow Brown. In all cases using oils it is a process of building effects - layer by layer.
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Finally, the wheels and trucks received a "special" treatment of oils and pigments. Here, rather than apply each separately - or in succession - I apply the oils and pigments in one step. First, I dab oil colors onto the surface (wheel) - generally a mix of Shadow Brown and Dark Rust - and then using a a larger, soft brush I stipple the pigment colors (Rail Rust, Track Brown, Standard Rust) directly onto the wet paints. The pigments "stain" the oils and produce some nice nuanced effects. Once the oils have dried the application is permanent.
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And here is where we stand at the moment. The car is about as done I a want it to be at this stage. I do the final weathering once it's placed upon the base.
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Well, it's time to begin working on the scene itself.
The genesis of this idea took hold while visiting the United States Holocaust Museum in Washington D.C. This was my second visit to the museum, but the first time that I had taken advantage of the full tour. My tour began by being personally shown some of the museum artifacts by a Holocaust Survivor, his narrative intertwined with the descriptions of the museum pieces. His Story – Their Story; had a profound impact.
In the museum and among the symbols of the associated with the Holocaust, the German Rail Transport car, G-10, came to symbolize the forced "relocation" of millions of people during the Nazi reign. Until recently, 1/35th scale rail stock has been nearly non-existent. Fortunately Libor of L.Z.Models has filled this void with an absolutely stunning rail car kit.
It is my full intention to approach this subject with the respect and reverence deserved. The scene is simple. A single rail car is parked on the rails, the side door is open and the occupants are gone. All that remains are the personal effects of the occupants - piles of clothing, suitcases. A lone prisoner, using a handcart, is tasked to collect the effects.
The cart was built from styrene....
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The figure was sculpted by a friend, Bruce Bowman, specifically for this occasion...
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Ok...Like I've mentioned earlier my focus is going to be upon the prisoner and the cart. But, I do need to set the stage, create a backdrop. I shaped these from plastic stock - the transformers are small glass beads on wire posts....
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The electrified fence posts will run along the rear of the scene, behind the train car....
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The wire fencing is Plastruct mesh that I've cut into length - leaving only a small "barb" of the cross pattern. Since these photos I've restrung the fencing to tighten, and straighten it up....The tracks are laid (Trumpeter) onto the base and good 'ole Scenic Express Ballast was glued in place....
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..........and with that we are all posted and caught up with my current work.
Thank you very much for enduring the long opening post.
Best,
Rick
Wow - you sure know how to make a big first impression.
That's some seriously nice work, Rick. Thanks for demonstrating your techniques.
Can't wait to see the next installment.
Good to see you here Rick. It's a fun and extremely talented group of people.
I've been following your build on the Mig forum. Very well done so far.
I am very impressed by this car and all that you put in its detailing and decoration, Rick. A great SBS too!
Welcome Rick, spectacular work :o - should be a real nice diorama!
Anders
Satisfactory ... so far. Nowhere did you state the scale of the diorama but something you posted near the end suggests it is 1:35. Is that correct? -- Russ
Nice initial entry, bud ;D - good to see you over here!
For those of you that don't know Rick, not only is he a disgustingly well rounded modeler, he isn't a half bad sort of guy either... Russ may eventually rate him as "tolerable". This is also Rick's first attempt at anything rail, just to add insult to injury...
Beautiful execution on Mr. goods wagon, there really is a ton of stuff going on underneath - making a multiple rail car scene a little intimidating :). I think you should go for the full three foot long set up...
Russ - you are correct, Libor's work is 1:35th
Welcome aboard! Excellent modeling and weathering! The peeled paint effect turned out remarkably well -- it can be quite tricky to get looking right without using hairspray, chipping, or rubber cement techniques.
I'm amazed at how much detail is on that box car kit.
Rick,
I have been following your build as a guest over on the MIG-Forum, and I have to admit that I was a bit freaked out about the topic when you first started posting this project. My concern was that no scale model can ever convey the horrors of the holocaust. Military modeling in general can be justified by an interest in military technology, but the Holocaust theme is very much a grey area.
However, once I saw the introduction of the cart and the excellent figure I realized that you are on the way to create an incredible piece of art there. Your attention to detail is amazing and the only thing that could make this project more shocking would to enlarge your diorama base to the size of a dinner table, all filled with personal belongings of the victims.
Christian
Hello all,
Thank you for your welcome to the forum and for your thoughtful comments.
Quote from: BKLN on September 14, 2011, 05:12:47 PM
Rick,
I have been following your build as a guest over on the MIG-Forum, and I have to admit that I was a bit freaked out about the topic when you first started posting this project. My concern was that no scale model can ever convey the horrors of the holocaust. However, once I saw the introduction of the cart and the excellent figure I realized that you are on the way to create an incredible piece of art there.
Christian
I had/have these same concerns, Christian.
Ok...now for one more quick ---- but Important Update.
Howdy Rick,
I guess you already know how much I love this project? ;)
Well guys, every once in a while, there´s a chance you really need to take. This is one of these instances.
As some of you might know, I´m german and when I´ve seen Ricks start on this project, I asked him if there is anything he needs. Somehow, being german, I really, really wanted to contribute to this project, even more since it meant working on something for Rick.
Rick asked me if I would like to paint the figure for this project and I agreed happily.
When I received Ricks copy of the figure I´ve seen that it was pretty nice, but I knew that I could (and should) improve it before painting.
So, with some files, my Proxxon with some Bullet shaped Silicon Polishers and Andrea Sculp, I began to work on the figure. This is one of the projects where I decided to put my whole heart into.
Well, this is the start on the figure.
First two pics are the figure as received (not cleaned up), second two pics are after I started working on it (still some work left, but I´m getting there).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F1.jpg&hash=63569c8d410ae201a20672e16158ac9b19ffd8c0)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F2.jpg&hash=afa4928fe4b4adf51670cbb2893f727c7f5615a4)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F6263343062353834.jpg&hash=1e01bf839ee7d7a0764d7c332fcd7012b12bf13b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F4.jpg&hash=96ac5953d4e42c6909dd8804d5f68271c201ecad)
I hope you like it this far and most importantly:
Thanks a lot Rick, for this unique chance!
Markus Lack When Markus asked to become involved I honestly didn't know what part of the project I could offer to him - I only knew that I wanted his involvement. Over time the project began to take shape and it became clear to me that Markus would be the perfect person to bring the focal point of our story to life. You can imagine my excitement when Markus graciously accepted the offer.
And so, after what seemed like a very long time in the mail a small box containing two copies of the figure finally arrived to Markus this past weekend. As you can see he has wasted little time getting started............
Thank you to all who are following this project.
Rick/Markus
Hi guys, a couple of things....
First, you may notice that I have changed the title of the piece to Burden of Sorrow. I've been struggling with the title since the beginning - maybe this one captures the piece better? Your thoughts.
Update time....
Doing some painting on the cart...and sculpting the clothing. For painting, I am purposefully trying to mute the colors by adding a touch of grey in order to create a somber atmosphere. The clothing itself is created using Appoxie Sculpt rolled into thin sheets and then cut and folded into shapes.
A little WIP shot ......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F100p.jpg&hash=6d826dc5b013a181ac841be2dd2b38aa51ac5e04)
A little further along in the process...........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi675.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv117%2FRickLawlerphotos%2FNever%2520Again%2F101p.jpg&hash=826b0a9c83625ed14417d055050f964eadaf6c7c)
Again, thanks for following along.
Rick
Excellen job Rick, couldn´t be better! After seeing a lot of "Dead Guys" at the Euromilitaire show this fits right in with my current taste ;D!
Anders
Beautiful work on the garments... I think that "sombre" catches it. The trunks have the right feel of time and if the layout of the items in the clothing is akin to the final, it gives a sense of passing or abandonment. I was thinking back to the Schindler's List use of the red coat as a gimmick, but I would worry that it comes off, well gimmicky :)
The much used cart looks like it was scarfed from some Lithuanian farm...
Beautiful job on the clothing. You've really made the hard castings look "soft".
This is going to be an impressive diorama.
Nicely done. I like the new title, too.
Really great to see you post this build and your techniques here. Your work is a wonderful addition to the forum.
Sorry for my lack of posts on this build (and your others) here and on MIG, but I have simply run out of superlatives....so I just enjoy watching.
Marc
Beautiful work. Should be a very impressive diorama.
Great how to. Thanks for all your postings.
Jerry
Thank you all, very much. Having the support and encouragement of such talented modelers means a great deal to me.
Best,
Rick
Rick,
please post some final pictures!
I have seen them in the MIG forum and I think that you did a terrific job on such a delicate topic. The holocaust theme is something incredibly difficult to address in general, but you managed handle it in a respectful and yet moving way! - Aside from your excellent model work, of course!
Please post some pictures.
I second Christian's comments.
Shame, At this point in time I cant see a single pic in this thread only this message . .
And that is why links to photos on other sites are a waste of time and space: You never know when someone will pull the image or close the site. If you want to post a photo, DO NOT post links. Download the photo to your computer and upload the photo here. Easy. It works. You'll be happy. -- Russ
http://ricklawler.plastic-garden.com/?p=2050
My apologies for the broken photo links. I have posted a recap of the work and the final photographs here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1754.0
Thanks,
Rick